I read on the Yamaha Grizzly forum that a good quality wheel bearing grease will work just fine. I have not tried it, I was lucky my dealer had the ultramatic grease in stock last month when I needed it. I was also told by Arnie Cooper of "Coop45" who sells machined sheaves that to only use the Ultramatic grease. So if you need to get it done I would say try the bearing grease and when you get your back-ordered grease take it apart again and redo it, and you can then inspect how well the bearing grease worked.

 

To supplement the Viking thought...if you are going to do that two options: boat trailer bearing grease is water-resistant. Moly sulfide grease has additives to make it cling better to the surface and was original developed for higher heat resistance for less sling-off, albeit a little harder to clean off.
Edit: I remember that the moly greases were developed back in the day for disc brake bearings and CVs as the heat was killing the available grease of the day. But I think the NLGI 2 rating will be OK and most grease for bearings meet that these days.

 

It's crazy that you just posted this. I spent hours on this very subject and found a few things, but not enough to make me jump. You want something that will stay put and will handle high heat. Apparently the Ultramatic grease was specifically developed for the Yamaha CVT. I never found anything that said here's a great alternative. I bet you didn't either, hence the post.

I tried Amazon, Rocky Mountain, lots of places and they all said no stock. So I bought a tub of Ultramatic at www.yamahapartshouse.com on 8/4 and it still shows as not shipped. Was that a place you tried and didn't get it?

 

Partzilla, Boats & Mom&Pop shop online.
Just got a email this morning saying it's been pushed back again to Aug 31st from Partzilla and Boats. No word on the Mom/Pop shop yet, but last I heard was Aug 17th and that was the same date the others said too.
I ordered it a while ago, just keeps getting pushed out.

Edit: Boats order was July 2nd. Partzilla was Aug 3rd. Mom/Pop July 15th
Apparently Boats waits to ship until all items are in. They have my weights, but are sitting on them.

 

Ultramatic grease is closer to NLGI 1.0. We have a couple of people testing Tinkseal as a replacement for Ultramatic grease. TinkSeal has an extremely low coefficient of friction and remains slippery even if it dries. TinkSeal is a food grade grease, so it won't attack plastics like other greases.

 

My HW sheave and weights are still greaseless, but I use Redline Oil CV2 grease successfully in a number of applications. https://www.redlineoil.com/cv-2-grease

 

Don't forget that additionally, at least on Gen 1, the manual calls for the Poly-Urea grease for the primary shaft and the secondary shaft and collar .

 

Here is what the X machine service manual calls for and quantities.
I'm going Tinkseal
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Polyurea grease is designed for high speed electric motors. Yamaha decided to go with this grease because it resists drying. However polyurea grease still does dry out and the lack of lubrication compounds the wear on your cvt sheave wipe seals. I have seen Rhino sheaves seized on the collar and worn seals that allow grease to merge with the belt area.

This was why I designed Tinkseal. When Tinkseal drys, it leaves nano-particles behind to continue lubricating dry. Tinkseal also keeps the wipe seals from wearing by building on both the rubber surface as well as the steel. You do not need a "fancy" wipe seal machined grove on your sheave, Tinkseal will not migrate under the seal into the belt area. :thinkerg:

 

Tink Seal on the primary rollers? Please confirm.

 

Can I get another opinion on this? Can’t find Ultramatic grease.

 

Yes I'm going to test Tinkseal.

I've got 2500+ miles on the car and I'm tired of waiting on grease & parts. I need to get in there and clean/inspect for peace of mind, it's driving me crazy... lol.

Part suppliers are sitting on my weights that I wanted to test (OEM 16 & 18g) so I'm thinking of pulling the trigger on HV weights also.

 

Very interesting as I search quite a bit a month back and before for a substitute. Ultramatic is not available for some reason online etc and any obscure hits put it around $52 CND.

I am waiting to get approval on m engine oil burning TSB repair. Dealer has tested and said yes to Yamaha the need the kit. Yamaha it holding out, no reply as of yet.

The dealer says its about a 3hr service charge to do the CVT service (maybe they're doing both primary & secondary, if so I'd be ok) so its going to cost $$$ but I won't have to do it again for a long time as its ~ 7000km now.

 

3hrs... LMFAO. ... Is it the Techs first day on the job ? :lmao:

 

Nope, long established dealer!!! I seem long to me having done a cleanout on my Kingquad years ago. Dust only as not grease is used. It takes me a while. but I don't work by the hour and don't want to make a mistake!!

