[MassiveOverkill]

Winterizing my X4, keeps coolant temps in the 160-170F range when going at speed. It's 40 F here now.

 

[jlamx2]

Hi Massive and everyone, thank you for all the excellent mod descriptions and videos. I just got a new X2, my first Yamaha and love it except for the seat belt buzzer. I intend to use the machine for trail and driveway maintenance so I have to get in and out a lot so I was trying to disable it and came upon your instructions. Sorry for the dumb newbie question, but what kind of screwdriver is needed to remove the screws? I have a lot of tools but for the life of me I could not find anything to fit it. Thanks

 

[MassiveOverkill]

Hi Massive and everyone, thank you for all the excellent mod descriptions and videos. I just got a new X2, my first Yamaha and love it except for the seat belt buzzer. I intend to use the machine for trail and driveway maintenance so I have to get in and out a lot so I was trying to disable it and came upon your instructions. Sorry for the dumb newbie question, but what kind of screwdriver is needed to remove the screws? I have a lot of tools but for the life of me I could not find anything to fit it. Thanks

Welcome to the forum! They should be standard Allen-head screws.

 

[MassiveOverkill]

Upgraded my cheapie heater system with larger ducts\outlets.

Original 2" ducts/outlets:

Upgraded to the larger Summit Racing ducts and outlet:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vta-499193
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vta-318010

I know I could have flush mounted them, but wanted the outlets set back a little like shown.

Instead of using 2 ducts I just ran the one larger with a straighter path and used a Y right before the dual outlets.

I'm debating on adding a blower fan. With a blower fan and some radiator shroud mods I'm betting this cheapie heater will outperform any aftermarket heater. Why? All aftermarket heaters use a dedicated heater core. Unless you block off your main radiator (almost completely) you now, in essence, have 2 radiators dissipating heat. If you were just to use the radiator itself for heat, you would get hotter temperatures. The problem with using the radiator on the X2/X4 is that there's a lot of crap in the way. Some aftermarket manufacturer could easily make a vacuum molded 2 piece shroud to capture all the heat coming off the radiator. I may get a 5 gallon bucket, cut the bottom off of it and drill a single hole to feed the heater duct to.

I also blocked off the passenger side wheel well a little more with some foam while I had the firewall cover off to run the ducting.

 

[Piston Yamaha]

I see what you're saying about the heater core working as a second radiator and I was wondering how much extra cooling I would see. I haven't noticed any drop in engine temperature yet, though it's not easy to tell because the operating temp varies depending on the outside temp. I was riding today and it was 40 degrees outside while the engine was operating at 188 and the heat was pouring out of the vents. I think what makes the heater effective is that it gets the water from the engine before it gets to the radiator then routes it right back into the engine. The radiator and the heater core are both receiving water at the same temperature. The heater core is just putting it back into the engine at a warmer temp than the radiator because the heater core is small.

I drew up a little diagram of my theory.

 

[PapaSkeeta]

For more efficient operation for the engine, I would think that the Heater Core and the Radiator should be connected in series, instead of parallel, as in your above diaphragm, with the coolant from the engine going to the Heater Core first. This way the heater core would still get the same coolant temperatures but the engine would be receiving cooler coolant from using both the heater core and radiator to dissipate the heat. I would treat it the same as installing an auxiliary aftermarket transmission cooler, in series.

Per the above diaphragm, you would be mixing 2 different coolant temperatures going back to the engine: 1 that would be at it's normal return coolant flow temperature coming from the radiator and the other a higher coolant temperature coming from the Heater Core that is at a higher temperature due to the smaller core size. In warm weather conditions, in theory, it would be possible for the coolant temperature to exceed the factory designed coolant return temperature due to some of the coolant bypassing the radiator and only going through the Heater Core.

 

[Piston Yamaha]

I agree with you @Papaskeeta , but that was the installation instructions from UPI so I figured I better follow them.

 

[MassiveOverkill]

Piston, is that an adjustable coolant valve, restricted Y (one side larger than the other) or a standard Y fitting installed?

I went out riding yesterday and my passengers asked me to unzip the windows because they were getting too hot (they were wearing multiple layers). Ironically we were also at 41 F but I do have my radiator partially blocked off.

 

[Piston Yamaha]

Standard Y fittings with no adjustments.

