Yamaha Wolverine Forum banner
21 - 31 of 31 Posts
Discussion starter · #21 ·
Just to feed the trolls some more, here are shots of my transmission, rear, and front diffs, all running Mobil 1 75W90 and Gear Butter by Hunterworks

I'm proud to say I'm no expert on gear wear patterns so maybe experts can chime in on how they look

Gear right near the transmission fill tube

Image


Rear diff........sorry but that hole is small so it's hard to get a decent picture

Image


Front diff

Image
 
Good new is undoubtly GREAT!!!


That what we all hope is happening.
 
All the more reason to run 100% synthetic. Mobil1, Amsoil, etc.. Your good for another 9500. Might as well just keep it now. Resale won't be that great now anyway.
 
I run synthetic but have the poor part cylinder issue causing oil consumption. I am waiting for the dealer to open up to address this. Email from me about it sounded encouraging that they'd order the kit.
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
Yamaha should give him a freebie to experiment with!

Sent from my moto e5 play using Tapatalk
Who better to put the new model to the test right?!?!
 
I’m thinking of putting thermotech under the bed to help reduce the heat transfer from the muffler. Hopefully it adheres and stays put. Also planning to do the center console.
 
Thermotec insulation and driver side foot well repair

The Wolverine X2/X4 is one of the coolest running SxS as far as cabin heat. If you think your unit runs cool now, do these mods and you'll be amazed at the difference as you can improve on the existing design. No more uncomfortable heat by your right leg and sound is greatly reduced as well.

I had initially installed Thermotec in the center console, engine cover, and rear foot wells with good results. I also insulated my driver side coolant line the entire length of the cab. This is a MUST DO mod for every X2/X4 owner as the hot coolant line runs right along your right foot/leg. I didn't do the front foot wells initially because they're someone a PITA to remove. Pics from my initial mod:

Image


Hot coolant line wrapped with insulation

Image


I replaced the thinner blue insulation with a really fat pool noodle for maximum insulation. It goes over the metal portion of the coolant line. An added benefit of insulating the hot line is that heat transfer to your engine air intake and CVT air cooling ducts are reduced. That hot line runs right above the CVT cover. It's good that it's above and not below it so heat transfer is minimized but it can still be improved by the insulation.

Image


Coronovirus gave me the time to add Thermotec to the front driver and passenger side foot wells

Driver side was pretty easy to remove

Image


Passenger side was a PITA. You have to completely remove the upper dash screws and slide the upper dash back in order to get it out

Image


I set one of them by my wood stove to help bond the Thermotec to the plastic and check out the temperature difference


You can see the Thermotec/pool noodle combo is going to keep my leg nice and cool during the summer as well as my front beverages. Since I have the passenger foot well out I can now also insulate the metal coolant return line running along the passenger side

Image


Once again, that return line is right next to the engine air intake duct, heating it up. The only reason why I can guess why it's run so close is to help evaporate any oil/fluid that accumulates there over time. I have my oil catch can installed so I'm not worried about oil accumulation there anymore.

Image


Driver side foot well cracks. Mine finally started to crack. Time to repair and improve the stability. For those of you out of warranty and want to pre-fix it, do it before it starts cracking.

Image


As seen from below

Image


First step is to take your $9 Harbor Freight heat gun on high and melt the plastic below and melt it back together. You have to first adjust the cracked sides so that they're back together. You may need a third set of hands. You have to be careful with the heat so that you don't warp the plastic. If you need to, practice on some scrap plastic.

Image


I took some scrap pieces of plastic that I had when I butchered my rear driver side passenger foot well and put it in place

Image


Melted it good and bonded. That area is probably twice as thick as before

Image


This is why you want to do it before it cracks. I was able to re bond the top side of the cracks, but it's not the prettiest, but it's better than the previous open cracks. If you get some warping you can heat the whole area up and use a large flat piece of wood to straighten the area out.

Image


UPDATE:

Decided to add some Thermotec under the rear bed to help quiet things down and reduce heat soak for the rear passengers.

Bed removed

Image


Underside

Image


Installed

Image


It does make a little bit of difference as far as noise but I don't think it can be captured via video (I'm not relocating my dash cam)
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
Not really, more heat reduction as far as the footwells. Keep in mind I have the HMF exhaust. With stock exhaust I may notice it more soundwise.
 
21 - 31 of 31 Posts