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Discussion starter · #61 ·
Same nut and I torque mine to specs, but yes, less ugga duggas.
 
As Todd would say, in the videos. Ha ha! I’d have not dove in this pool without Todd’s videos. And he always answers my emails. Huge help to my hobby, my passion.
 
I went back through this looking for the recommendation on the grease for the secondary sliding pin things. I saw where Tinkseal was mentioned, but not specifically recommended. Is that what I should use?
 
I gave this a try this time around.

Image
 
I went back through this looking for the recommendation on the grease for the secondary sliding pin things. I saw where Tinkseal was mentioned, but not specifically recommended. Is that what I should use?
I used tinkseal on my secondary.
 
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What's up with the pictures - all I can see is a minus sign.

I see on the Hunterworks site where it says that's what Tinkseal is for. I'll use it, still have plenty that came with the machined primary sheave. Thanks.
 
What's up with the pictures - all I can see is a minus sign.

I see on the Hunterworks site where it says that's what Tinkseal is for. I'll use it, still have plenty that came with the machined primary sheave. Thanks.
Sorry something to do with Dilligaf's pic. I just quoted him is all. The pic was there originally. It showed the back end of his wheeler all torn down. Yeah Tinkseal is fine to use for your secondary as well as Primary the locations Todd mentions.
 
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Are the users of Tinkseal also using it for greasing the splines on the primary sheave's shaft and on the secondary sheave's shaft? I'm in the process of servicing my primary and secondary using Tinkseal I ordered from Hunterworks. My Secondary Sheave had not been disassembled and serviced in about 3,000 miles and had a lot of dust built up on the back side of it (the side you can't see).

The face of each sheave still looks like it did when brand new, no grooving at all in 4,700 miles, but my belt is down to within 0.05 mm of being at the lower limit before recommended to replace it. Next time I'm in the CVT looks like I will have a new belt on hand. I'm running 0.5 mm shim and the belt shows no sign of bottoming out yet.
 
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I don’t use it on the splines myself but it won’t hurt. I dab of any grease there would do I suppose.
 
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Update: Rocky Mountain just charged my credit card for the balance of the order I placed on June 16. It appears this includes the secondary spring cup. Their website indicates the entire order shipped.

They still show the secondary spring cup as "Not Shipping" when you view the parts diagram (where you would select it for your cart).

I'll post back when the package arrives and let you know if I get the secondary spring cup, and which part number it is.
 
Got the secondary spring cup. This one is metal.

 
Discussion starter · #74 ·
It don't need to be thicker, it needs to be a different alloy. Chrome or nitride on the inside would be the best solution.
 
Discussion starter · #76 ·
It don't need to be thicker, it needs to be a different alloy. Chrome or nitride on the inside would be the best solution.
You can flex the stock spring cup with your bare hands. If they use the same material it needs to be thicker but agree another material would be better. Chrome will flake off with the current thickness.

Even nitriding, I don't know if it would be sufficient with the current thickness. If we were just talking sliding friction, maybe, but I'm not convinced that alone would be enough.
 
I’m going back inside now that it’s here and I’ll compare the two and report back. Not sure when, but will.
 
From RMATV ?
Rocky Mountain ATV/MC
Yes from an order placed in early June. When I got the CC charge I checked their website and it said that part was not shipping, no way to put it in the cart.
 
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