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Discussion starter · #21 ·
Will do.
I have the half windshield on with the powermesh atm, but hope to get time to swap out for testing.
 
Tip to the wise, don't leave the template on when you cut.
First I put painters tape down then set the pattern where I wanted it.
I used a utility knife to score the cut line while skipping little spots here and there to leave it intact.
Then I used the 1/8" drill bit on all the holes.
Remove pattern and drill the inside holes out to 1/4", then jigsaw the cut line.

If you try to use the 1/4" bit, it tears up the pattern and makes the cut line hard to see or completely destroys it.
If that makes sense.
I did the first by the directions and it turned out ok, but the second one my way went so much better.
.

Mine showed up in the mail yesterday, thanks for the tip! Have you driven the machine yet? How's the air flow?
 
Discussion starter · #23 · (Edited)
Thanks.
Another tip that I wish I'd done was photocopy the template and put it up for later. Just in case I ever decide to move them to another window or machine down the road.
You could also use a awe or sharp pointed object to layout the bolt holes and skip drilling the template all together.
Check the width of your saw blade. Mine was tight in the 1/4" hole so I over sized the starter hole.
The bottom cut line is viewable afterwards, so drill and cut more carefully there. The rest is covered by gasket and the vent itself if you are off a little.

I haven't tested it yet.
I still have my half windshield on with the powermesh screen atm.

Edit: I used a tape measure and measured to the cut line from the top (2 spots) and sides of the window to get them even and square.
Also check the recess that the window sit into on the machine and dash angle to make sure you have clearance if you want them down low.
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
The downloadable pdf file from their site has a pattern in it, but requires 11" x 17" paper to print properly.
You can position the template carefully enough to get a good pattern on 8-1/2" x 11" printer paper.
If anyone does this and are able to upload it, let me know. I need a backup pattern. :D
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
Snap Vents arrived.
Item was listed as 1 each, but package included 2 snap vents, just to clarify.

The OD of the main body measures 3-1/4" while the flange OD measures 3-3/4"
If pulled flush, there would be approximately 1" protruding inside.
I used flash to get the ramp snap area to show.

I'm not 100% sure on the wire.
It's fits in there snug and doesn't move, but I think you would remove and replace with it hanging down as a usable handle if needed.

Anyway, here's pics....


 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
The directions say to drill from both sides, but I like how this guy uses the wood.
Looks like they tilt in/out at the bottom.
.
 
I like the idea that the aviation vents are clear. Also wondering how they will function when exposed to dust, grit, and a bunch of mud or muddy water. Maybe a field test could be done before you drill holes in your windshield. Great idea if they work in a trail ride scenario.
 
Discussion starter · #29 · (Edited)
Going to test the vents later today.
I got lucky in my estimate when I did the layout and I have 1/4" clearance from the dash.
From the top of the bottom seal to the center of the vents cut line is 1-1/2", so something to keep in mind when anyone does the layout.
Pics....
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Inside dash clearance 1/4"
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Going to test the vents later today.
I got lucky in my estimate when I did the layout and I have 1/4" clearance from the dash.
From the bottom seal to the center of the vents cut line is 1-1/2", so something to keep in mind when anyone does the layout.
Pics....
.
View attachment 84824

Inside dash clearance 1/4"
.
View attachment 84826
I'm anxious to hear how they work! Mine are still sitting on the work bench till I get a chance so please let us know how it goes. From the looks of your pictures I don't think I'm gonna have a problem with my OEM fold down windshield putting them on the lower half.
 
Discussion starter · #31 · (Edited)
Just as I was leaving to test, a buddy called and wanted to go for a long ride.
We were out for about 10 hrs yesterday and it was 85 degrees
At first I thought about putting my half windshield back on as I didn't know if they would move enough air.

Long story short, they worked really good and made the ride tolerable with the full windshield.
As the air comes in, it wants to go back out, like how air travels over a airplane wing is the best way I can describe it.
Just about the time the air is going to hit you in the chest, it is going out towards the door. So the closer you can put them towards the center the better.

Mine are pretty centered with the seats and I have about 2" of room from the dash hump.
If I was doing it again, I would move them inward a extra 1" or so, but I'm pleased with them and I think they are a must do.
It's nice getting some air flow and it helps get rid of the heat too.

We did a mix of fast trail riding and slow technical.
It didn't take me long to get use to them and after the first few hours I didn't even notice them.
I would absolutely install them again and wish I'd done it sooner.
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
Skelly521
Those vents look great. Nice job. And the tips are going to be a big help to us all.
Thanks and I also should note that I have my soft cab rear window on too.
If you have a vented rear window, air flow will be probably be different, but at least everyone will get the general idea on how they function.
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
After more time with the vents, especially in 90+ degree weather, they are a must if you want to run the full windshield.
I installed mine with the flip lever towards the inside since I'm right handed.

If I could do it again, I would move them in the extra 2" towards the dash hump and put the levers on the outside.
Something to think about.
 
Discussion starter · #35 ·
I have 3 front window options. OEM Full, SATV half and Rogue Powermesh.
I don't have a desire for a flip windshield. Personal preference really. Vibration, gap issues, soft cab fit issues, wiper interference, tight woods, etc, etc.

If for some reason I would break this OEM Full, I would buy the Spike vented front windshield and it's probably going on my list of later purchase items.
It's also something I would consider that people looking at front windshields possibly consider.
 
Discussion starter · #37 ·
Love it.
It slightly diffuses the air, but most importantly stops all the bugs/rocks/etc, from hitting you in the face. Wife hates getting gnats/bugs in her hair.
I got pelted in the face w/ bees one day and the wife was laughing at the yellow pollen dots left on my face, so I purchased it.
For night rides, it's a must. Every flying insect known to man is out....lol.
I run with the soft cab rear window, so we don't have any swirling air/dust.

It's a soft feeling mesh like in a screen door, but stronger. The sides feel like a divers suit with heavy duty zippers.
I've beat the crap out of it w/ tree branches & power washer and it's still like new.
 
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Discussion starter · #39 ·
Yup that's it, Thanks Paul.
Reviews have said that the clamps are similar and in the same location as OEM.
Other aftermarket windshields have wider clamps and generally more of them. This would just make you work around other accessories such as the soft cab, mirrors, etc.
 
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If I could do it again, I would move them in the extra 2" towards the dash hump and put the levers on the outside.
Something to think about.

I did this. Mine are so close to the middle hump without touching, couldn't fit a thick piece of paper in it. (More of an accident really) but they do move air from the slope of the hood right in to the cabin area really well. I did have to put my levers on the outside, but one little screw, and they will work on either side.
 
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