I’ve seen so many thoughts on how to tie down and where to hook on this forum that it’s to many to count.

I believe that if a person wants to spend the money, the straps that go over the wheels are no doubt the best thing.

This is a gen 1 with factory skid plates. I’ve seen posts on mods to hook to, to get around the skid plate issue. Most of those eye hooks would snap off in the blink of an when someone got in a wreck or went off the road etc. I think these places would work the same for the x model.

A standard ratchet strap hook fits close to the wheel and never comes off right next to the upper ball joint on the front and on the upper A arm at the rear close to the wheel where it won’t bend. 0ver 3 years, fast and simple, no problems, and no Xing. Shock Therapy talked about reasons not to X but didn’t say they are entirely against it if hooking close to the wheel and not the chassis.
If a strap breaks Xing will pull your buggy sideways and depending on your trailer it may spell trouble!

 

Im so glad I got the KFI plow mount / Skid plate. It adds a Shackle mount and 2 tie down points.

Why Yamaha put 2 tie down spots in the back and not in the front is a big FAIL.

 

Not a fail, it’s because there not supposed to be used for tying down on a trailer! They are there for pulling going forward. You never pull in reverse. Therefore they are not on the front!

The video posted is all about not tying down to the frame or chassis.

Let me guess, you don’t care! LOL

 

I tie such that it can't go back, thus holding if forward. I have a welded front section to make a box on my trailer. The box with the tires are against it. 2 straps around the factory bumper going forward and two at the back through a hole in each vertical chassis arm loop around the back of the rear tire to hooks on the trail just ahead of the rear diff. I don't take off fast nor hammer the brakes. I confident its not leaving the trailer.

 

Seems common sense, but it never occurred to me. I'm one of those guys with a new "car" (his words in the video) and didn't know how to tie it down. I've been using car hauler straps that came with axle straps, then carefully securing them to the front bumper and the rear hitch area, four straps. No X-ing. Carefully tighten them down, compressing the suspension a little. After a few miles check and the straps would be loose. Repeat.

Makes sense to strap the tires, or if you cannot strap the tires, strap to the lower suspension right at the wheel hubs. Then don't crank enough on the straps to hurt anything. Since the wheel hubs don't move up and down - the straps will stay tight. I'll try it next time!

 

I tried what I everyone seems to do in the beginning attaching to the frame or bumpers, only to find that the suspension compresses, then while driving the A arms go outward and the straps end up slack. It always worked on a four wheeler for me but it’s never worked on the buggy. I’d find loose straps or worse straps that came completely undone.

Pulling the suspension down takes away the ability for the shocks to work with the bouncing on a rough road as well. All that energy is then transferred into the trailer suspension! When tying next to the wheel or by the wheel you can look in the mirror on a rough road and see the buggy’s suspension working to its advantage. When this is happening it’s less likely to be bouncing out of place and shifting on the trailer. Compression of the suspension by tying to the frame or bumpers does the opposite and puts excessive stress on the straps which is ultimately what snaps them.

A person can still tie to pull it forward to the front bar with the method next to the wheel which does create more stability!

 

My A-Arm guards are in the way. I could go to a point near the wheel hub, but its not easy. Can anyone think of a reason not to use wheel nets - they are supposed to be the best - but use them with ratchet straps instead of direct to the trailer floor right at the tire?

What I'm saying is, tie down like they show in the video, but instead of going to the lower ball joint, use a wheel net. You don't have to crank the ratchet strap to 1000 lbs, you are only trying to keep the machine from moving forward/backward in such a way the suspension travel doesn't cause the ratchet straps to get loose. Seems like it would be OK, what do you think? Thanks in advance.

Like this, only instead of pulling straight down, pull the front wheels forward and the rear wheels backwards. Picture for illustration purposes, I'd have to use ones that facilitated attaching a ratchet strap. I don't even know if they make such a thing.

 

My A-Arm guards are in the way. I could go to a point near the wheel hub, but its not easy. Can anyone think of a reason not to use wheel nets - they are supposed to be the best - but use them with ratchet straps instead of direct to the trailer floor right at the tire?

