[Budro2]

I'll be relying on my R e d n e c k skills in modifying one of these.

View attachment 108848
Probably use an angle grinder to cut off the rounded portion of the socket and welding a handle of some sort.

Show us the handy work when you’re done!

 

[Reno21]

Oh, that’s old news. You can’t say that vial word!!!
You can get away with typing real curse words though!

Forum Censorship

I’m going to bring something to everyone s attention that is deeply concerning to me that I discovered today! This is not about trying to use the forum as a political platform. This is about my freedom of speech being censored by, YES, this forum itself. Next I’m going show a picture for all to...

www.wolverineforums.com

Thats why you’ll see the word red-neck creatively typed in so many signatures on the forum. It’s like giving the finger to the woke world!

Wow! That's the first I've read of that. Unbelievable!!

 

[JKechter]

I'm convinced that the people in academia have lost their collective minds!!!!!!

 

[Reno21]

Guess this will work. Waiting on DRW's socket to pop the nut.

 

[DirtRoadWarrior]

Guess this will work. Waiting on DRW's socket to pop the nut. View attachment 108864

Guess this will work. Waiting on DRW's socket to pop the nut. View attachment 108864

Don't wait for me. I still have 300 miles to go before I dig in.
After watching MO's vid, all he did was compress the nut. You shouldn't have to compress the nut in order to loosen it. Just loosen the nut. (You will need an assistant to hold the sheave) Then use your tool to compress the spring cup and then remove the nut with your fingers.
FYI - I do plan on engineering something to hold the sheave without the need for an assistant using the 2 - 6mm threaded holes on the front of the sheave.

 

[Rhinohio]

Anyone know what the inside diameter of the small oil field pipe is? It might work.

Misread post... my bad.

​

 

[MassiveOverkill]

Don't wait for me. I still have 300 miles to go before I dig in.
After watching MO's vid, all he did was compress the nut. You shouldn't have to compress the nut in order to loosen it. Just loosen the nut. (You will need an assistant to hold the sheave) Then use your tool to compress the spring cup and then remove the nut with your fingers.
FYI - I do plan on engineering something to hold the sheave without the need for an assistant using the 2 - 6mm threaded holes on the front of the sheave.

FYI that's the only time I've needed someone else to hold the sheave while I loosened the nut and it's because I was using the version of the tool that clamps in a vise. At home, I have the Hunterworks spring holding tool and it's mounted to my work bench where there's a flat surface for it to lay on and the mouse pad grabs the cooling fins sufficiently that the assembly stays in place.

In my video, in the first step I'm simply using the tool to hold the sheave in place while I loosen the nut. You'll see the socket I'm using only engages the center portion of the sheave and NOT the nut or spring cup until the 2nd step where the tool is being used as intended.

 

[DirtRoadWarrior]

FYI that's the only time I've needed someone else to hold the sheave while I loosened the nut and it's because I was using the version of the tool that clamps in a vise. At home, I have the Hunterworks spring holding tool and it's mounted to my work bench where there's a flat surface for it to lay on and the mouse pad grabs the cooling fins sufficiently that the assembly stays in place.

In my video, in the first step I'm simply using the tool to hold the sheave in place while I loosen the nut. You'll see the socket I'm using only engages the center portion of the sheave and NOT the nut or spring cup until the 2nd step where the tool is being used as intended.

Ah, OK. It looked like you were compressing the nut. Make sense to ensure the sheave is being held tight while loosening and tightening the nut.
Thanks again!

 

[Reno21]

Don't wait for me. I still have 300 miles to go before I dig in.
After watching MO's vid, all he did was compress the nut. You shouldn't have to compress the nut in order to loosen it. Just loosen the nut. (You will need an assistant to hold the sheave) Then use your tool to compress the spring cup and then remove the nut with your fingers.
FYI - I do plan on engineering something to hold the sheave without the need for an assistant using the 2 - 6mm threaded holes on the front of the sheave.

What I meant was that I ordered that 55mm socket you showed us and I'm waiting for that.

 

[DirtRoadWarrior]

What I meant was that I ordered that 55mm socket you showed us and I'm waiting for that.

OK. Let me know if that socket is beefy enough to turn that nut without deforming. Also not sure if that socket will sit flat enough on the spring cup to grab to nut properly. Was thinking it might need to be ground down a bit. Thanks for being my Guinea pig!

 

[Budro2]

Guess this will work. Waiting on DRW's socket to pop the nut. View attachment 108864

I’ll give you a warning based on past experience. I did what you’ve got there on my first attempt and got by with it being carful. That said, when compressing the spring on one service (gen 1) the sheave wasn’t centered perfect and the spring and cup slipped sideways with the top tool falling off the edge on one side when the spring was half compressed. Nothing bad came of it but it could, especially if it happens when fully compressed. That’s when I went ahead and built a ring underneath.
I think it’s important to have contact on at least four sides of the top cup.
I would just bend a piece of stock and weld it in on both open sides of what you’ve got so you have equal pressure all around the cup.

 

[Reno21]

OK. Let me know if that socket is beefy enough to turn that nut without deforming. Also not sure if that socket will sit flat enough on the spring cup to grab to nut properly. Was thinking it might need to be ground down a bit. Thanks for being my Guinea pig!

Yah I thought about getting one of those other beefier sockets but they were all 3/4" drive.. Not a big deal but I don't have an adaptor so I thought Id just take a chance on the $16 one. It does look a little sketchy though.

 

[Reno21]

I’ll give you a warning based on past experience. I did what you’ve got there on my first attempt and got by with it being carful. That said, when compressing the spring on one service (gen 1) the sheave wasn’t centered perfect and the spring and cup slipped sideways with the top tool falling off the edge on one side when the spring was half compressed. Nothing bad came of it but it could, especially if it happens when fully compressed. That’s when I went ahead and built a ring underneath.
I think it’s important to have contact on at least four sides of the top cup.
I would just bend a piece of stock and weld it in on both open sides of what you’ve got so you have equal pressure all around the cup.

Thanks. I'll keep that in mind.

 

[Reno21]

I found the spindle on my m/c tire balancer is the perfect size to keep the spring centered.

 

[Reno21]

I'm also waiting on the greaseless plate sliders from UTV Engineering. Hey Massive, do you put any tink seal on both pri and sec shaft splines? Didn't see that on your vids.

 

[MassiveOverkill]

I'm also waiting on the greaseless plate sliders from UTV Engineering. Hey Massive, do you put any tink seal on both pri and sec shaft splines? Didn't see that on your vids.

Yes, but just a light coating.

 

[therebel19]

I would just bend a piece of stock and weld it in on both open sides of what you’ve got so you have equal pressure all around the cup.

I was going to suggest the same thing but didn't know if that would be overkill.

On a side note, you don't have to compress the spring fully. Just enough to take the tension off the nut.

 

[DLX2]

I used a 2 1/2" lock nut for conduit and unistrut brackets to build a spring compressor.

 

[Budro2]

I used a 2 1/2" lock nut for conduit and unistrut brackets to build a spring compressor.
View attachment 108900

More detailed pics!!
I’m a visual person.
And tap FULL IMAGE when you post. I only got a half a pic from that little tiny pic after it took 2 minutes to load.

FULL IMAGE is the only way to go people. Those little squares SUCK! Lol

 

[DLX2]

I changed the picture to full size.
I believe you can click on thumbnails for a full size image?