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Discussion starter · #61 ·
We didn't get stuck so not bad for a hard pack tire. I tried to stay out of the existing ruts but I slid into them. A dedicated/more aggressive tire may have kept me in my track but the side lugs kept me going forward once I fell into the ruts. I think they're perfect for my area, which is mostly rocky trails with some occasional light mud.
 
I've had similar results as MassiveOverkill in the mud with Terrabites. Never got stuck and didn't need to drop the hammer to get through any mud yet. There is a ton of traction/grip, but obviously they are not a dedicated mud tire.
 
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Discussion starter · #65 · (Edited)
Did some more work yesterday:

- Installed a new secondary spring cup to replace the gouged one I had (no pictures of this).
- Installed some different primary weights, just slightly lighter than stock at 21 grams, the 17.5 grams were a little too light and my MPG went down by 3. We'll see how these do.
Please remember my goal is better-than-stock low end, good gas mileage for cruising, and maximum highway speed, so my goals may not match everyone else's, especially you
mudders. (no pictures of this).
- Insulated the driver side radiator hose. After extended riding, heat soak from the radiator could eventually be noticed. Keep in mind that I've blocked off the upper front wheel wells so air doesn't come in through those areas. Well I no longer get as much dust or cold air from the steering wheel or other crannies, but as a result, there's no air flow through the front cab and I suspect the tunnel area
- I don't know why the X4 got the shaft on the muffler cover since it came out before the X2, but I liked the look of it and retrofitted mine. I only bought the cover and 4 screw covers and used my own bolts and covered it with Thermotec heat/sound wrap. The cover is only $20 bucks and is part B8K-F194H-00-00 The plastic caps are part #2MB-F143A-00-00 and you'll need 4.
- Changed out my air filter. I bought a new one so I can clean the old one at my leisure. Paper filter underneath the foam still looked good so I reused it.

I put some aluminum heat tape on the top and front of the CVT air box since the radiator hose that transports the hottest coolant runs right on top of it. Figured it would help the CVT airbox stay a little cooler. I also installed my CVT drain plug mod, which is simply installing a 3/8" barb elbow which I'll attach a clear vinyl hose to and route it the rear wheel well where it will be more convenient to drain if need be.

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To cut down on the heat emitted from the radiator hose I cut a piece of pool noodle to cover the metal pipe and then used hot water line insulation for the rest of the coolant line.

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I was able to eliminate the zip ties since the insulation keeps everything in place. The insulation will not only reduce heat soak but it also keeps the radiator hose from touching the CVT box or the plastic panels. That other hose coming out of the CVT near the top of the primary is my CVT blow-out port.

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X2 muffler cover.

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Covered with Thermotec.

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I supposed I could have just painted/powder coated it but it was more labor-intensive than just installing the plastic cover. Here's how it looks stock.

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After a few runs on the trails it should be as dusty as the rear tailgate. I think it looks much better myself.

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You would think after almost a year and with having my airbox lid swiss cheesed my original air filter would be filthy right? Wrong.

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Yes that's the stock air filter element after almost one year and 3500 miles. Looks nearly brand new. I think having the airbox up high keeps most of the nasty stuff out. There weren't even any bugs, leaves, or other debris in the airbox.

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The tabs for the air filter frame aren't obvious so here's a shot of the left one engaged and the right one popped out. No need to worry if they break because the main air filter box lid keeps pressure on that cap.

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You can see those tabs easier with the cap removed

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The oil Yamaha uses on their filters is VERY tacky. If you bought a new filter to swap out between cleanings, it's already oiled. Open the bag but don't take the filter out. Use the bag to work the filter over the air filter frame.

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Slide the bag up as you work the air filter down.

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Make sure you work the bottom of the filter into the lip retainer and you'll have a lip at the top as well.

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Finally, reinstall the air filter cap.

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Nice write up. Thanks for the time you put into posting here and keeping the info flow going.
 
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Surprised you didn't find the mouse in your airbox that chewed all those holes in the lid.... All kidding aside with that much extra air intake that filter really isn't bad.
 
