[TN_Max]

I just ordered some beadlocks and a set of 32x10-14 Roxxzillas....hopefully they're all they're cracked up to be...

 

[Madcat]

you're gonna love em in our terrain

 

[DarknessReigns]

I've read through the 10 pages here, what still isn't clear to me is how much wider will a 4+3 setup make the Rmax4 from it's stock offset? One website said 3" wider per side, so that would be 6' wider in total, which I find hard to believe.

If anyone knows, how much wider the 4+3 setup made your machine from stock, that would be helpful!
I have very little room on my trailer for width but love the 4+3 stance.
Thanks for any feedback on this !

 

[DarknessReigns]

Anyone have any idea how much wider the 4+3 all around would make my machine?

 

[jhama78]

For discussing and sharing pics of various wheel and tire options for the Yamaha RMAX 1000 2 & 4 seat models.
(Specs thanks to MASSIVEOVERKILL)

RMAX2 1000 OEM Wheel and Tire Specs:
Front and Rear (square setup on all models):
14X6.5 ET34 4/156 Lug Wheels
30X10X14 Tires

RMAX4 1000 OEM Wheel and Tire Specs:
Front:
14x6.5 ET34 4/156 Lug Wheels
29X9X14 Tires
Rear:
14X8 ET48 4/156 Lug Wheels
29X11X14 Tires

( wheel stud size is 12X1.25 mm for all 2 & 4 seat RMAX 1000 models )

Massive here adding wheel bearing specs (both are DAC) and held in my circlips:
Rear are 72 mm
Front are 62 mm

I've read through the 10 pages here, what still isn't clear to me is how much wider will a 4+3 setup make the Rmax4 from it's stock offset? One website said 3" wider per side, so that would be 6' wider in total, which I find hard to believe.

If anyone knows, how much wider the 4+3 setup made your machine from stock, that would be helpful!
I have very little room on my trailer for width but love the 4+3 stance.
Thanks for any feedback on this !

Anyone have any idea how much wider the 4+3 all around would make my machine?

Patience Grasshoppa, give the forum time to respond.

Heres how I calculate the math, may be overlooking something but this should get you in the ballpark.

Stock RMAX4 Front wheels are 5.09 + 1.41 - Going to a 4" back space wheel adds 1.09 to the front width per side Plus an extra .5 on the outside due to going with a 7" wide wheel from a 6.5 So a total of 1.59 "

Stock RMAX4 Rear wheels are 6.39 + 1.61 - Going to a 4" back space wheel adds 2.39 per side minus an Inch going to a 7" wheel from an 8 So a total of 1.39 per side.

Then you need to factor in tire section and tread width which will likely be around .5 inches wider per corner wider

That being said likely looking at just over 4" (2.09 + 2.09) wider total in the front and Just under 4" wider (1.89 + 1.89) in the rear.

 

[DarknessReigns]

Thank you for your reply. I was looking at the mm offset, from factory to what the new (4+3) wheels would be and I came up with 1.25" wider per side. I don't trust my math on that though. Thank you for your response!

 

[Rkendall13]

NEED HELP…NEW TO THIS…Studying and reading and my head is spinning trying to grasp a solid understanding.

I purchased a used 2022 RMAX4 1000 LE. It came with System 3 non-beadlock 15” wheels and QuadBoss 808 32x10x15 tires. It has Bandit tender springs installed.

Do I need to be concerned with the offset and size of the wheels and tires?

I have a set of System 3 XT400s (32x10x15) without wheels. I would like to pick up a set of wheels for them so I can do the changeover myself. What wheels do you recommend? I don’t want cheap wheels, but don’t need the top-of-the-line either.

 

[Budro2]

NEED HELP…NEW TO THIS…Studying and reading and my head is spinning trying to grasp a solid understanding.

I purchased a used 2022 RMAX4 1000 LE. It came with System 3 non-beadlock 15” wheels and QuadBoss 808 32x10x15 tires. It has Bandit tender springs installed.

Do I need to be concerned with the offset and size of the wheels and tires?

I have a set of System 3 XT400s (32x10x15) without wheels. I would like to pick up a set of wheels for them so I can do the changeover myself. What wheels do you recommend? I don’t want cheap wheels, but don’t need the top-of-the-line either.

