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Discussion Starter #141 (Edited)
Pic after the first lube change in the Primary Sheave and before fixing the Cam Plate.
Once the lube leveled out, it was below the Cam plate edges.
The roller wear/scalping is more aggressive after only 40 miles.

It's hard to see in the pic, but at 12, 1:30 & 3 o'clock, I could easily see fine particles on the edge from the rollers weights jacket. It's like a sharpie line of jacket material.
Having the operating lube level above the cam plate edge appears to have less wear even with a bad edge.

Even after fixing my Cam Plate, I decided to raise the operating lube level for the reason I stated in another post above and from this finding.
The recommended amount was 3/4 of a tablespoon per section.
1st lube I used 1 tablespoon exactly per section.
2nd lube I applied the 1 tablespoon to the sheave area and a heavy 1/4" all around the roller weight.
I would estimate that I am between 1-1/4 - 1-1/2 tablespoon per roller section.

This is just where I am running mine at the moment and the reason why.
To date, everything is running great without any issues.
The amount you choose to use is up to you.

Pic of heavier scalping after 40 miles.
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1stTinkRunWeight.jpg
 
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Discussion Starter #143
How are the new HV weights working for you?
Better than sliced bread brother :D
I could definitely tell the difference. A must do IMHO.
 

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Discussion Starter #144 (Edited)
Hell, just look at all this awesome goodness....lol.

117910549_4151265434948927_8361566292109862880_n.jpg

Edit: Gotta add link for everyone.
https://www.hunterworks.com/inc/sdetail/123661/34145

I should've gotten pics when I swapped out the 20g for the 18g during testing runs.
They were so slick I about dropped them.
Yamaha can shove those jacketed junk things where the sun doesn't shine....lol.
 
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Discussion Starter #145
Since my tires were 28-1/2 and tire/wheel weighed 50 lbs each, I liked the 18g.
Feels like the belt squeeze put me in the right RPM range of the motors powerband zone.

I can see now that I need to improve gearing for the added bonuses.
 

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I recently opened up my clutch housing and found a mouse had chewed my belt. So while I was in there I pulled the primary and found that the Ultramatic lube had turned into a hard rubbery buildup and was restricting the motion of my clutch outward. So I cleaned it out and rebuilt it using high temperature wheel bearing grease. I figured that some guys are running dry and some guys insist on Ultramatic Lube or now Tinkseal. I figured I'm somewhere in the middle of that spectrum. I put on over a 100 miles last weekend and it shifts great and doesn't seem to have any issues.
 

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It will work for awhile with wheel bearing grease and then it will freeze up. You really need a thin grease in the range of 1.0. Tinkseal is superior because it lowers the friction of the sliding weights and allows them to react faster to clutch changes.
 

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Discussion Starter #148
Email notifications, Yamaha Ultramatic grease orders have been pushed out another 3 weeks.
Same routine that's been going on for months. About a week before they say the order is due, it gets pushed out again, repeat.

I don't care now, mines done :p
 

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I bet you can cancel those orders and get a refund.
 
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Discussion Starter #150 (Edited)
Yep I should call. I had a couple buyers, I'll just have to let them know.
If you ever order anything from Boats . net, they hold you're entire order until all parts are in. I need to call and raise a little hell.
Also don't use a knife to open boxes from Babbitt's. I have gotten several items from them and they were packed in the lid folds, not inside the box.
It's a wonder I didn't cut my O-rings, seals, etc.
 

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I sell the X4, I'll have a tub of the grease and tube of the other that Yamaha recommends depending what kind of tranny is in the RMAX.
 

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Discussion Starter #152
2 of 3 orders were cancelled. Mom&Pop shop was quick, Boats was a 15 min wait, but I'm 200+ in que on Partzilla.
Partz did sit on some parts of my order, but did ship most items much later. They must've gotten a lot of complaints as now they ship what's on hand right away.
 
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Dang I know I'm late but just bought some. Over $30 freakin dollars and I used about a dollars worth, there is a lot in a tub.
 

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Discussion Starter #154 (Edited)
Adding pics to this thread also.

"Well I told you guys I'm a lube nut so I had to get my hands on what Yamaha recommends just to see it and compare.
This is not what Yamaha used on the Secondary Sheave Assembly.
Pic of the outside of the Secondary and pic of the grease I removed from inside of the Fixed half."

2ndaryPins.jpg

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Grease from inside the Fixed Secondary Sheave.

AsFoundGrease.jpg

Pic of the Bel-Ray Assembly Lube
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118098177_4136781236397347_1117312558286682815_o.jpg


Most moly grease/lubes seem to average 3% - 10% moly.
"Molybdenum disulfide (Moly) is a solid additive, most commonly used in extreme pressure applications."