 

[PapaSkeeta]

I agree with you @Papaskeeta , but that was the installation instructions from UPI so I figured I better follow them.

The only reason I can come up with that would make sense for installing it in parallel is if UPI is using a smaller size tubing for their Heater Core than what the radiator has in it.

A few years ago I made a portable/camping propane water heater that would heat water to 140 degrees that would run off of 12v or (13) D Cell batteries. The flow rate, greatly affected by the size of copper tubing, had a big impact on the amount of heat that the water would absorb going through the copper tubing; (1/2" dia. way to fast, 1/4" dia. way to slow, 3/8" dia. just right). UPI may have had to reduce the tubing size (thus restricting the flow) in the Heater Core so it would generate adequate heat and still be able to keep the Heater Core component in as small a package as possible, and if the Heater Core does indeed have smaller tubing than the Radiator, then if they were installed in series the Heater Core could cause the engine to overheat from the restricted flow of the Heater Core.

 

[Piston Yamaha]

I questioned the installation myself and triple checked the drawings and even stopped to look up other flow diagrams on the internet. I figured UPI does this professionally, and I don't, so I'll do it exactly as they say and keep a very close eye on the operating temps. One other thing to think of is I added another 1/2 liter of coolant to the system so the overall volume of coolant is higher. I may add a shutoff valve to the hot side of the core so I can shut it down through the summer just to be safe.

 

[MassiveOverkill]

https://www.wolverineforums.com/for...2-x4-general-discussion/18762-x4-s-dry-sump-system-oil-change-2.html#post275302

 

[jrry261]

Why 3.5 quarts?

 

[jrry261]

I'm only seeing where you added 2.5, where does the other quart go?

 

[MassiveOverkill]

Why 3.5 quarts?


I'm only seeing where you added 2.5, where does the other quart go?

That's the engine oil capacity of the X2/X4. You top off the dry sump reservoir after initially checking it, it should take another quart but:

"If your oil level is halfway up the hatched area I personally would leave it to avoid the aforementioned overfilling issue. If it's not, add enough oil to bring it halfway up the hatched area. "

 

[jrry261]

Gotcha thanks

 

[MassiveOverkill]

Cheapie side mirrors for your X2/X4

https://www.wolverineforums.com/for...-x2-x4-general-discussion/26088-cheapie-side-mirrors-your-x2-x4.html#post275440

 

[MassiveOverkill]

Upgraded my cheapie heater system with larger ducts\outlets.

Original 2" ducts/outlets:

Upgraded to the larger Summit Racing ducts and outlet:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vta-499193
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vta-318010

I know I could have flush mounted them, but wanted the outlets set back a little like shown.

Instead of using 2 ducts I just ran the one larger with a straighter path and used a Y right before the dual outlets.

I'm debating on adding a blower fan. With a blower fan and some radiator shroud mods I'm betting this cheapie heater will outperform any aftermarket heater. Why? All aftermarket heaters use a dedicated heater core. Unless you block off your main radiator (almost completely) you now, in essence, have 2 radiators dissipating heat. If you were just to use the radiator itself for heat, you would get hotter temperatures. The problem with using the radiator on the X2/X4 is that there's a lot of crap in the way. Some aftermarket manufacturer could easily make a vacuum molded 2 piece shroud to capture all the heat coming off the radiator. I may get a 5 gallon bucket, cut the bottom off of it and drill a single hole to feed the heater duct to.

I also blocked off the passenger side wheel well a little more with some foam while I had the firewall cover off to run the ducting.

Results, here you can see snow falling on the windshield. I have dual fans on along with engine cover raised 1-2". No fogging

About 10 minutes later the snow is starting to melt on the driver side

Windshield is pretty clear on the driver side and decent melt on passenger side and the cab is starting to get toasty.

 

[Piston Yamaha]

Today I was out with the UPI heater, 29 degrees, no sun, and traveling 35-45 mph. My engine temp was in the lower 160s and the heat was just enough to take the chill off. I'm going to have to block off the radiator, just like you said. If I let it idle, I could get it up to 200 and if I kept my speed in the 20s I could get into the 170s, which is good.

 

[Jimbo]

Massive, have you ever splashed water into the rad and got steamed out inside thru the duct? Also, I've seen those fans before, are they blowing right on the windshield, or just kind of across it, or just circulating to keep the fog down?