Pretty hard to beat the price and quality of the Tusk beadlock wheels. They have a few different styles and colors to choose from.

Your main concern with the current offset of your wheels would just be that if it’s much wider than stock then you can bend tie rods pretty easily.

If you want to stay close to stock width order 5+2 wheels. Some people run 4+3 which is about a 2” overall wider stance.

Lots of us run a wider stance but we have also added HD tie rods.

I have a set of Quadboss 808s, If you measure the width across the contact patch of the tread itself on your quad boss tires outer lug to outer lug (not outside tire pooch) I can give you an idea of what your wheel offset may be currently. Measure the front end not the rear.
65-66” will be a 5+2, 67-68 will be a 4+3. Exact width will vary based on what ride height is set at.
Also look to see if you have any spacers. Some people put them on the rear of the four seater.
You can also look to see if it already had HD tie rods.

 

[Madcat]

I have 4+3 offset on system 3 beadlock 14" wheels with Roxzilla 32x10x14.... standard ( non - sticky) Machine is incredibly stable and climbs like a mule. Good luck in choosing their is a lot to choose from.

 

[Vader Type-R]

I have 4+3 offset on system 3 beadlock 14" wheels with Roxzilla 32x10x14.... standard ( non - sticky) Machine is incredibly stable and climbs like a mule. Good luck in choosing their is a lot to choose from.

I am really torn between 5+2 or 4+3! Just in the last couple posts some mentioned an overall width of 4" and some mentioned an overall width of 2"? I would love to know which one it is definitively?

Also for anyone running extra width at 4+3, isn't that more stress on the components, studs etc? Is anyone concerned about that?

 

[therebel19]

Your over thinking it. I guess technically there is a little more stress on some components but not enough to worry about it. In the olden days, it would be the wheel bearing that was affected first but I don't think I've heard of wheel bearing failure on an RMAX 4 +3 wheels.

 

[Madcat]

I am really torn between 5+2 or 4+3! Just in the last couple posts some mentioned an overall width of 4" and some mentioned an overall width of 2"? I would love to know which one it is definitively?

Also for anyone running extra width at 4+3, isn't that more stress on the components, studs etc? Is anyone concerned about that?

Short answer.... absolutely more stress on the components. How much? Who knows! To get the performance I wanted, with the type of terrain I enjoy, I needed bigger tires and a wider stance. I didn't want to go full on purpose built rock crawler so my mods were minimal. I will say that at my last sheave service, I had zero significant belt wear, no visible wear on my rollers or sheave face. 85%of the miles on the machine were with the 32's and 4+3 wheels. It is harder on the steering components, harder on the bearings, harder on the ball joints, axles, etc, etc...... however, I'm now in more control navigating the crawling terrain with less throttle, and less "full send" moments. I believe the ease at which I navigate these awful obstacles saves the machine more than the stresses and demands I previously placed on it trying to get up and over the terrain in the stock configuration. The 4+3 wheels were an enormous game change for off camber stability. In my mind it's a wash. I little more daily stress on flat ground verses less stress and more control on challenging terrain. Keep us posted on what works for you.

 

[wolvymanx4]

I am really torn between 5+2 or 4+3! Just in the last couple posts some mentioned an overall width of 4" and some mentioned an overall width of 2"? I would love to know which one it is definitively?

Also for anyone running extra width at 4+3, isn't that more stress on the components, studs etc? Is anyone concerned about that?

As therebel said. Don't over think it. If width isn't a concern, I say go wider. I went with the 5+2 offset and later wished that I had gone with the 4+3's. on my RMAX4 I then used spacers all the way around to put one more inch on each corner. Like budro I never had any issues due to the wheels and spacers but the increased stability, decreased body roll, better handling gains are well worth going wider. Oh ya, it also looks bad ass!

 

[Vader Type-R]

As therebel said. Don't over think it. If width isn't a concern, I say go wider. I went with the 5+2 offset and later wished that I had gone with the 4+3's. on my RMAX4 I then used spacers all the way around to put one more inch on each corner. Like budro I never had any issues due to the wheels and spacers but the increased stability, decreased body roll, better handling gains are well worth going wider. Oh ya, it also looks bad ass!