The Bel-Ray Assembly Lube wasn't all that easy to get. I ordered from several sites on-line only to get a cancel notice a few days later.
In searching for more information, I didn't see it listed on the Bel-Ray site with a pdf file or data sheet.
I finally found a race shop in California that had it and when talking with the shop, he said they use it in their race cars CV's.
IIRC he mentioned that it contained 40% moly, but I could not find information to verify.

I compared it to a High Temp Moly that I have on hand (TRC #2) and the Bel-Ray does seem much 'thicker'.
It's as thick as some of the higher moly anti-siezes that I have. Which is to thick IMHO.

Anyway, as you can see from the pics, that's not what Yamaha used so I don't know why they even mention it.
Being a lube nut, I'm glad they did as I have a high moly lube in my arsenal now to play with :D
I have been using the Bel-Ray Assembly lube mixed w/ Tinkseal on other applications around the shop.
 

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Discussion Starter #155 (Edited)
~Updated.
I opened the new primary housing bearing today to pack it with grease before storing.
It's item #14 and the new part #
Bearing 93306-00426-00 $25.99
2019 Yamaha WOLVERINE X2 R-SPEC (YXE85WPSKB) Crankcase Cover 1 | Babbitts Yamaha Partshouse

One side was marked koyo Japan 6004, other side is just HS.
~Update: The old OEM says the same, but doesn't have HS or any other markings on the backside.

It only had shipping oil, so I flushed and packed with my grease mixture.
That little sucker took more grease than I thought it would.

I packed it with a mix of Krytox GPL-225 & Tinkseal.
I hope Tinkseal is compatible w/ PFPE oils; PTFE with sodium nitrite additive.
GPL-225 was $500 for a 17 oz jar and I had it hidden from the kids. I forgot all about it until I got the Tinkseal and was looking for other white lubes to compare it too.

Anyhow, the lube mix felt pretty good and it rolls a lot better. Packing/preservative oils are just that and I like to remove them and pack my own mix.
After bearing is clean, don't freakin' spin it. It greatly shortens the bearings life and is a dumb apprentice move....lol.
Don't forget to grab a new seal also to have in case you damage the old during removal. Item #15- Oil Seal 93102-20371-00 $7.49

Gotta have pics, so here is what the old housing bearing looked like at 2600 miles.
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SupBear2.jpg

Pic of Old bearing cleaned up. You can see the seal wasn't installed properly.
Seal lip is deformed and seal spring is shot.

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SupBearCleaned.jpg

Cleaned and packed with Tinkseal.
So far so good and the ringing tin noise has disappeared, so that's a indicator to listen for.
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117715005_4118530504889087_4332348034089675697_n.jpg


EDIT: Adding pic of seal from Service manual. Don't forget to pack the seal also.
I used tinkseal again here, but a mix of your favorite bearing grease mixed w/ Tinkseal is good also.
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CageSeal.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #157
Update on Ultramatic grease from Partzilla.
They now say Jan 14th.
I'm not holding my breath as they usually extend delivery in 30 day increments every month and are now down to 14 days....lol
Good thing I didn't wait.
I'm not concerned as I have Tinkseal on hand. ;)
Hunterworks supplies for X2/X4
 
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If anyone is still looking, my local dealer had like 3 tubs on the shelf. Sioux City yamaha.

Are you running tink seal in your primary? I used tink seal in my secondary but wasn't sure how it would do in the primary, it seems kind of thin.
 

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Discussion Starter #159 (Edited)
I have been running straight Tinkseal in both, primary & secondary.
It's about as thick as a NLGI # 1 type grease/lube which is great especially for cold weather running and it ran great all summer also.
I have been mixing it with other lubes for different projects too. A 50/50 mix with Bel-Ray (40% moly) and it's my go to anti-seize.

I have a jar mixed 50/50 Tinkseal/Mobile CM-W (NLGI # 1) that I'm liking and may try on my next primary service. It's the peach colored jar.
I may even try my Moly Mix on the secondary also, it's pretty impressive once mixed with Tinkseal.
Down to 2 jars of straight Tinkseal, so I'll probably grab more when I get my sheave. I like it that much....lol.
Save your empty jars for your mixes :)
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90925



If anyone is still looking, my local dealer had like 3 tubs on the shelf. Sioux City yamaha.

Are you running tink seal in your primary? I used tink seal in my secondary but wasn't sure how it would do in the primary, it seems kind of thin.
 

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I would never "dare" to mix different greases, I don't know what I'm doing. Out of curiosity why do you do this? Are you making something better or making the expensive Tink Seal go further? I'm serious, thanks.
 
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