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Check to see if those plugs are all on the same fuse. If they are, you could install a larger amp fuse there. Then use a smaller amp fuse on each leg. Kinda depends on what your installing and how much amp draw.
 

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i hooked my garmin gps directly to these plugs. and i was planning to hook my usb charging ports and led dome light directly too ( as in no relay ). am planning on installing a fuse for each plug in case of a short or any other issue that could take out all my plugs ( hate to lose my GPS while in the woods because of a short in my dome light. )
i would check my amp draw but my amp meter is for ac amps only.
i would assume i should have no issues with wiring that stuff without a relay??
those lead are intended as control wires and not to power higher current devices. Most Gamine GPS units are 1A or more (look at the rating of the socket adapter, even an 10 year old 4" garmin I use has a 1A PS. A relay is easy to add expecially when you have the control wire there.

One of them goes to a relay coil terminal.
The other coil teminal to ground
Power in on one of the other terminals (fuse that one at 10A or more) and the other goes to device loads. Even if you had them all off the same one.

Other wise you'd need a master switch to turn on items that you don't want to have ignition or accessory control. But you are still pulling power from the battery in that case and its fused as well from the batter.

Most meters have a DC current range and some have 10A range using a different input for the positive lead. I have a few like that. I can't say I have seen a meter with AC current range. rather i don't own one and very specialized. Check again.
 

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MassiveOverkill, on the accessory harness...is the brown wire the power wire and the black ground? Thanks for your help and thanks for this post!
That's correct and you're welcome!
 
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Please explain to me how to wire things to these plugs with a relay. I have not done a lot of dc wiring. Going to order the terminal fittings and rocker switches tomorrow. I would go from the rocker switch to a relay and then a fuse between the relay and pre wired plug?
 

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I cant explain it. All I know is use the plug as your power feed. If u disassemble the adapter you get power and ground.
 
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Please explain to me how to wire things to these plugs with a relay. I have not done a lot of dc wiring. Going to order the terminal fittings and rocker switches tomorrow. I would go from the rocker switch to a relay and then a fuse between the relay and pre wired plug?
I would wire it so the switch gets power from the prewired plug and feeds the control side of the relay then run a fused power wire to the relay that would feed your accessory most relays hve the terminals labelled with the same pin numbers so by the numbers I would wire it the following way.

pin 85 ground to chassis or battery negative
Pin 86 power from switch
Pin 87 fused Battery Positive
Pin 30 accessory to be powered
Pin 87A optional if powering a device that could create an electrical surge like an electro-magnet for an electric clutch ground this terminal to prevent electrical spike from coil getting back to your PCM


I have a continuous duty solenoid wired to one of these wire taps that powers up a fuse block that I have all my extra accessories wired too When the key is off everything is dead no parasitic power drains on my battery and the added fuse panel gives me room to expand without worrying about overloading the wiring to the accessory plug. the factory wiring is plenty light and wont stand up to high amp loads so problem solved. I'll try to post pictures tomorrow.
 

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fuse block.jpg
Added fuse block
relays.jpg
mounted relays for my cooling fan bypass and Led cube lights on the roof
relays.jpg
continuous duty solenoid (heavy duty relay) Feeds all add accessories and fuse block only activates with ignition on and that helps prevent unwanted battery drain.
 

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If your doing relays you don't need anything from factory wiring. Unless you don't care about ever using them with the key off and you want it all going off with the key then you would I guess.


Some things like wireless winch remote power lead needs to go off with the key though we know. But radio, lights and many accessories you want to add you may want to be able to fire up without the ignition being turned on.

You need to power the relays with their own direct line to battery. There is your switch power or relay coil power just fuse it down.

What I like to do is to feed the relay coil hot on one side on a small fuse(fed from relays main power lead)and then use the switches to bring the negative to the relays to negative side of the coils that energize them. That way if anything ever goes to ground nothing happens except something stays on and lets you know what is shorted but doesn't blow any fuses.

If you have a relay you don't need a control wire from the harness. You can take the power for the switch(s) right off your power for the relay and come back from the switch with your "control" wire or one that actually energizes the relays coil.