Thank you for this breakdown. I am now strongly considering 4+3 mainly from this response and some others. I am actually considering pulling the trigger on Valor 02 non deadlock mainly because they are lightweight and have an offset that seems to be between 5+2 and 4+3 at +20mm. Valor does call them a 5+2 which surprises me a bit.

 

[Vader Type-R]

Pretty hard to beat the price and quality of the Tusk beadlock wheels. They have a few different styles and colors to choose from.

Your main concern with the current offset of your wheels would just be that if it’s much wider than stock then you can bend tie rods pretty easily.

If you want to stay close to stock width order 5+2 wheels. Some people run 4+3 which is about a 2” overall wider stance.

Lots of us run a wider stance but we have also added HD tie rods.

I have a set of Quadboss 808s, If you measure the width across the contact patch of the tread itself on your quad boss tires outer lug to outer lug (not outside tire pooch) I can give you an idea of what your wheel offset may be currently. Measure the front end not the rear.
65-66” will be a 5+2, 67-68 will be a 4+3. Exact width will vary based on what ride height is set at.
Also look to see if you have any spacers. Some people put them on the rear of the four seater.
You can also look to see if it already had HD tie rods.

Hey Budro you mentioned running "much wider than stock" would bend tire rods easily. Does a 4+3 offeset with 1" spacer in rear of X4 count as for this concern that your speaking of? I'm looking at wheels that are +15mm or +20mm with 1" rear spacer.

 

[therebel19]

Hey Budro you mentioned running "much wider than stock" would bend tire rods easily. Does a 4+3 offeset with 1" spacer in rear of X4 count as for this concern that your speaking of? I'm looking at wheels that are +15mm or +20mm with 1" rear spacer.

No, the rear doesn't have tie rods.

 

[Budro2]

Hey Budro you mentioned running "much wider than stock" would bend tire rods easily. Does a 4+3 offeset with 1" spacer in rear of X4 count as for this concern that your speaking of? I'm looking at wheels that are +15mm or +20mm with 1" rear spacer.

Width in the rear will only affect leverage on knuckle bushings and wheel bearings!
FYI, I’ve run 2.5” spacers and 1.5” spacers all around, a great deal of my 5800 miles. All my bearings are tight. Knuckle bushings have a wee bit of slack developing.

Unless you decide to just use HD tie rods I wouldn’t go over 1” wider per side in the front, which is a 4+3 wheel.Tie rods can and do get bent even at stock width. Anything wider at all only makes it easier when the right scenario occurs.
On my sons 4 seat we run 4+3 wheels and no spacers in the rear, stock tie rods.
The rear is only 1/4” narrower than the front.
That’s probably different on your machine however if have the Schmidty setup.

Being wider, the first thing that will get loose will be tie rod ends. These get loose in time at stock width as well.
We can’t say the mods don’t affect components, they do. The question is, are you willing to change tie rods ends 1000 miles earlier? Are you willing to change knuckle bushings at 6000 miles rather than 10000? I probably run the widest setup at times of anyone and in some of the worst terrain and I bet I don’t change the knuckles before 7500-8000 miles. That’s double the mileage I had to change them on my original wolvy that only had 1” spacers in the rear.
The type of terrain people ride is just as big of an equation in the matter as well, as greasing/maintenance.

The answer is different for everyone!
I don’t mind a bit more maintenance for how I need/want to use my machine.

 

[therebel19]

Even when all stock, I bent a tie rod. I probably would have been better being wider. Stock I didn't have enough width to straddle some boulders and the front tire fell between them. A little wider I could have been able to get both tires on top and slid over the rocks.

 

[Desertdweller67]

I went to my dealer today to drop off my Rmax4. Hoping they will warranty drive shaft u-joints. YES expires in November. As I was walking back to my truck I saw a 2023 Rmax4 new for sale on the lot. Tires tires looked pretty big. Upon further inspection I noticed they were 35's! My dealer is pretty reputable so I was surprised someone thought that was a good idea. Thought you might get a chuckle.

 

[Eztrail]

Someone threw thoes on at the dealer, no way you could ride with thoes. They rub if you look at them to hard!