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The secondary also requires service. It has pins that ride in ramps with grease to enable the secondary to move. Here is my X2 but yours is similar.

 
The pin holes elongated or worn out? Also the spring cup does it have any gouging? Measure the thickness please on the new one vs old.
 
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Sorry, that picture is from the last time I went in. Everything looked good so I turned the cup and put it back together.

I have the new metal spring cup but no Ultramatic grease. Can’t find it in stock anywhere. I know to use Tink Seal on the secondary and on the inner sleeve of the primary. But I’m having the belt bark issue so I don’t want to go in to change the secondary spring cup until I have grease and rollers for grease in the primary.

Can I use Tink Seal in the primary rollers instead of Ultramatic? I would need to order it from Hunterworks so more delays. I only have the 1 oz. that came with the sheave.
 
I don't see why you can't use tinkseal on your primary roller weights. If I had issues with belt bark that's what I would be using.
 
Well I'll be the tester (though I heard there were others other than SKELLEY521 who said he would) and run Tink Seal in my Hunterworks primary with Dr. Pulley 18 gram weights. I ordered 8 oz from Hunterworks and they usually ship fast so if all goes well this will be my next Sunday project. I know you guys are wanting more info on the new metal secondary spring cup.
 
Well I'll be the tester (though I heard there were others other than SKELLEY521 who said he would) and run Tink Seal in my Hunterworks primary with Dr. Pulley 18 gram weights. I ordered 8 oz from Hunterworks and they usually ship fast so if all goes well this will be my next Sunday project. I know you guys are wanting more info on the new metal secondary spring cup.
You will only need about 3.4 ounces of TinkSeal in your primary. TinkSeal is sold by weight and though marked 4 ounces, often contain as much as 5 ounces per tub.
 
I am not testing TinkSeal as an alternative to Yamaha’s Ultramatic grease. I am designing a product that will be superior replacement. I have no doubt TinkSeal will perform beautifully in Yamaha’s Ultramatic CVT systems. I am testing TinkSeal in order to get the viscosity and consistency correct.

Once I get the composition correct, it won’t matter if you are using TinkSeal with HV, Yamaha OEM or DrPulley Round/OD weights. It will just work. TinkSeal contains 7 different nano particles, two lubricants that work on a molecular level, one of them is thermally conductive and is used in the microprocessor industry.

Hunterworks sells it for $23. It’s not a 50 dollar tub you have to keep on your shelf to use only for that one thing. TinkSeal has multiple uses from CVT’s to Firearms. It’s a really great product.
 
Started the CVT service today.

Removed most of the plastics, probably more than needed but it's easy enough.
As much as I've buried this car in the mud, I'm amazed the housing is clean. I will grease that joint going back.

I don't know how far I will get today as I'm missing my deep well 27mm from the rack and my deep well 1-1/16" is busted. Amazon is dropping new sockets in a day or two now. ;)
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Pics of the support bearing. After inspecting the bearing, it appeared that the grease had broke down and a thick burnt oil film was laying in the bottom.

I checked the service manual to see what Yamaha used. Looks like oil and LS grease. It looks horrid to me as a Millwright and I'll be packing that with Tinkseal also.
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Cleaned seal & bearing. I pulled seal w/ seal puller. Planned on replacing the seal, but after cleaning the bearing, I don't like how it sounds so I will be replacing it if it's in stock.

I don't think the seal was installed properly. You can see in the pic where I pulled the seal (small dent past 3 o'clock), but the inner seal lip is deformed as is the spring.

Order placed @ Babbitts, so we'll see.
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I was going to start another thread, but I'm going to keep posting pics in here.
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Pulled Secondary.

I used recommended size jack bolts. Just note that they don't bottom out. $8.94 per pack of 50. I reused the same 2 bolts, but after about the 3rd time in, they were starting to gall even when anti seized. So doesn't hurt to have extra handy.

https://www.mcmaster.com/91280A344/
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I don't know that Yamaha used Bel-Ray Assembly lube. High Moly lubes that I have on hand are dark gray or black. This grease is orangish yellow on the inside of the sheave. Looks like crap on the sheave.
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Check out the clumps of grease around the pin, they are actually hardened clumps.
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>Secondary Shaft<<
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Babbitt's sent new O-rings, but seals are on back order. I'll replace the O-rings and the seals still feel good for now and they wiped oil when I checked them so gonna reuse this time.
I have a good bit of cleaning to do now... lol


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Discussion starter · #33 · (Edited)
I still have more cleaning, Q-tips a must, but Mic'd up some numbers for future reference.
These measurement will change with wear, but I wanted "As Found" readings.
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Used Starrett ball gauges to get hole size and see how much hole has elongated
Pins fit tight. Hole feels slightly tapered. So like most men, I just went ball deep. :p
Axial .198"
Radial .202"


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Pins heads all measured the same.
.354"
Pins Bodies feel tapered, but all mic'd same
.195"-.197" from bottom of pin to top accordingly.

I mic'd shaft above & below pin holes in the wear pattern and took multiple readings radially.
Shaft is round and all reading were the same for above & below.
.888"
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I also wanted to get some measurements of groove wear.
I could feel the groove with the ball gauge and took readings in the center of the slot.
Groove wear is close on all slots.
.368"-.372"
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Now I need to get out the picks / scotch brite and get back to cleaning.
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Discussion starter · #34 ·
Gotcha, it will be Millwright squeaky clean. Better than any Turbine :p

A word from the wise... Take extra care not to get Tinkseal on your sheave faces. :crying:
 
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[SUP][/SUP]See this is why when a dealer book is three hours on this service I’m fine with that. They’re not taking the time FOR THE JOURNEY.

The journey IS the destination.

My Dr Pulley 18 gram weights came, I’m on HV 20’s now. Thought about returning them but they are in hand and as much as I love going in (!) why not run ‘em to try something different. Waiting on Tink Seal. Told Babbit to cancel the $42 order of Ultramatic grease, it still hasn’t shipped.
 
Yeah, 3 hrs is a steal. I have half a day just to remove plastic, remove; clean and mic up secondary.

While cleaning more on secondary I noticed a razor sharp edge (Burr) on both the secondary sheaves. The movable half was a lot more pronounced.

I was careful and knocked it down with a hand hone then finished both edge halves with 500 grit crocus cloth. Hit the faces up with very fine scotch brite just to make sure nothing was embedded in the faces.

It was sharp enough that it shaved the smooth part of my thumb nail. You can see the fine black line in the pic.
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Clean and smooth edges now.
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Discussion starter · #37 ·
Secondary Spring Measurements. 4.841"
Forgot to show pics earlier.
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Also noticed that I didn't post sheave wear. IIRC my average speed was 14 mph.
Nope, no gloves. I got them out but said screw it. ;)
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Discussion starter · #38 ·
Belt Measurement. 1.380"
Pic was hard to get while holding, but that is what it is.
Only .020" left, come on man, get out of here.
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Spring Cup.
You can see the wear pattern. Barely feel the wear grooves, but my nail could catch a spot here and there.
Not much would touch it so I ended up using a 80 grit flap wheel very lightly to get the catch spots out and slightly blend.
No cracks and it looks good for another use.
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Nice work documenting your secondary Skelley. Not bad overall. How many miles? Be interesting to see if the new spring cup is beefier then the old one. Paul65 will have to let us know.
 
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It will go much longer than you think. There isn’t a lot of room there start to finish.

A gen 1 new belt is 1.31 and the wear limit is 1.28
 
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