[Rockit401]

I have used these for years and never had one come loose even with 18' travel suspension.

 

[Punkinhead]

The key thing you're doing right is using carabiners instead of hooks. When I've seen ATVs/UTVs/Motorcycles come loose it's because they used regular ratchet straps with hooks. Hit a bump, suspension compresses, and hook comes loose. There are rachet and cam buckle straps available with carabiners instead of hooks but you really have to hunt to find them online. I use them to tie down motorcycles in my enclosed trailer and it took quite an effort to find a source for them.

But it'll ride much nicer if you strapped down the tires instead.

 

[Rockit401]

The carabiners are usually available at farm stores, at least in this area at very good prices and I put them on standard straps that come with the s hooks.
I just pull it down tight enough to take out the bounce and it does good.
Pulling them down by the tires probably does make your sxs ride better but every time it goes up and down it puts a side load on the tires and suspension. I know they are designed for the side loads and it probably doesn't hurt anything but I don't see the need for the added complexity and cost and wear and tear on the suspension.
JMHO

 

[Paul65]

My lasso straps won’t be here until next week. Here’s what I did yesterday. It worked great! Much better than compressing the suspension. No loose straps and the machine road well. Allows it’s suspension to work normally.
Front straps are hooked onto the top outside A arm, and not super tight.

NOTE: The lasso straps are made for tires, these are just ratchet straps on a local 15-mile journey. I would not recommend this, I was just trying the wheels instead of the chassis.

 

[Budro2]

I wasn’t to sure about going through the wheel but with the correct straps I can’t see any problem with it!

 

[therebel19]

Just be careful going trough the wheels if you have any nicks in the wheel. I had a strap almost get sawed in half from a rough spot in the wheel that I didn't realize was there.

 

[Paul65]

Just be careful going trough the wheels if you have any nicks in the wheel. I had a strap almost get sawed in half from a rough spot in the wheel that I didn't realize was there.

Excellent tip, I hadn't thought of that.

 

[jimclemjr]

I basically strap down the four corners. I have a 14" tall rail around the three sides of my trailer and in the front I drive straight up tight and pull some 1000# 1 1/2" straps thru the wheels and wrap around the rail to the frame, snugged. The rears are with 24" axle straps that are around bottom a-arms at the outer knuckle, down to the rear D-rings in floor with some shortened 3k straps. On the sides, I use some 3" straps from the top cage to the side rails and compress the car about 2 or 3 ". These side straps have locking hooks that can not come off. I remember from my early motorcycle days the principle of pulling down a bike so the seals in the shocks do not get blown out bouncing around on a trailer. Basically I use the side straps as saving some wear and tear on the shocks and as a limit strap, the same principle I think as what Shock Therapy sells for the cars directly on the shock. Seems to me the same principle applies. Would love to get the Shock guy's opinion on this, as I respect his experience and knowledge, but anybody else is welcome to add a thought. ??? Additionally, I figure that if the load gets bouncing around, it makes it more unstable in a panic situation and more apt to lose control and contribute to an accident or trailer rollover. ??? Thoughts?

 

[Budro2]

My thoughts are that if the suspension is working for the buggy on the trailer everything will ride better. Especially in a rough situation or on rough roads.

The straps also take no shock and are less likely to break at the same time they have the wheels anchored! I think the shocks moving up and down what little they do on the trailer vs riding is meaningless in the grand scheme of wear and tear on the suspension and we all know what happens to dirt bike forks when you suck them down and haul them.

All I know is when I’ve pulled the suspension partially down and driven corrugated or rough roads I usually find the buggy has shifted one way or the other a little and the A arms and tires have slowly moved outward and left at least one or two straps somewhat loose! When tying close to the wheel and with suspension moving its always tight and hasn’t shifted anywhere, and all I have to do is snug the straps. I’m not sucking it down saying PLEASE don’t go anywhere!

If I hit a dip the trailer axle isn’t taking all the load. It drops in and about the time it’s moving back up the buggy suspension is compressing and softening the strain on the trailer suspension. Same thing vise versa when hitting a bump! The buggy and trailer suspension are working in unison to help each instead of working against each other and transferring energy to the straps!

NOT SAYING IM RIGHT. JUST MY THOUGHTS.

 

[Paul65]

Well said.

Here’s what did it for me. We drive these machines near their limits as a daily pursuit. If the tires can do that, and the suspension can do that, what’s your worry when motoring down the freeway?

No more loose straps when you secure the wheels. No reason to get loose, the tires don’t move.

What I did before wasn’t working. Professional car hauler axle straps securing the chassis. Strap tight as I dared, suspension compressed. Drive 20 miles repeat. Give up and do the other 180 miles to WV and we got there but it wasn’t right.

First lesson: strap at the most extreme LOW angle as possible when going to chassis. Think about how long travel shocks work. Don’t go down, go out far, then down only as much as you have to. If it’s not a good angle LOWER your attachment point on the machine to increase your LATERAL (horizontal = side to side).

Second lesson: secure the tires. It’s a bit better.

 

[Doc T]

I have strapped through the wheels for cross country hauls and found that I needed carpet strips under the straps to protect them from the rim edges. Wheel nets work well if your trailer will accommodate.

 

[Paul65]

I have strapped through the wheels for cross country hauls and found that I needed carpet strips under the straps to protect them from the rim edges. Wheel nets work well if your trailer will accommodate.

Thanks Doc! Hope we see you the July 30 ride. Always a pleasure. I do wish the OEM rims had larger openings.

 

[Doc T]

Paul, ck your PM

 

[DILLIGAF]

 

[kdt1970]

I tie mine down on all four wheels.

 

[KeithStone76]

After trying different things for tying down, I use chains with binders. 2 in front and 2 in the rear. It's not the quickest system, but it's what I'm most comfortable with for securing the machine to my trailer.

Sent from my moto e5 play using Tapatalk

 

[jimclemjr]

Just be careful going trough the wheels if you have any nicks in the wheel. I had a strap almost get sawed in half from a rough spot in the wheel that I didn't realize was there.

wanted to say a personal thanks for this share. I have been running front straps thru my wheels, which seem to not have any sharp edges, but your post made me re-inspected my straps and was starting to get a little wear from the 'smooth' edges. Was thinking I wished I had some canvas fire hose or tubular webbing I could run my straps thru. Something I could put on them and forget about. Dropped by TSC and found this 1 1/2" flexible pump outlet hose which I believe to be a cheap excellent solution for $3.

 

[Doc T]

The bottom line: straps fray,or break, loads shift, tires lose pressure or gain with altitude changes, Check your load at every stop! Feel the trailer hubs or get tire sensors, ck the straps, ck the hitch. You are responsible for your load.

 

[therebel19]

Absolutely correct Doc. I also run a lock on the trailer hitch and ball. Not so much for security but one less thing to hopefully not come undone.