[MassiveOverkill]

I always in all vehicles run what the manual says for oil , it may be old school , but that’s what I do, and I can’t imagine that they would not have tested the formulation etc, I do wonder why one would switch to synthetic in this engine if it was non synthetic to start? Is it better for engine or gears etc,

The debate on Synthetic vs Mineral. Left twix, Right Twix. I've read as much as I can absorb web wide. The thing that sticks in my mind is that the molecules in Synthetic are able to sized much more consistently than Mineral. Thus more equal coverage across surfaces. After reading info here I'm in process of switching all my small motors to Mobil 5w30. Mainly due to availability and cost of big jugs from the local Wally World. Change it often and i'm not sure it would matter all that much.

http://www.wolverineforums.com/forum/images/smilies/popcorn.gif

Synthetic flows much better in extreme cold temperatures and does not break down like conventional oil under extreme heat. Synthetic or synthetic blends are becoming factory fill in many cars. Toyota, Porsche, GM, etc. The most wear occurs during dry startup (I'm sure dry sump systems minimize this) and lighter weight synthetics pump easier/faster. They also reduce friction to increase fuel efficiency, which is another reason why many auto makers are using them as factory fill to help meet EPA requirements. New engines are also being built with tighter tolerances, hence the trend for lightweight formulas (0W20). You're not going to see 10K mile oil changes with conventional oil either.

The saving grace of using a wet clutch is also a detriment in that you have to choose an oil that doesn't have friction modifiers/reducers so you can't just throw any oil in there. That's why Yamaha specifies not to use Energy/Resource Conserving oils and recommend JASO MA certified oils. Rotella and Mobil 1 0W40 EU formulas are two popular oils that don't have the Energy/Resource Conserving ratings. The other bad thing about having a wet clutch is that its good at shearing motor oil (that's bad) and motor oils with wide spread between cold and hot specifications tend to break down easier due to shear, so for example a 0W40 oil isn't going to stand up to shear as good as a 15W40 oil with all other things being equal.

My new-to-me 2017 Acadia is my first direct injection engine (GDI). I've had to come up to speed on direct injection as a result and have learned a lot. A common problem with direct injection engines is that they are prone to carbon buildup/coking on the back of the intake valves fairly quickly. The reason for this is because there's no longer fuel to clean the back of intake valves as it's injected directly into the combustion chamber. Some engine manufacturers fix this by adding injector(s) back into intake. On my 2017 Acadia, they redesigned the PCV system so it's more efficient and reduces crankcase oil mist/vapor from hitting the back of the intake valves. In learning all of this I learned that some oils are better at resisting vaporization or have low volatility. Synthetic oils as mentioned above are better under extreme heat and should produce less PCV oil vapor as they are less volatile. When an engine is designed where lubricating oil is sprayed at hot parts like pistons (which I believe the new 847 cc engine features this) in order to cool them down, you have greater chance of the oil vaporizing.

While I'm not ruling out that my use of synthetic isn't contributing to the oil in the intake, all that I've learned tells me that it probably isn't unless it's due to more blow by, which switching to a heavier weight synthetic should solve. Keep in mind that no one who's reported so far has my kind of mileage on their units so it's still to early to make any hard conclusions.

If you want to see the benefits of synthetics in your gearboxes, pick a cold day of around 10F and change your diffs/gearbox factory fills out with synthetic. Your conventional gearbox oil will come out like molasses and probably take an hour or more to fully drain. When you see how easily the synthetic pours back in you'll need no further convincing of its benefits.

 

[Island boy]

Hi.. any updates on this topic i.e possible causes/fixes etc? Have a brand new machine with 14.1 hrs and I noticed the same this morning. About half a teaspoon of oil under the machine in the garage.

 

[MassiveOverkill]

Hi.. any updates on this topic i.e possible causes/fixes etc? Have a brand new machine with 14.1 hrs and I noticed the same this morning. About half a teaspoon of oil under the machine in the garage.

The cause is most likely typical of a dry sump oil system. I don't know if there will be a Yamaha fix unless more report the problem. Pull your clear drain inspection tube off and see how much more oil is in the intake.

 

[Jimbo]

Ok will do , is that filter ok ??, it was sticky not like oil sticky but something else ,

Filter oil is VERY sticky, it's supposed to be that way,and needs to be reapplied after cleaning.

 

[SHINERBAUCK]

Hello everyone I'm the new guy who was just cruising the internet looking for answers and found this forum and this thread specific to what my machine was doing.
I just purchased a 2018 x4 SE and at 30 miles I had this issue come up. Took it to the shop and they told me the oil tank was overfilled causing the issue. The drained the tank so they said but took it for a 20 mile ride came home noticed oil in the floor again pulled the clear cap and about 5oz hit the floor. I checked the oil tank again ( should have checked when I got it back ) and it was still over filled. I drained it myself to proper level but haven't had time to ride since. I will be on a ride this weekend and hopefully draining the tank to proper oil level fixes my issue. I will put my findings on this thread Monday morning. Sorry there is more people with this issue but I'm glad I found them.

