[TINKEN]

Just to clarify, these are stock Yamaha OEM roller weights, not HV weights.

Went back in, had it on the bench time: 1 smoke & half cup coffee.....lol.


The roller weights are rolling. They roll out into the grease bed and around. All weights have grease, but only halfway around, but I don't think the grease on the weights touches the cam plate or the sheave.
Take the length of travel compared to the circumference of the weight and you'll see what I mean.
That is the flat spot at the end of the grease path, it looks worse than before and there is fine rubber at the end of the Cam Plate <<<<
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View attachment 86314

 

[SKELLEY521]

Yes these are OEM weights.
It's hard to get pics, I tried in the sunlight and shade. Here are the worse 2 the 3rd weight is barely noticeable in hand.
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[SKELLEY521]

Mail toady and perfect timing.
HV weights are pretty freakin sweat, you'll understand once you get them in hand.
Link..
https://www.hunterworks.com/inc/sdetail/123661/34145
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Pic of HV vs OEM
Night and day difference.
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[TINKEN]

Yes, those are Yamaha Chinese oem injection molded weights. The flat spots don't really harm anything, except that those plastic covers are like 1mm thin and when they wear through, they will come apart and most likely lock up the sheave. Yamaha doesn't care, they want you to spend thousands of dollars in parts.

HV weights are solid billets of a much harder and durable material, will not come apart. I do laugh how all the Chinese weights are now black in color, even the dr pulley weights. As hard as they try to copy HV material, they cannot. It has international patents on its material.

 

[SKELLEY521]

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I'm not playing with this cam plate, it's going to get mirror edge.....lol.
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[TINKEN]

You need some coffee to go with your powdered doughnuts.

I use similar absorbent matting you have there. I buy mine from Uline in a big roll. Soaks up oil, water, fuel, anything.

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View attachment 86322

 

[SKELLEY521]

Yes those doughnuts are sweet, now I gotta make the serving plate to match......lol

 

[SKELLEY521]

Using the black Arkansas hone, so thought I would throw out a pro tip.
Use what you want to hone with, but I don't like oil
I prefer a degreaser like simple green or a citrus degreaser and keep the surface wet.
Oil will soak in the hone and take particles with it that plug up the hone making uneven honing.

But hey, use whatever floats your boat....lol

 

[SKELLEY521]

Ok filed to shape, not easy to get true as the edge is cupped and irregular from being stamped, so just focused on a smooth radius edge.
Filed, sanded, honed and polished. It's so smooth it won't cut cool whip on a birthday cake....lol.
I'd spend more time on it, but have other things to do and she's plenty good enough anyway.
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[SKELLEY521]

Hmmm, see 1 spot I want to get....brb....lol

 

[SKELLEY521]

Ok, she's all good to go.
Started adding Tinkseal to HV weights before I wiped most of the heavy off the sides so I just kept going.
Before adding the cam plate I did remove most of the old tinkseal, I have another job for that lube.
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I have polished Cam running it Tinkseal so all you stock sheave X2's better bring your title if you want to race.
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Pic before I cleaned the existing Tinkseal and put in another jar.
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[SKELLEY521]

Primary is assembled.
Figured that since I was this far, what's 2 more nuts....lol.
Everything in the secondary is looking good, even the spring cup.
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[Paul65]

Nice write up. Good info, thanks for sharing.

 

[SKELLEY521]

Thanks Paul, If you go back and look at the pic of the primary, the tinkseal level looks a little low as there is a gap at the cam plate.
I added more than the Yamaha recommended amount and now it's just flush or slightly above and I will test it there.
I'm thinking it needs to be at the cam plate level or slightly above to help seal.
The old grease was a lot higher so it should be fine.

As found old.
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As found 1st Tinkseal fill.
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[TINKEN]

Before adding the cam plate I did remove most of the old tinkseal, I have another job for that lube.
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Pic before I cleaned the existing Tinkseal and put in another jar

Euw... Reusing Tinkseal is like reusing toilet paper... :yuck:

 

[SKELLEY521]

Right, but the debris in it made it the same color as my garage door tracks, color match.....lol

 

[SKELLEY521]

This pic brought back memories of when I was inspecting/modifying/installing/repairing the assembly line in a Honda Auto plant.
During outages they would fly a lot of Engineers in and a few translators.
When I found a issue and showed the Engineer, he would tell me how he wanted me to correct it.
Their English is not so good to say the least, but both of us would get a good laugh trying to decipher what the other was saying.....lol.