What I'm saying is, tie down like they show in the video, but instead of going to the lower ball joint, use a wheel net. You don't have to crank the ratchet strap to 1000 lbs, you are only trying to keep the machine from moving forward/backward in such a way the suspension travel doesn't cause the ratchet straps to get loose. Seems like it would be OK, what do you think? Thanks in advance.

Like this, only instead of pulling straight down, pull the front wheels forward and the rear wheels backwards. Picture for illustration purposes, I'd have to use ones that facilitated attaching a ratchet strap. I don't even know if they make such a thing.

View attachment 84882

No place to hook close to the wheel on the upper A arm of the X2?

If not much cheaper and easier, just get those straps like on the video and go around the upper A arm close to the wheel, then hook a strap to that.

Use on any trailer!

 

Just ordered E-track and wheel straps (nets). Hopefully the last set up I try!

 

E-track and wheel nets would be great. I'm on different trailers.

This might be better for me!

View attachment 84884

 

That nice big 2" buckle won't go through my OEM rims. I am looking at this: DD Sling. Multiple Sizes in Listing! (USA Made) 1" x 3', 2 Ply, Nylon Lifting Slings, Eye & Eye, Heavy Duty (900 Webbing), 3,200 lbs Vertical, 2,600 Choker, 6,400 Basket (USA Made Nylon) (1"x3')
These are a little pricey, I'd rather pay $10 a strap than $20, but Made in the USA. Excellent reviews.

Here's a $10 strap: Liftall EE1601DFX4 Polyester Web Sling, 1-ply, Eye and Eye, Flat Eye, 1" Width x 4' Length
And a $7 strap: Liftall EE1801DTX4 Polyester Web Eye and Eye Sling, Twisted Eye, 1-ply, 1" x 4'

Oh wow, the 4' length is needed on the larger rear tires. 3' would be tight. I think the $7 straps will work. 600 lbs vertical. 3200# using it like a sling and 1400 using it as a choker. Thoughts?

 

Once you've used wheel bonnets you'll never want to do it any other way. I have a lot more experience with dirt bikes than UTVs but they both have the same problem - long travel suspensions with soft dampening. That's a recipe for a strap coming unhooked on a bumpy road or when hitting a pothole. I wish I had a dollar for every time I saw a dirt bike lying on it's side, or worse, bounced right off the trailer.

For those wanting to buy e-track, see if there's a trucking supplier near you. I buy steel e-track for about $20 per 10' stick. The price of e-track online or from local farm stores is insane. I put two 10' sections of e-track on my aluminum trailer the same width apart as the wheel. I bolted through about every 4"-6" with pieces of 1/4" aluminum on the underside to spread the load.

 

It’s super tight on my X2. Can be done but wheels look like a better option. Wheels are better than A arms, right? I like the 1” straps going through the wheel. Any reason some other way is better? I’m on different trailers or would just do the e track.

It was a subsequent post: https://www.wolverineforums.com/for...om/forum/11-gear-accessories/30724-how-tie-down-utv-post332914.html #post332914

 

I think wheel bonnets are undoubtedly the best way. I don’t like the idea of going through the rim as much but I suppose it could work. Just doesn’t seem like it would hold it down solid! I have no experience with doing it like suggested in your question however.

 

My first question was about wheel bonnets, nets, call them whatever. If I’m on different trailers no way to etrack. Will it matter if I net the tire and pull 70-80 degrees lateral, as in ratchet strap. The wheel nets are shown ratcheting straight down to track. Fine if you’re on the same trailer and can rig it.

Tha ball joint thing with a arm guards on an X2 is not as viable as capturing the wheels. I looked at it three times. I need to do the wheels. The 1” straps through a rim sure look good to me. Will wait for more opinions before purchasing.

 

What your looking for is a tire lasso strap.

 

Macs wheel nets are outstanding, I used the ATV ones on my Grizzly and then upgraded to the UTV when I went to 27's on the Wolverine. It can't move!

UTV (Side by Side) Wheel Net Pack

 

I had a pair of these: https://www.amazon.com/Vulcan-Basket-Style-Vehicle-Down/dp/B0714FZ7VN but I wasn't impressed with them. I don't know if its because I run low tire pressure or not but they kept coming lose on me so I went back to ratchet straps. I use the holes near the rear hitch and holes near the upper a arm on the x4. I ratchet them down in opposite directions of the vehicle (run the rear straps forward and the front straps backwards). So far I haven't had a strap come lose running them this way

 

Ok I secured my Wolvie for a trail to ride. Here is the setup but unique to my trailer. Eyes were aready there and my custom box I built in the front offers the blocking along with the welded square U bolts I placed there.