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Discussion starter · #69 ·
Just got back from a 4 hour ride and between the putting Thermotec on the tunnel plastic and putting foam insulation around the radiator hose, the radiator hose made the biggest difference. I actually think it lowered my engine temps a few degrees as well.

The plastic next to my calf isn't part of the top tunnel piece, so I wasn't able to wrap it with Thermotec and after some time running it would get really uncomfortable to touch that plastic with my leg. It's only warm to the touch now after extended riding.

So those of you with X2/X4's with any sort of heat problems, especially with a cab, insulate the radiator rubber hose and part of the steel tube that runs along the driver side and it will make a big difference and is easy to do. I wish I had a CVT temp gauge installed because I bet it's running much cooler to boot.
 
Great post! Thank you!
 
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Discussion starter · #71 · (Edited)
Big boy mods

It really bothers me that the X2/X4 is off the table for some of our bigger riders because of the stupid placement of the door latch and leg room. I believe the mods listed are easy to do and may make the X2/X4 viable for those who can't fit into a stock X2/X4 and may make existing big-n-tall owners more comfortable.

UPDATE: See my SaveAKidney post: https://www.wolverineforums.com/for...erine-x2-x4-general-discussion/26814-massiveoverkill-s-saveakidney-project.html

Here is probably the most-hated thing about the X2/X4 (I would put 1" less suspension travel as #2). This ridiculously-placed door latch. Yamaha engineers, I praise you guys all the time, but you all were drunk when you designed this.

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I've removed the side panel and reinstalled the door latch. These pictures also show how much storage space you X2/X4 owners are missing out on because Yamaha decided not to give you access to it. Never fear though, it's easy to make it useable, https://www.wolverineforums.com/for...eral-discussion/18258-yamaha-wolverine-x2-x4-mods-tips-tricks-5.html#post222282. You'll notice I added some black pool noodle to block off air gaps.

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Closeup of the door latch with the outer plastic removed. Those upper and lower tabs could be ground off as they're only there to help hold the plastic on.

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The blue tape shows where you would cut (bottom of tape not top). I'm not going to cut mine because I fit just fine. If anyone local or visiting want to be Guinea pigs, I'll be happy to mod yours and update this post. The outer plastic would have to be cut as well. It could be cut to match the one you made in the metal but since the metal is painted, you could trim the outer plastic back to the diagonal crease and it would almost look factory. Look how much material could be removed that would not be protruding into your back. Now you could go further and do a vertical cut and round any sharp corners.

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The next part of the solution is to get more leg room. We accomplish this by raising the seat and then moving it back.

With the seat bottom removed you can see the stock seat mounting bolts, just 4 of them. This makes it pretty easy to mod the seat bracket height using a number of methods. I chose the easiest for illustration purposes, which is putting wood blocks between the vehicle frame and the seat frame. They're just laying there and if you used wood you obviously would cut and drill it appropriately so you could insert longer bolts. You could fabricate riser brackets from metal or even use long bolts in conjunction with sleeve spacers. Whatever you use, it should be pretty easy to do.

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To be able to move the seat back further we need to detach the center roll cage brace. I'm removing it here to get clearance but the permanent solution would be to make simple brackets for each side of the upper brace, which would be easy to make using flat stock. The bottom hand-hold bar could have it's mounting holes elongated and then a sleeve or washers along with a longer bolt use to move it back. You're basically relocating the middle brace back about 2-3"

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As you can see here, the limit to this mod is the engine cover, which I suppose you could mod as well to get more backwards clearance but the seat frame will also hit the seat belt assembly, so it would be a futile effort unless you relocated that as well.

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Results, stock measurement to the seam is 19"

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After modding we get to 20.5", keep in mind that your legs are straighter and you may gain more than 1.5" additional knee clearance to prevent them from hitting the front console

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As I said, anyone local who wants to be a guinea pig, you buy the materials and I'll be happy to do the mods so I can update this post with 'after' pictures.