 

[Bigshoe327]

Hello everyone I'm the new guy who was just cruising the internet looking for answers and found this forum and this thread specific to what my machine was doing.
I just purchased a 2018 x4 SE and at 30 miles I had this issue come up. Took it to the shop and they told me the oil tank was overfilled causing the issue. The drained the tank so they said but took it for a 20 mile ride came home noticed oil in the floor again pulled the clear cap and about 5oz hit the floor. I checked the oil tank again ( should have checked when I got it back ) and it was still over filled. I drained it myself to proper level but haven't had time to ride since. I will be on a ride this weekend and hopefully draining the tank to proper oil level fixes my issue. I will put my findings on this thread Monday morning. Sorry there is more people with this issue but I'm glad I found them.

Well, what did you find??

 

[Duckmans]

Do you wait 10 seconds or 10 min after the engine is warm? Haven't tested to see if it matters. Just did my 6 month service and came across this.

 

[MassiveOverkill]

If you're just checking the oil level, 10 seconds after shutting it off. If you've changed the oil, they say 10 minutes. After changing my oil I now do the following:

Measure the drained oil that came out of the dry sump pan and oil reservoir but not the oil filter. If I'm changing the filter, I'll pre fill the oil filter to where it won't leak out when on its side and install the oil filter. I'll then add the amount of oil that was drained back into the reservoir. I'll go for a few trips letting the SxS sit between trips and on my final check I'll let it warm up, pull into my garage and let it idle for a bit and then check the oil level without screwing it all the way back in but I'll only fill it to halfway up the hash marks if it needs topped off.

 

[pete]

MassiveOverkill

Could you please tell me exactly where this drain is located on the vehicle?

Thanks,

Pete

 

[MassiveOverkill]

MassiveOverkill

Could you please tell me exactly where this drain is located on the vehicle?

Thanks,

Pete

If you look underneath your vehicle, it will be in the middle towards the front of the skid plate but behind the front tires.

 

[MassiveOverkill]

I'm going to install a catch can. Initially I was going to try and make my own baffle, but for $25, I think I'll just pony up, looking at this one: https://www.amazon.com/Ruien-0046-Universal-Aluminum-Reservoir/dp/B06XK9PTP7/

 

[kdt1970]

I'm going to install a catch can. Initially I was going to try and make my own baffle, but for $25, I think I'll just pony up, looking at this one: https://www.amazon.com/Ruien-0046-Universal-Aluminum-Reservoir/dp/B06XK9PTP7/

Link wasn't working for me. EDIT...But it's good now.

 

[kevin5881]

Any word on what causes this? I was just under my machine, installing the skid plate. Decided to pull the drain cap, I was ready with a cup to catch a bunch of oil. Not so much as a drip. My machine only has about 250 miles and I just did the 20 hour first service. I was very careful to not over fill, checking the oil several times while topping it off. Mine ended up taking 3.75 quarts and is slightly below full on the dip stick.

 

[MassiveOverkill]

Overfilling is the most likely culprit.

 

[InfidelMT]

Any word on what causes this? I was just under my machine, installing the skid plate. Decided to pull the drain cap, I was ready with a cup to catch a bunch of oil. Not so much as a drip. My machine only has about 250 miles and I just did the 20 hour first service. I was very careful to not over fill, checking the oil several times while topping it off. Mine ended up taking 3.75 quarts and is slightly below full on the dip stick.

Should have been 3.5quarts max. That would have put the level middle of the dipstick. Just did my service a few weeks ago and was overfilled well over 4 quarts.

 

[MassiveOverkill]

Forgot to link this solution: https://www.wolverineforums.com/forum/266-x2-x4-engine/27874-installing-oil-catch-can-x2-x4.html

 

[danielplace1962]

I am thinking the reason the oil is making it that far is also because of gravity allowing everything that enters the tube to travel down into the airbox. If it was looped up first or any elevation it would have to climb it would run back into the tank instead. It will not push the oil uphill as the hose would have to be completely full for that to occur.

 

[Paul65]

Old thread but I’ve got oil. Maybe a couple of ounces. Not a whole lot.

1-If your X2(new model)/X4 is exhibiting this problem = Yes
2-How many miles/hours you have on your vehicle = 1570 miles, 200 hours
3-What oil brand/formula/viscosity you're running OEM Yamalube for first two oil changes then went to Mobile 1 0-40
4-What kind of running do you do, ie; high speed or regular trail use = 85% trail low speed, 15% road above 25 mph
5-Are you making sure you're checking oil correctly = yes I learned from MO here

And the drain clip was EXTREMELY easy to remove with my fingers. Really surprised I hadn’t lost the cap. There’s another thread about replacing it with a real hose clamp.

 

[Flesh Eater]

I just checked mine.

1-If your X2(new model)/X4 is exhibiting this problem: No

2-How many miles/hours you have on your vehicle: 1,200

3-What oil brand/formula/viscosity you're running: Yamaha filter-Yamalube 10w-40

4-What kind of running do you do, ie; high speed or regular trail use: Mostly trail use, but do cruise dirt roads often as well.

5-Are you making sure you're checking the oil level properly, see image below: Yes

6-If you reported it to the dealer and if so what did they say: N/A

 

[Godti]

I'm going to install a catch can. Initially I was going to try and make my own baffle, but for $25, I think I'll just pony up, looking at this one: https://www.amazon.com/Ruien-0046-Universal-Aluminum-Reservoir/dp/B06XK9PTP7/

What is the point of the baffles? If you have the inlet enter the "can" and have it stick down a little lower than the outlet, the oil should not pass thru the catch can, it should collect at the bottom, should it not?