I'd get it to the level it needs to be at. The manual doesn't mention overfilling but for the coin you dropped on this rig why take the chance. Remember not to thread the dipstick when checking oil level. I'd use this gadget if you need to remove any.
https://www.googleadservices.com/pa...C0NAYtLdWnhcQ5ow&ctype=5&q=&ved=0ahUKEwjMju607crXAhXCeSYKHRMdDoEQ9aACCD4&adurl=

 

Well, if there's no drawbacks to overfilling, you could get the benefit of added capacity. The manual does say not to overfill but it doesn't do it in a 'Danger Will Robinson!!' manner. The dry sump reservoir is easy enough to drain that one could do it easily to bring it to the proper level. The drain is fairly small.

UPDATE: Notice that someone recently liked this post and wanted to point out that if you overfill, oil will get blown into the engine intake ducting, so don't do it!

 

Surpassed my 20 hour mark and changed out all fluids out for synthetic. Mobile 1 75W90 in all 3 gear boxes and changed the engine oil...........what a PITA (changing the engine oil, gearboxes were pretty easy)

Some discrepancies:

-Yamaha UK says engine oil capacity is 4.4L: https://www.yamaha-motor.eu/uk/prod...or.eu/uk/products/side-by-side/leisure/wolverine-x4.aspx?view=featurestechspecs
-My manual on pages 10-1 and 10-2 calls for 3.3L with oil and filter change

Some pointers:

Page 8-14 of the manual shows a folded piece or trough to protect from getting oil on the frame when draining the oil reservoir. I used a folded piece of cardboard but turned it 90 degrees as it's much easier to keep in place that way than what the picture shows. The oil reservoir drain bolt is 10 mm.

There are indeed 2 oil drain plugs (12 mm socket) you need to drain.

Do the oil filter last and jack up the rear end so the tire is out of the way and you'll have more room to remove the oil filter. You want to be very careful using anything but a cap end wrench as the oil sending unit is right next to the filter and I can see a jaw-type wrench break it off. I already had one of these for my RAV4 and it fit perfectly: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XTAGHU0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yamaha does get kudos for using reusable zip ties and using separate zip tie holders and zip ties (previously they were one unit and if you broke one you were screwed, now you can just replace the zip tie by inserting a new one if you screw it up). Depress the zip tie ratchet tab and open the zip tie that holds the wiring harness to the frame. You can now move it out of the way for more clearance to the oil filter

The oil filter on the X4 is 5GH-13440-60. I was going to post what I'm using as a replacement but I'd rather not tempt fate and start an oil filter war. I will tempt fate on the oil I'm using, which is Mobile 1 0W40 EU formula.

After going through the warm up procedure and checking the oil (not screwing the dipstick in all the way), with the hash marks all the way full, I ended up with about 3.7 quarts

 

http://www.wolverineforums.com/foru...wolverine-x4-general-discussion/24858-x4-oil-puddling-intake-ducting-issue.html

 

I just changed the oil in my X2 and it was mostly as you described above. No zip ties to deal with but there is something called a quick fastener screw on the right rear access panel which I never did figure out how to remove. I did it with force.

My manual also says 3.3L of oil with an oil filter change and I used about that amount to get it 2/3 of the way up the dipstick marks.

I almost added the oil to the cylinder head cap hole because it looks like where you would add oil. But I was reading the manual carefully because it was a weird oil change and noticed it said to add oil to the OIL TANK! They should print that part in BOLD! Would it hurt anything if you added the oil in the cylinder head cap instead of the oil tank?

I haven't done the transmission or differentials yet. I had enough just changing the engine oil. Nothing was hard about it, but there are a lot of things to do and they're in different areas of the machine.

 

I had the same concern with the head cap. I did put some in there but then stopped. Does anyone know what it's for if not for oil?

 

When draining the oil out of the dry sump area, the manual calls for opening that cap, which will allow air in so that the oil will drain easier instead of the draining oil having to fight vacuum.

 

Not sure about the manual, but my dealers service guy said to add a small amount of oil to the engine when changing the oil, can't say if it really is necessary or not.

 

Has anyone used rotella t6 5w-40? Should cover a wide temp range.

 

If I remember correctly, the X4 has a wet clutch? I would not run any non motorcycle oriented oil in a vehicle with a wet clutch.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

https://rotella.shell.com/en_us/pro...4/b1efec99b9e83f216e38df79c5353f4c43d17a2677da8dd08400c13d51318343/t6-5w-40.pdf


JASO MA/MA 2 approved for wet clutches.