Anyhow, the station that produces this Cam Plate needs inspected at the very least.
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[SKELLEY521]

During my first service of the CVT. I wasn't very happy to discover some scaring of the shaft components.
Yes I went over the recommended mileage, but that was due largely to not being able to get parts & supplies.
Original pic.
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30yrs as a Union Millwright, I know a good bit about machinery shafts, bearings and bearing surfaces.
-pic of me bluing journal for bearing contact patch and hand scraping of bearing.
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I want to mention a few things about this picture <<<<
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At first glance it doesn't look pretty, but let me tell you what I discovered.
-The discoloration is due to reuse of old seals allowing debris to enter.
-The bearing surfaces at both ends are showing reflections of the backside given the camera angle.
-Removal of the Tinkseal: it had debris but was very supple and slick as the day I applied it.

Upon further inspection, I was excited at what I found.
I don't know what ingredients are in Tinkseal, but the old shaft scares are filled in and a super slick film is all around the bearing surface.
This is what gave the bearing surface the mirror finish that allowed for it to give such a good reflection.
The pic is deceiving, but once I got it out in sunlight and rolled it around looking hard at it, was when I had that 'well I'll be damned' moment....lol

Final thoughts: There isn't any grease in my honest opinion that would be capable of producing the results that I discovered.
I highly recommend Tinkseal and I will be using it for this application and many others.

Link to Tinkseal product for a description and purchase
https://www.hunterworks.com/inc/sdetail/123661/104960
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[SKELLEY521]

The reason I think the grease level needs to be at least flush or slightly higher than the ends of the Cam Plate is to help keep a clean path for the roller weights.
As the Movable sheave cycles in/out, air will equalize inside. I forget the name of this Law atm, but you know what I'm talking about.
Air will take the path of least resistance and will enter into the roller weights path bringing debris with it.

Maybe the 90g that Yamaha recommends, given the convex shape of the grease cover and air flow path/pressures inside the CVT housing is enough to prevent this from happening, but as you see in my original as found pics, there's a lot more grease and it worked without issues for 2600 miles.

I think air enters the Cam Plate breather holes (which are not in line w/ the weights) and the air flows/pressures inside the movable keep any debris out close to the cam plate.
I am basing my theory on what I discovered during the CVT service. It would be nice to discuss this with a Yamaha Engineer.

Anyhow, like I said, the Primary worked good with the amount of grease it had originally, so why not keep the operating grease level there.

I've been into the CVT 4 times now and I like to verify the grease level by cycling the CVT and looking inside the Primary to ensure the grease is at least flush or slightly higher.
I go the extra step of installing the bearing support cage as I don't like how the shaft oscillates at higher rpm's. If the Primary needs more grease, I'll remove it and add lube to each roller section.
Once I get the grease amount dialed in, I can eliminate the extra step of removing to add, but I will still continue to verify grease level this way before finishing installing the cover.

Just something to think about and it would be interesting to hear some ideas/opinions/discovery's, but by all means, do it however works best for you.

 

[SKELLEY521]

Going back looking at pics, I should've listened to what the wear patterns were trying to tell me.

First, when you disassemble the primary movable sheave, take your time and lay everything out relative to it's position in case you discover a issue you will know exactly where to look.
Looking at the hour glass shape wear on the roller weights shows how the bevel on the cam plate was causing the pattern. The bevel is less sharp and the wear was lighter.
It appears to be more of a pinch scrape than a cut, but still shows a issue. Then further out from the pinch line is the more aggressive cut zone.

I used a 8x2x1" hone on it's 1" side, as it fits nicely in the roller path, and made the bevel edge a smooth transition.
Now the sharp edges can take a lot of work and finesse , so be prepared to spend some time if you need to.
Just something to keep in mind. I also want to note that you may not have any issues w/ your cam plate, but it's worth a look since you have it out.
Pic...
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