Some things to consider:

-obvious legal consequences if you're in an accident
-moving the seat up also reduces your head clearance with the roof panel. You need to see how much clearance you have to work with before doing this mod. If for some reason you have plenty, you can raise the seat even further than I have here
-your center of gravity is raised and it may affect handling and rollover characteristics
-rear passengers will have slightly less legroom (which you can gain back doing my footwell mod)
-You can also remove the shoulder bolsters for even more room: https://www.wolverineforums.com/for...25582-i-wonder-if-removal-those-shoulder-bolsters-will-make-my-life-better.html

I really hate to see someone buy a Gen 1 over an X2/X4 because of space (if you choose it because you can get a deal/it's cheaper, it has more suspension clearance, etc. I can understand that). I think it's much easier to mod the X2/X4 for more space than it is to get more power/make quieter/beef up components/reduce heat, etc. on a Gen 1 Wolverine.

UPDATE: The gas pedal free play can be adjusted so if you need even more clearance there you can adjust it:

https://www.wolverineforums.com/for...eral-discussion/18258-yamaha-wolverine-x2-x4-mods-tips-tricks-3.html#post194185
 
Wow that really is a crap ton of space under that seat. I cant believe yamaha didn't put an access panel you could pop off to get in there as needed.
 
On the Gen 1 that's where the 2nd battery kit is located.
 
I noticed that space when I was removing my oil tank. I'm going to get in there and look at it more closely. I bet I could fit a medium sized Rubbermaid bin in there.
 
Discussion starter · #75 ·
On the Gen 1 that's where the 2nd battery kit is located.
The bass port speaker and heater system also go there (obviously you can't have all 3 there and would have to choose).

I noticed that space when I was removing my oil tank. I'm going to get in there and look at it more closely. I bet I could fit a medium sized Rubbermaid bin in there.
I initially put a bin in there but ended up putting some carpet padding down on the floor. I had to make a vertical wall that goes along the right side of the seat frame to block off heat from the radiator hose since my tunnel compartment was no longer sealed. That vertical wall created a storage compartment, preventing items from falling into the tunnel area.

I access my stuff from the rear passenger footwell since I have an X4, but you can do one of two things: Cut the plastic underneath your seat, which would be easiest or install dzus fasteners or other quick-release fasteners on your outside plastic so it can be removed easily and access your stuff that way.
 
Discussion starter · #76 ·
Couldn't stand it anymore and took my cutter to my driver side rear passenger foot well.

Piece that was cut out.

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I'll have to fabricate a new wall piece and floorboard, but you can see how much floor space Yamaha was hiding.

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Another angle

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Now you can fit taller adult out back. In addition, it's easier to get in and out of as you're not having to bend your legs and hoist your butt as high as before. One could mod the other side footwell, but you wouldn't get the additional storage as the gas tank is under the front passenger seat and you would definitely want to have a replacement wall already fabricated as the oil filter is on that side and would be exposed without it.

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You're also gaining about 1.5 cubic feet of extra storage space under the driver seat.

I plan on modding the seat belt bracket, which should allow me to service the sheave in under half the time as the driver seat no longer has to come out, neither does the pillar bodywork and it should allow me to change the CVT belt in the field.

To maximize space I moved my cargo nets around for better visibility\storage.

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I reinstalled that floor piece I cut out, looks a little better. Blue foam thing is temporary until I get off my but to make something out of plastic.

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Getting under the dash is really easy compared to previous models (to avoid confusion, in the picture below, you're removing the firewall cover, the dash stays in place). Remove the windshield (easy if you have the OEM), remove 5 allen head screws on the dash and 4 10 mm bolts on on the front and pull the plastic panel out. On the right there's a plethora of pre-wired plugs. No more need to buy the expensive Yamaha accessory splitters. I imagine a harness kit would be cheaper (will update this post if I find a part number). The drive-by-wire throttle unit is on the left.

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See my follow-up post for making your own plug:

https://www.wolverineforums.com/for...-electrical/14962-wire-kit-yamaha-5km-86171-00-00-a-post209825.html #post209825
That's where I'm going to install my fuse blocks, breakers, and stuff. Looks like a good starting spot to run wiring anywhere I want.
 
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Discussion starter · #80 · (Edited)
Hit 4K
 
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