Different but it works, for me!!!

 

I have used these for years and never had one come loose even with 18' travel suspension.

 

The key thing you're doing right is using carabiners instead of hooks. When I've seen ATVs/UTVs/Motorcycles come loose it's because they used regular ratchet straps with hooks. Hit a bump, suspension compresses, and hook comes loose. There are rachet and cam buckle straps available with carabiners instead of hooks but you really have to hunt to find them online. I use them to tie down motorcycles in my enclosed trailer and it took quite an effort to find a source for them.

But it'll ride much nicer if you strapped down the tires instead.

 

The carabiners are usually available at farm stores, at least in this area at very good prices and I put them on standard straps that come with the s hooks.
I just pull it down tight enough to take out the bounce and it does good.
Pulling them down by the tires probably does make your sxs ride better but every time it goes up and down it puts a side load on the tires and suspension. I know they are designed for the side loads and it probably doesn't hurt anything but I don't see the need for the added complexity and cost and wear and tear on the suspension.
JMHO

 

My lasso straps won’t be here until next week. Here’s what I did yesterday. It worked great! Much better than compressing the suspension. No loose straps and the machine road well. Allows it’s suspension to work normally.
Front straps are hooked onto the top outside A arm, and not super tight.

NOTE: The lasso straps are made for tires, these are just ratchet straps on a local 15-mile journey. I would not recommend this, I was just trying the wheels instead of the chassis.

 

I wasn’t to sure about going through the wheel but with the correct straps I can’t see any problem with it!

 

Just be careful going trough the wheels if you have any nicks in the wheel. I had a strap almost get sawed in half from a rough spot in the wheel that I didn't realize was there.

 

Excellent tip, I hadn't thought of that.

 

I basically strap down the four corners. I have a 14" tall rail around the three sides of my trailer and in the front I drive straight up tight and pull some 1000# 1 1/2" straps thru the wheels and wrap around the rail to the frame, snugged. The rears are with 24" axle straps that are around bottom a-arms at the outer knuckle, down to the rear D-rings in floor with some shortened 3k straps. On the sides, I use some 3" straps from the top cage to the side rails and compress the car about 2 or 3 ". These side straps have locking hooks that can not come off. I remember from my early motorcycle days the principle of pulling down a bike so the seals in the shocks do not get blown out bouncing around on a trailer. Basically I use the side straps as saving some wear and tear on the shocks and as a limit strap, the same principle I think as what Shock Therapy sells for the cars directly on the shock. Seems to me the same principle applies. Would love to get the Shock guy's opinion on this, as I respect his experience and knowledge, but anybody else is welcome to add a thought. ??? Additionally, I figure that if the load gets bouncing around, it makes it more unstable in a panic situation and more apt to lose control and contribute to an accident or trailer rollover. ??? Thoughts?

 

My thoughts are that if the suspension is working for the buggy on the trailer everything will ride better. Especially in a rough situation or on rough roads.

The straps also take no shock and are less likely to break at the same time they have the wheels anchored! I think the shocks moving up and down what little they do on the trailer vs riding is meaningless in the grand scheme of wear and tear on the suspension and we all know what happens to dirt bike forks when you suck them down and haul them.

All I know is when I’ve pulled the suspension partially down and driven corrugated or rough roads I usually find the buggy has shifted one way or the other a little and the A arms and tires have slowly moved outward and left at least one or two straps somewhat loose! When tying close to the wheel and with suspension moving its always tight and hasn’t shifted anywhere, and all I have to do is snug the straps. I’m not sucking it down saying PLEASE don’t go anywhere!

If I hit a dip the trailer axle isn’t taking all the load. It drops in and about the time it’s moving back up the buggy suspension is compressing and softening the strain on the trailer suspension. Same thing vise versa when hitting a bump! The buggy and trailer suspension are working in unison to help each instead of working against each other and transferring energy to the straps!

NOT SAYING IM RIGHT. JUST MY THOUGHTS.