I use either this or Mobil 1 0W40 EU Formula.

 

If I remember correctly, the X4 has a wet clutch? I would not run any non motorcycle oriented oil in a vehicle with a wet clutch.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

 

I didn't document my first oil change so here's my second oil change tutorial.

You'll need a socket set, a cup-style oil filter wrench, I bought this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XTAGHU0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1, drain pan, funnel, oil filter, and oil. The Yamaha oil filter is 5GH-13440-70, which is the latest version of the Yamaha SxS/ATV OEM filter. You'll see numbers ranging from 5GH-13440-30-00 to 5GH-13440-60-00. If you can't find the '70', the others should work.

I was using a Purolator PL14610 because it has more capacity, but I can no longer recommend this filter due to the changes that may prevent full gasket sealing. Others are using Mobil 1 M1-110A with succcess. If you care about your warranty, use the Yamaha OEM part.

You'll need 3.5 quarts of oil. I'm a big synthetic proponent. As long as the oil is JASO MA approved or isn't Energy/Resource Conserving you should be OK to use with the X2/X4's wet clutch. I use either Mobil 1 0W40 European Car Formula (Non Energy/Resource Conserving) or Rotella T6 (JASO MA approved) , both available from Wal Mart. If you want to use Yamalube, I recommend this: https://shopyamaha.com/product/details/10w-40-gp-racing-spec-full-synthetic-rs4gp or https://shopyamaha.com/product/deta...rformance-full-synthetic?b=Yamalube+Engine+Oils&d=30|30&ls=yamaha-motor-company. If you use Yamalube and have an essentially stock vehicle you can take advantage of their 20 year / 100,000 mile warranty (make sure you read the limitations/exclusions).

You can use various manufacturer's motorcycle/ATV/UTV formulations as well such as this https://mobiloil.com/en/motor-oils/mobil-1/mobil-1-4t-motorcycle-oil

If you want to buy new copper washers you can but I've never had an issue reusing them as I clean my bolt mating surfaces thoroughly. If some sand or dirt gouged your existing washer, sand it smooth/clean

Normally I'll wash my vehicle before any maintenance, but it's winter with freezing temps. Since we're changing the oil, I'll spray some cleaner/degreaser around the oil filter area and hose it off. You obviously don't want to do this on a hot engine.

Remove the nylon oil check dipstick on the dry sump reservoir located under the engine cover and also remove the black valve cover oil plug, which IS NOT a fill plug so the engine oil will drain easier.

Drain the dry sump reservoir. It helps if you make an oil diverter to prevent the oil from dribbling on your chassis as per the manual. When finished, reinstall the dry sump reservoir drain plug

I choose to change the oil filter next and drain the dry sump pan last.

Jack up the passenger rear tire for a few reasons:

- it will give you some extra room to work with
- it will help drain oil out of the filter into the pan
- when you remove the oil filter, you'll get oil drip from the filter but you won't get so much coming out of the engine

You can also remove the rear tire if you desire more working room.

Remove the lower rear wheel well cover. There are 4 10mm bolts, 2 up top and 2 recessed underneath as well as the push-pin fastener

You may need to move the wiring harness out of your way but be careful as part of it is attached to the oil pressure sender unit. Thoughtful Yamaha engineers provided reusable zip ties that are separate from the zip tie mounts. Previously Yamaha used one-use all-in-one zip ties. Simply pry the tab back releasing the ratchet and pull it open (I used a screw driver inserted into the loop to open the loop up). If you get frustrated, cut the zip tie off and you can insert a new one through the separate zip tie holder. I moved the wiring so it was laying on top of the oil filter, pushed back far enough so my oil filter cup-style wrench would fit on. Do not use a 3/8" ratchet but use a socket as the socket will be less-likely to break or strip your wrench. Also before removing the oil filter, take a rag and clean up around the base of the oil filter as dirt likes to accumulate here and cleaning it now is easier than cleaning it with the filter removed where dirt can fall into the exposed base. Be careful around the oil pressure sending unit.

Here you can see the oil filter removed and the red circle shows the oil pressure sending unit, something you don't want to bump with other style oil filter wrenches.

If you have OEM/aftermarket skid plates you'll need to place a small shallow dish below the oil filter to catch some oil, or you can remove the side skid plate, or drill a hole in it to match the steel opening. I used a piece of lexan packaging to catch my oil but it was hard to get in/out. There's really not enough room to make an oil diverter.

