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Yamaha Wolverine X2/X4 mods, tips, and tricks

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242K views 160 replies 36 participants last post by  Ron505  
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Great post! Thank you!
 
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I noticed that space when I was removing my oil tank. I'm going to get in there and look at it more closely. I bet I could fit a medium sized Rubbermaid bin in there.
 
Getting under the dash is really easy compared to previous models (to avoid confusion, in the picture below, you're removing the firewall cover, the dash stays in place). Remove the windshield (easy if you have the OEM), remove 5 allen head screws on the dash and 4 10 mm bolts on on the front and pull the plastic panel out. On the right there's a plethora of pre-wired plugs. No more need to buy the expensive Yamaha accessory splitters. I imagine a harness kit would be cheaper (will update this post if I find a part number). The drive-by-wire throttle unit is on the left.

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See my follow-up post for making your own plug:

https://www.wolverineforums.com/for...-electrical/14962-wire-kit-yamaha-5km-86171-00-00-a-post209825.html #post209825
That's where I'm going to install my fuse blocks, breakers, and stuff. Looks like a good starting spot to run wiring anywhere I want.
 
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I see what you're saying about the heater core working as a second radiator and I was wondering how much extra cooling I would see. I haven't noticed any drop in engine temperature yet, though it's not easy to tell because the operating temp varies depending on the outside temp. I was riding today and it was 40 degrees outside while the engine was operating at 188 and the heat was pouring out of the vents. I think what makes the heater effective is that it gets the water from the engine before it gets to the radiator then routes it right back into the engine. The radiator and the heater core are both receiving water at the same temperature. The heater core is just putting it back into the engine at a warmer temp than the radiator because the heater core is small.

I drew up a little diagram of my theory. :)

 
I agree with you @Papaskeeta , but that was the installation instructions from UPI so I figured I better follow them.
 
Standard Y fittings with no adjustments.
 
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I questioned the installation myself and triple checked the drawings and even stopped to look up other flow diagrams on the internet. I figured UPI does this professionally, and I don't, so I'll do it exactly as they say and keep a very close eye on the operating temps. One other thing to think of is I added another 1/2 liter of coolant to the system so the overall volume of coolant is higher. I may add a shutoff valve to the hot side of the core so I can shut it down through the summer just to be safe.
 
Today I was out with the UPI heater, 29 degrees, no sun, and traveling 35-45 mph. My engine temp was in the lower 160s and the heat was just enough to take the chill off. I'm going to have to block off the radiator, just like you said. If I let it idle, I could get it up to 200 and if I kept my speed in the 20s I could get into the 170s, which is good.
 
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The motorcycle helmet nets from Harbor Freight work the best as they provide the best tension and less gap in the netting. I'm stepping up my game and I'm installing the Yamaha OEM cargo box. The nets are nice, especially for temporarily securing certain items but when you get in the rough stuff, the swinging of items can be a distraction. Stay tuned for my review.
After my near rollover I've been thinking I need to do a better job of securing my items too. It would have been a s*** show inside my Wolvie if we went all the way over. From now on, everything is going to be securely fastened without relying on gravity or hope.
 
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You're putting so many miles on your machine, we'll all have a full service manual by the end of the year. :D