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I want to give a BIG THANK YOU for all of these tips/tricks and upgrades. I would not have known any better before taking my new machine out riding. The write ups here are very creative and very clear to understand.

Dave
 

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wheel-well block-offs.
Curious what you did here. Did you document it in the thread, and I'm missing it?
Found a few bigger puddles to blast through this weekend, and ended up with wet feet even though water level was way below the doors.
 

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Discussion Starter #123

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Discussion Starter #124 (Edited)
1 year later. Amazing what 1 year more experience, rock sliders, plastic skids, A-arm guards, 8 ply tires on bead lock rims, Weller ECU flash, HW clutching, and decent shocks will do. Shaving the beard may have helped along with not worrying about the wife wigging out. Maybe it was the 3 extra mirrors and backup cam.

 

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I always take things a little slower when the wife is on board. Have you done a test ride with a sway bar disconnected?
 

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You might be able to just do the front. The ride quality improvement is pretty significant. It only take a few minutes, 5mm allen and 17mm wrench. I'm going to completely remove the front bar but keep the rear zip tied out of the way. If i get to a new park that has more high speed stuff i can reconnect it.
 
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I remember seeing the drilled end links, that's a good idea. I wouldn't recommend leaving one side connected. If the connected a-arm is extended (pulling the sway bar down with it) while the other a-arm is compressed the sway bar will hit the compressed arm. This happened to me while testing the flex in a small ditch in my front yard.
 
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Have the valves needed any adjustment in 6K miles?
 

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Discussion Starter #132
Have the valves needed any adjustment in 6K miles?
Should they have been checked? Yes. Have I, :( No.

I can tell you that it STILL starts up on the first try. I really do need to check my valve clearance though.
 

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Discussion Starter #134 (Edited)
Big Boy\Seat Riser Mod continued.

The bolts you'll need are M8 x 1.25. I chose 70 mm long, which are a bit too long if you're only raising about 1" in height. I think I had to swap that rear bolt out for a 40 mm long bolt as if you have too long a bolt, it bottoms out on the seat frame bracket. The other 3 bolt holes clear with no obstruction.



To make your spacers, you'll need to make something 1.75" wide and 7.75" long to avoid the slider rivets. I'm using wood as my spacer and cut it to fit





Inserted underneath the stock brackets



Flip over and mark your bolt holes and drill, making your holes slightly larger than necessary for fudge factor



Bolted in place



View from underneath



Passenger side stock height, look at the seat to center console crease



Driver side comparison to console



Pretty obvious from the back the driver seat is raised



Less space between the seat and kidney killer



Took me about an hour to complete and is completely reversible. Driving test to follow.
 

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I think this might be a useful complement to Massive's kidney saver. I am fairly broad shouldered and found the constant banging from the seat shoulder bolster more than a little annoying. So, I cut the thing off along with the vane that helps seal against debris entering the cockpit. I cut the tubes carefully to ensure that I could sleave and reinstall the bolster if I decided that I had made a mistake - that seems unlikely. I'm much more comfortable now.
 

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Sideview w/o driver's side bolster

Let me see if this works. Last time the pic was rotated 90 degrees.
 

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