Or with switches feeding the hot sides of relay coils and the other stays grounded to negative.
Why add anything to the system if adding new power from battery to relay for the accessories. You tap that and put a small 5 amp fuse to power the switch and come back out of switch and feed coil of relay. I mean unless you want them to all go off with the key which is not so good having to have the ignition on to run anything.

Might have repeated myself. Good at that.

Something like this. Master switch is optional but good idea. You leave it off like the ignition when your not using it but at least you can run things if you want with out the ignition having to be on. Just good to know everything is off with the master so you don't have any risk of draining your battery. This is the switch system wiring for them only having negative grounded current on them. Never a risk of shorting out anything.

If you want your switches lighted check and see because you may have to use them as the positives feeds to relays so there is power for integral lights if they have separate neg and pos for lighting no problem. Just feed them positive off light switch relay or if you don't mind them lit always then the ignition.

Just a rough sketch and of course so many variations possible. Most will want to feed the mains to each relay from a separate fuse. I didn't draw that in but usually what you would do.

 

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There are a lot of switch panels available and most quality switches are rated at 15A. I doubt anyone is using a single item which is more, if so why I'd say. You have a stator charging system which is very limited in its current output.

You can use ONE 30A/40A relay. I bought 3 in case I needed them for my options but not so far. All you need its to power that one relay with the accessory wire of the lighter socket which is on with the key, the relay is energized and power can flow to the hot terminal of all the switches. Then you turn on the accessories you want via the switches in the switch bank. Whatever is on will go off when the vehicle is turned off. I have a master always on circuit of 30A source main fuse and powers my backup lights, 12V socket and USB charger ports. (a master switch kills this circuit whenever I want). I can have my backup lights on for a variety of reasons including lighting the rear storage area or area behind me without the key!!! 12V socket accessory and USB charger works anytime. I have a light bar yellow light which came with its own harness and switch and must have ignition on to pull the relay on when it activated.

Simplicity is key and more than two relays would be the max anyone can or should use. 60A is way too much for the system to power and you'd better have booster pack to start if you kill the ignition due to voltage drop.
 

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Dependability and simplicity is the reason you use relays to switch loads.
Less heavy wire to run. Relays much more dependable at switching loads than most swiches.

What would this guy be doing. Lol.
https://www.wolverineforums.com/#/topics/27396

To each his own. Agreed low draw items seems a bit much to use a relay but relays are cheap and does make a nice system to just fuse half a dozen of them with a small multi fuse block. Then you only need some little 16 gauge on a small 5 amp fuse is all you need going to your switch bank and your devices get full voltage from short runs and less losses through switch that gets water in them and contacts corrode. Relays are better sealed and switch is still needed but just turning on tiny milli amp draw load of relay coil.


You should see how many relays are factory on a YXZ. It's so the switches last and can be small ones.
 

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I've used Concours relay/fuse blocks on pickups in the past. They really simplify and keep fuses and relays all in one spot. Any reason one of these wouldn't work for adding circuits on the Wolverine? I only need one for dome lights and one for rock lights but the bigger one would be cool for future add-ons.

https://www.teamconcours.com/?page_id=116#!/Universal-Waterproof-Fuse-Relay-Box/p/59328159/category=13963121

https://www.teamconcours.com/?page_id=116#!/Universal-Heavy-Duty-Waterproof-Fuse-Relay-Box-Panel-Car-Truck-ATV-UTV-4X4-Boat/p/65063093

Oh, how do you access the switch panel in the dash?

Thanks.

Hells Bells! You guys probably know all about Concours (I'm new to Wolverine). After cruising the site I find all kinds of goodies for our Xs.

https://www.teamconcours.com/?page_id=116#!/Backlit-Yamaha-Wolverine-Switch-Panel-With-6-Carling-Switches/p/78656109/category=13963090

Makes me want to add all kinds of goodies.. $$$$
 
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I found the 5 plug harness behind the battery compartment plate which is powered by the 20 amp ACC fuse. I ordered the pins to make the connection for my Garmen GPS harness. I love this forum!
 