New filter installed. Make sure you lubricate the gasket and hand tighten.

Put the wiring harness back in place and secure the reusable zip tie. Reinstall the lower wheel well guard. You may want to start the lower bolts by hand a few threads as it's hard to find the holes. Lower the jack.

Now to drain the dry sump oil pan. There are two bolts very close to each other.

While you're draining the engine oil you want to also check your engine air intake drain check tube as oil can accumulate in your engine air intake. The nature of the dry sump system causes this, especially if your oil level is overfilled. More about this issue here: https://www.wolverineforums.com/for...verine-x2-x4-general-discussion/24858-x4-oil-puddling-intake-ducting-issue.html

Reinstall the two drain plugs, reinstall the valve cover oil plug, place a funnel in the dry sump reservoir and add 2.5 quarts of oil TO THE DRY SUMP RESERVOIR, NOT THE ENGINE VALVE COVER PLUG!!!! I added 3 since I was using a higher capacity oil filter. Temporarily reinstall the dry sump reservoir dipstick but leave the engine cover off.

Start your engine, check for leaks and if possible take it for a short ride to warm up the oil (put your engine cover some place secure). If you plan on warming it up in place, make sure you have plenty of ventilation. The manual states to let it warm up for at least 10 minutes. Once the engine is warmed up to 140, let it idle for 10 seconds (if you took it for a ride) and shut off the engine. Check your oil level by removing the reservoir dipstick, wipe it clean and reinsert it ONLY TO THE BOTTOM OF THE THREADS, DO NO SCREW IT BACK IN. If your oil level is halfway up the hatched area I personally would leave it to avoid the aforementioned overfilling issue. If it's not, add enough oil to bring it halfway up the hatched area.

Reinstall everything and that's it.

Also see Jason's oil change tutorial here: https://www.wolverineforums.com/forum/274-x2-x4-how/25696-oil-change-time.html

 

Owners manual says not to use oil that is of diesel engines. T6 is is just that type oil. sorry

 

I have be using rotella T-6 since my 2007 rhino. No problems with the engine braking. Yamaha has separated the clutch and engine oil, big improvement. On my 20 hour service my yamalube was so clean it I decided to stay with it. I bargained for a discount on dealer products.

 

Thousands of miles on T6 here as well. Wet clutch and engine oil are still shared though. It's the transmission that's been divorced from the engine, and now uses gear oil.

 

Thanks for correcting me!

 

Just performed my 3rd oil change at 6700 miles, and wanted to address some concerns and one additional tip.

UPDATE: After my latest oil change, I can no longer recommend the Purolator 14610 as I had more seepage this time that caused me concern over the previous changes with the same filter.

I made an oil filter 'boat' from the bottom of a squarish plastic peanut container. It measures 2" deep and 4.5" x 5". It's perfect for getting into the tight confines to place under the longer filter I'm using. If you're using the shorter stock Yamaha filter you'll have even more room. You could probably find a suitable piece of disposable Tupperware as well.

Pay attention to the large nut on the threaded oil filter boss

Make sure you remove your oil filter boat BEFORE installing the new filter, otherwise you won't be able to get it out a the new filter will block it......well you'll have to siphon the oil out of it first if you forget.

There has been some concern with the Purolator PL14610 oil filter not having sufficient depth at the base and creating clearance problems and not allowing the oil filter to seat properly.

Here is the filter on the left I just took off compared to a new filter on the right

You can see where the oil filter makes contact with that nut, but just barely. Now look at the oil filter seals on both. You can clearly see that the used oil filter on the left has it's seal making full contact.

I'm not worried that on the X2/X4, using this oil filter is going to cause some sort of catastrophic oil loss or spray. At worst it may cause minor weapage, certainly not enough to cause a loss of oil to the amount that you would detect it. I believe I have around 2000 miles on this latest oil change and have not had to add oil.

Take it for what it's worth. If your not comfortable, go with OEM. If you're using another brand filter, I suggest you check your clearances. I've been using the same model oil filter for 6700 miles and no catastrophes and while there is mud caked around that area, I didn't notice anything wet on the floorboard beneath it.

Almost forgot. Do your oil changes just before temps in your area get hot. The wet clutch's shearing effect on oil reduces its viscosity and if you do your oil changes in the summer, it should stay good for the summer temps and hopefully not shear down until fall/winter arrives where the lower viscosity won't matter as much at cooler temps.

