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Discussion Starter #1
I have 3 different orders for Yamalube Ultramatic grease that keep getting pushed out every week.
By the end of Summer I will be Grease rich.....lol

What's everyone using for a alternative grease in the primary sheave?
 

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I read on the Yamaha Grizzly forum that a good quality wheel bearing grease will work just fine. I have not tried it, I was lucky my dealer had the ultramatic grease in stock last month when I needed it. I was also told by Arnie Cooper of "Coop45" who sells machined sheaves that to only use the Ultramatic grease. So if you need to get it done I would say try the bearing grease and when you get your back-ordered grease take it apart again and redo it, and you can then inspect how well the bearing grease worked.
 

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To supplement the Viking thought...if you are going to do that two options: boat trailer bearing grease is water-resistant. Moly sulfide grease has additives to make it cling better to the surface and was original developed for higher heat resistance for less sling-off, albeit a little harder to clean off.
Edit: I remember that the moly greases were developed back in the day for disc brake bearings and CVs as the heat was killing the available grease of the day. But I think the NLGI 2 rating will be OK and most grease for bearings meet that these days.
 

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It's crazy that you just posted this. I spent hours on this very subject and found a few things, but not enough to make me jump. You want something that will stay put and will handle high heat. Apparently the Ultramatic grease was specifically developed for the Yamaha CVT. I never found anything that said here's a great alternative. I bet you didn't either, hence the post.

I tried Amazon, Rocky Mountain, lots of places and they all said no stock. So I bought a tub of Ultramatic at www.yamahapartshouse.com on 8/4 and it still shows as not shipped. Was that a place you tried and didn't get it?
 
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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Partzilla, Boats & Mom&Pop shop online.
Just got a email this morning saying it's been pushed back again to Aug 31st from Partzilla and Boats. No word on the Mom/Pop shop yet, but last I heard was Aug 17th and that was the same date the others said too.
I ordered it a while ago, just keeps getting pushed out.

Edit: Boats order was July 2nd. Partzilla was Aug 3rd. Mom/Pop July 15th
Apparently Boats waits to ship until all items are in. They have my weights, but are sitting on them.
 

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Ultramatic grease is closer to NLGI 1.0. We have a couple of people testing Tinkseal as a replacement for Ultramatic grease. TinkSeal has an extremely low coefficient of friction and remains slippery even if it dries. TinkSeal is a food grade grease, so it won't attack plastics like other greases.
 

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Don't forget that additionally, at least on Gen 1, the manual calls for the Poly-Urea grease for the primary shaft and the secondary shaft and collar .
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Here is what the X machine service manual calls for and quantities.
I'm going Tinkseal
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PrimaryLube1.jpg
SecondaryLube.jpg
SecondaryLube2.jpg
1stSheave.jpg
PrimaryLube2.jpg
 

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Polyurea grease is designed for high speed electric motors. Yamaha decided to go with this grease because it resists drying. However polyurea grease still does dry out and the lack of lubrication compounds the wear on your cvt sheave wipe seals. I have seen Rhino sheaves seized on the collar and worn seals that allow grease to merge with the belt area.

This was why I designed Tinkseal. When Tinkseal drys, it leaves nano-particles behind to continue lubricating dry. Tinkseal also keeps the wipe seals from wearing by building on both the rubber surface as well as the steel. You do not need a "fancy" wipe seal machined grove on your sheave, Tinkseal will not migrate under the seal into the belt area. :thinkerg:
 

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Tink Seal on the primary rollers? Please confirm.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yes I'm going to test Tinkseal.
I've got 2500+ miles on the car and I'm tired of waiting on grease & parts. I need to get in there and clean/inspect for peace of mind, it's driving me crazy....lol.
Part suppliers are sitting on my weights that I wanted to test (OEM 16 & 18g) so I'm thinking of pulling the trigger on HV weights also.
 
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Very interesting as I search quite a bit a month back and before for a substitute. Ultramatic is not available for some reason online etc and any obscure hits put it around $52 CND.

I am waiting to get approval on m engine oil burning TSB repair. Dealer has tested and said yes to Yamaha the need the kit. Yamaha it holding out, no reply as of yet.

The dealer says its about a 3hr service charge to do the CVT service (maybe they're doing both primary & secondary, if so I'd be ok) so its going to cost $$$ but I won't have to do it again for a long time as its ~ 7000km now.
 

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3hrs... LMFAO. ... Is it the Techs first day on the job ? :lmao:
 

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Tink Seal on the primary rollers? Please confirm.
Can I get another opinion on this? Can’t find Ultramatic grease.
 

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3hrs... LMFAO. ... Is it the Techs first day on the job ? :lmao:
Nope, long established dealer!!! I seem long to me having done a cleanout on my Kingquad years ago. Dust only as not grease is used. It takes me a while. but I don't work by the hour and don't want to make a mistake!!
 

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They dont call them stealerships for nothing.... hahahahahaha
 

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It's probably book shop rates. Which may include the removal of carrier and covers. Maybe get them to adjust at least a half hour off their quote. If they say they already have, ask them to show you the shop rate quote book to verify. Or call another dealer. Might even verify with another dealer first so you can deal with it in one call.
Keep in mind that Shop rates are established as a fixed number as to what you will pay but the mechanic can do quicker to make more money. Typically Mechanic gets a fixed amount so he can have several projects going at same time waiting for things to dry or parts to come in, etc. Many senior mechanics can paid 50 to 70 hours hours in a 40 hour week.
 

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I have been in mine twice (X2 not Gen 1) and I would not bet I could do it a third time in three hours or less. It’s not a race, it’s a labor of love, but to me three book hours for primary and secondary is about right. Takes me an hour to get ready to pull off the primary. Not sure how many plastics have to come off on a Gen 1.
 

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I thought is the rollers and sheave done which is the primary and not the one with the HD compress spring that was coming apart and cleaning, greasing.
 
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