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In the majority of cases you don't need more than one or two relays for options as Daniel above has said for high powered device it makes sense. How many you'd have varies. I for one only use one currently for one light bar and the harness that came with it. Anything thats 7 or 8A can easily be controlled by a switch with gets it power via a HD relay implemented to trigger on with the ignition. This is so they also go off when off when you shutoff the machine!!

Power to the relay in is to come from the battery + terminal or if a winch is installed the +ve terminal there which is always hot (no acid issue and wire clustering at the battery). I don't know how the gen 2 wires are switched, if by an oem installed relay or through the key switch contacts. If the latter I'd only use them to power the relay coils for devices. No high current at all.

Thats just me anyway, oh and the feed to the relay(s) from the +ve source need an appropriate buss fuse. Eg 30A or 40A if available
 

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I brought these pigtail for my 2020 X2 XTR i though i read some were that the pigtail harness on the machine was positive and negative but when i put my meter on the pigtail i get both leads as positive were is everybody picking up the negative a little confusing and are those pigtails fused any info would help
thanks
 

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I brought these pigtail for my 2020 X2 XTR i though i read some were that the pigtail harness on the machine was positive and negative but when i put my meter on the pigtail i get both leads as positive were is everybody picking up the negative a little confusing and are those pigtails fused any info would help
thanks
Did you disassemble it? You have to do that in order to separate the wires.
15928768403814072707368813423052_1592876857913.jpg
 

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No i thought they were plug and play so they have to be separated but when you put a meter on the machine side they are both positive coming out of the factory plug where is the negative side.If there is a wiring diagram i would appreciate it
Thanks KDT
 

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They only plug in one way. Red is positive black is negative. I have had no issues using these to power relays for lights and such.
 

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No i thought they were plug and play so they have to be separated but when you put a meter on the machine side they are both positive coming out of the factory plug where is the negative side.If there is a wiring diagram i would appreciate it
Thanks KDT
He is just saying the series tap has no accessible negative run out of it like it should.

If you need red most the time nice to get a black to go with it too. He is just showing you have to open it up to get at the blacks.

They should have ran 2 reds and 2 blacks out of it to begin with.
 

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I was going to start a new thread but figured it would be more appropriate to add to this one.

All Yamaha's have a blank connector to keep dirt out of the additional accessory plug. Now if you have an older model, it may make sense to buy the splitter part but us X4 owners have plenty of plugs already (there are at least 6):



You can take that blank plug and buy the pins necessary to convert it to a harness. The male connector (plastic part) uses female pins and the female connector uses male pins (I know pretty confusing). The blanks are FEmale, so we need male pins.

You can get them here, which also has option for 2 different wire gauge sizes:

Male https://www.corsa-technic.com/item.php?item_id=227 (these are what you need for the blanks already provided)

You could also just Google Sumitomo p/n 1500-0105 (male).

Don't forget to order seals as well: https://www.corsa-technic.com/item.php?item_id=351

For under 10 bucks you could get the pin connectors for all your accessory plugs

UPDATE: Received my parts from Corsa. I had ordered the wrong pins (female) and they exchanged them for the male pins as well as combined my shipping

On the right you can see the blank plug which requires male pins:



I ordered two wire gauge sizes:



Simple to crimp on, make sure you bend over the tabs closest to the end as well or the pin won't engage the locking tab:



Ready to go, I only needed the positive lead:



If you're doing reverse lights you'll need the female sockets:

https://www.corsa-technic.com/item.php?item_id=226&category_id=111

I’ve got a question for you or anyone that knows. I went ahead and order those pins you mentioned so I can tap into the factory accessory plug to trigger the relay. I went with the nilight wiring harness with 5 pin rocker. Based on the wiring diagram, would I run the Positive wire from the factory plug to the white connector circled in yellow? Or would I disregard the two white wires and bring the positive straight into the terminal circled in blue? I am wanting key on power to the switch. Thanks.
 

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