 

They dont call them stealerships for nothing.... hahahahahaha

 

It's probably book shop rates. Which may include the removal of carrier and covers. Maybe get them to adjust at least a half hour off their quote. If they say they already have, ask them to show you the shop rate quote book to verify. Or call another dealer. Might even verify with another dealer first so you can deal with it in one call.

Keep in mind that Shop rates are established as a fixed number as to what you will pay but the mechanic can do quicker to make more money. Typically Mechanic gets a fixed amount so he can have several projects going at same time waiting for things to dry or parts to come in, etc. Many senior mechanics can paid 50 to 70 hours hours in a 40 hour week.

 

I have been in mine twice (X2 not Gen 1) and I would not bet I could do it a third time in three hours or less. It’s not a race, it’s a labor of love, but to me three book hours for primary and secondary is about right. Takes me an hour to get ready to pull off the primary. Not sure how many plastics have to come off on a Gen 1.

 

I thought is the rollers and sheave done which is the primary and not the one with the HD compress spring that was coming apart and cleaning, greasing.

 

The secondary also requires service. It has pins that ride in ramps with grease to enable the secondary to move. Here is my X2 but yours is similar.

 

The pin holes elongated or worn out? Also the spring cup does it have any gouging? Measure the thickness please on the new one vs old.

 

Sorry, that picture is from the last time I went in. Everything looked good so I turned the cup and put it back together.

I have the new metal spring cup but no Ultramatic grease. Can’t find it in stock anywhere. I know to use Tink Seal on the secondary and on the inner sleeve of the primary. But I’m having the belt bark issue so I don’t want to go in to change the secondary spring cup until I have grease and rollers for grease in the primary.

Can I use Tink Seal in the primary rollers instead of Ultramatic? I would need to order it from Hunterworks so more delays. I only have the 1 oz. that came with the sheave.

 

I don't see why you can't use tinkseal on your primary roller weights. If I had issues with belt bark that's what I would be using.

 

Well I'll be the tester (though I heard there were others other than SKELLEY521 who said he would) and run Tink Seal in my Hunterworks primary with Dr. Pulley 18 gram weights. I ordered 8 oz from Hunterworks and they usually ship fast so if all goes well this will be my next Sunday project. I know you guys are wanting more info on the new metal secondary spring cup.

 

You will only need about 3.4 ounces of TinkSeal in your primary. TinkSeal is sold by weight and though marked 4 ounces, often contain as much as 5 ounces per tub.

 

I am not testing TinkSeal as an alternative to Yamaha’s Ultramatic grease. I am designing a product that will be superior replacement. I have no doubt TinkSeal will perform beautifully in Yamaha’s Ultramatic CVT systems. I am testing TinkSeal in order to get the viscosity and consistency correct.

Once I get the composition correct, it won’t matter if you are using TinkSeal with HV, Yamaha OEM or DrPulley Round/OD weights. It will just work. TinkSeal contains 7 different nano particles, two lubricants that work on a molecular level, one of them is thermally conductive and is used in the microprocessor industry.

Hunterworks sells it for $23. It’s not a 50 dollar tub you have to keep on your shelf to use only for that one thing. TinkSeal has multiple uses from CVT’s to Firearms. It’s a really great product.

 

Started the CVT service today.

Removed most of the plastics, probably more than needed but it's easy enough.
As much as I've buried this car in the mud, I'm amazed the housing is clean. I will grease that joint going back.

I don't know how far I will get today as I'm missing my deep well 27mm from the rack and my deep well 1-1/16" is busted. Amazon is dropping new sockets in a day or two now.
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Pics of the support bearing. After inspecting the bearing, it appeared that the grease had broke down and a thick burnt oil film was laying in the bottom.

I checked the service manual to see what Yamaha used. Looks like oil and LS grease. It looks horrid to me as a Millwright and I'll be packing that with Tinkseal also.
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Cleaned seal & bearing. I pulled seal w/ seal puller. Planned on replacing the seal, but after cleaning the bearing, I don't like how it sounds so I will be replacing it if it's in stock.

I don't think the seal was installed properly. You can see in the pic where I pulled the seal (small dent past 3 o'clock), but the inner seal lip is deformed as is the spring.

Order placed @ Babbitts, so we'll see.
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