 

May as well do a follow-up and show oil levels at various temps. I had drained the oil tank, both drain plugs, and changed the oil filter and added 3.5 quarts. First oil check was after coming back to town and letting it idle 10 seconds, shutting her off and then waiting at least 10 seconds to check the oil level, inserting the dipstick flush WITHOUT screwing it in

This was with the engine at 195 F with the fan running when I shut it off. The oil level is just slightly above the sunlight reflection giving a false reading (not to be taken as the sunlight giving a false reading but the level shown here) of being way overfilled.

I let the engine cool off a little, started it up, let it idle 10 seconds, shut it off and waited at least 10 seconds, Engine temp was 150 F and it's right at the Full mark.

Rinse and repeat at 113 F. I also realized that I needed a closer background for my camera to focus properly.

So as you can see, unless you always check your oil level at ~140-150 F, you're not going to get an accurate reading, BUT if you check it cold and it's probably halfway up the stick, chances are you're good to go.

 

Just did my 1st service last weekend. Found it overfilled from the dealer. Had all of 4qts or better in it. Not surprised at all with the idiots/incompetents they have working at dealerships these days. I filled mine to the recommended 3.5qts. Check mine at 150-170 and is in the middle of the dipstick. Seems ridiculous having 3 drain plugs just for the engine. The trans, front diff and rear final are easy peasy.

 

This morning I started up the engine, let it idle for 10 seconds, shut it off and waited 10 seconds and inserted the dipstick to the threads (bone dry):

The point if it's not apparent is that on a cold engine, oil isn't even registering on the dipstick. I screwed the dipstick all the way in and it barely registered in the hash mark area.

 

I noticed the same. Has to be 140 or higher it seems like then registers fine in the middle of the dipstick with 3.5qts. My Suzuki DRZ400s bike is the same has to be warmed up to register oil on the dipstick. When it's cold it doesn't register oil either.

 

In any engine it need more than seconds before you can check the oil level. Also oil does not expand so cold or hot should not be detectable. Transmission fluid is the only exception I am aware of but we're not using it in these vehicles anywhere.

As for T6, its approved for diesel but may also be for gas engines. It can be confirmed with shell if you really want to know. I started using it in my push gas mower and later likely in my ride around tractor.

 

In any engine it need more than seconds before you can check the oil level.

I don't think this is a true statement.
Any dry-sump engine, Yes.
A wet sump can be checked after sitting any amount of time in my experiences.

 

I calculate .116 quarts expansion of 3.5 quarts initial volume going from 65 F to 150 F

https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/volumetric-temperature-expansion-d_315.html

 

So is Yamaha the only game in town when it comes to oil filters? I thought I was ordering genuine Yamaha off Ebay, got it in and its something called MOTADIN?!?!?!? Is that who maybe makes the Yamaha filter? I don't plan on using unless someone tells me different and I bought several, sending them back. They were almost as expensive as Yamaha. I am a huge fan of Napa Gold filters, used Purolator on the RHino I had, but this thread seems to say nope to that

 

I did a quick search of the name and couldn't find any information. I would send em back if it were me.

 

Here's what I'm using .
https://www.amazon.com/WIX-51358XP-Oil-Filter-Pack/dp/B01CPH574E

 

Thanks, there should really be a sticky for that kind of stuff, oil filter crossover, must do mods, things left undone at the factory, etc.

 

Does this oil system on the 2019 x4 have a low level shutdown?

 

It has low oil pressure shutdown, but not low oil level shutdown

 

Ok thanks. I just had it serviced and let’s just say it didn’t go well. First ride it was shutting down and then after 25 miles and a couple shutdowns I started looking and see it was low 1.5qt low. Everything sounds good still just wondering if I should look for mayor have more damage.

 

It's there to protect the engine so it's doing its job. I doubt any serious damage was done but maybe you can milk an extended warranty out of it.

 

Wix (now Mann+Hummell) makes the NAPA filters in Gastonia, NC. I've seen them change the paint color and labels on the fly. Same filter different labeling when it's the same media.

 

Right! Napa filters are easier for me, and pretty reasonable locally. The Gold is my usual, never really understood the difference until I got to comparing for this machine. Have you heard what the difference is in the Gold and Platinum? I know the Gold doesn't have the wire mesh, but I think both have a silicon check valve, which is a must. I wonder if the media is indeed coarser on the Platinum to allow faster flow? Here is the thread I was reading, can't believe I've turned into an oil nerd! https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4058643/1

 

I hope not but thanks for your input