Is it dumb to consider running a 5+2 front and a 4+3 rear? I saw one other mention of this, but it doesn’t seem common. I don’t care about being able to rotate. I don’t want to run spacers in the rear. Looking at running a 31 terrabite or a 30 km3.

 

Hello all. Just looking for some clarification. I am looking at a wheel that says it's a "5+2". Now I know there is much variation in the 5+2/4+3 numbers. More specifically this wheels says it is +25. Anyone out there that could tell me how that +25 compares to the stock wheels and close to how much wider I'd be sitting front and rear? Thanks.

 

I just put 32s with system 3 SB4 15x7 4+3 wheels on my RMAX4. So far after 1 ride I'm happy with everything. I put a 1" spacer on the rear after reading somewhere that it would be narrower in the rear without spacers. I measured it and it is 70" wide in the rear and 67 in the front. But I'm not sure I want to remove the spacers because I like how stable it felt. Not sure an inch on each side would matter much, but I've always thought this thing was tippy.

 

Oooh, so it's just another metrics VS imperial thing, like Km's vs Miles etc???

 

@Budro2 So with ET, you move the wheel in- or outwards all together? And with offset the wheelhub moves in or out of the rim? Correct? 😛

Offset is measured in millimeters. Positive numbers are moving the wheel inward. The higher the number the more inside it is.
Negative number are moving the wheel outside of center. The higher the number the further out it is.

Back spacing is measured in inches. 5+2, 4+3 etc…

It’s all the same thing using different terminology.
Most 5+2 wheels are a +30mm offset!

 

@Budro2 So with ET, you move the wheel in- or outwards all together? And with offset the wheelhub moves in or out of the rim? Correct? 😛

 

Darth_DMack....Get the tires and try it out. The RMAX has plenty of power for an all around/do everything machine, so I don't miss anything in the way of performance with heavier wheels/tires for my riding on forest roads and mountain trails. I do run a .5mm shim in the clutch (with 24g weights) just to improve low speed crawling a tad and to protect the wet clutch and CVT belt a wee bit. My RMAX4 weighs in at 2400 lbs as equiped, but it crawls like an animal and will still do 60 mph.

 

Run it in 4wd to save the trails from being rutted out and get a more even tread wear out of your tires.

 

Great point... I typically don't spin my wheels at all, very conscious to rut making. I try to use 4WD only when needed, and RARELY do I ever need to lock my front Diff.

I wish my '23 had turf mode though, so I don't tear up my grass... LOL

This RMax2 is every bit as nimble and sure footed as my Talon was, so far. I definitely like the 4WD / Diff Lock over the i4WD on the Talon.

 

Glad I found this thread... I have a '23 RMax2 LE, on OEM 30" 'Vores. I'm very impressed with these tires so far. Looking to move up to 32" tires with bead locks.

I'm adding an aftermarket skid plate system, so the extra height by going with 32" tires puts me a wee bit better than the OEM set up. Also looking at changing out my springs.

What I'm not up on, is clutch work. I'm under the impression that just putting 32" tires won't change performance all that much. Most of the trails I ride around here (SC / NC / WV / TN / North GA) are technical East Coast trails, and I find that I like 2WD, Trail, in Low Gear best.

What say you all?

 

Hi, thx for the reply. So If I want 4 rims, I have to find 14" ones, ET34 and the 4/156 thingy...

Say I want those rims, but they have to be more outside the vehicule and not just placing spacers between hub and rim. Is that ET lower or higher then?

And how does that ET34 correlates to say offset 4 +3 or 5 +

Hi, thx for the reply. So If I want 4 rims, I have to find 14" ones, ET34 and the 4/156 thingy...

Say I want those rims, but they have to be more outside the vehicule and not just placing spacers between hub and rim. Is that ET lower or higher then?

And how does that ET34 correlates to say offset 4 +3 or 5 +2 or those things I see (or something like that, can't remember correct and I'm Dutch speaking soooooo all those technical terms in a foreign language lol...)

You can also go to a 15 inch wheel, they don’t have to be 14”

ET 34 is a postitive number meaning the higher the number the further it is offset in toward the brake or inside. If you want it wider then you want that ET number to be lower.

5+2 is really close to stock width.
4+3 is about 2 inches wider than stock. 1 inch wider on each side.
5+2 and 4+3 both equal a 7 inch wide wheel.
From the center of the hub, 5 inch’s inside and 2 inches outside, or 4 inches inside and 3 inches outside of center.

4x156 is the bolt pattern. 4 lugs and 156 is the distance across them.

 

Ordered my wheels and tires. Hoping to have them by next Thursday. I'll post pictures once installed.

Went with MRT XROX DD tires in 32" (42 lbs per tire) and System 3 SB4 wheels in bronze, 4 + 3 offset. I haven’t seen anyone on here talking about MRT tires but from my research they are supposed to be as lightweight as you can get while having the claimed strongest kevlar sidewalls.

Although I am now second guessing the 32" wheel choice as I'm afraid I opened myself up to breaking axels with bigger heavier tires!

 

Does anyone know what the hub center bore size is? I'm trying to order 3/4" wheel spacers from a place that makes them custom. They are asking what the hub center bore size is?

Just trying to get the spacers for a square set up secured as I may order my new tires/wheels today.

 

Does anyone know what the hub center bore size is? I'm trying to order 3/4" wheel spacers from a place that makes them custom. They are asking what the hub center bore size is?

Just trying to get the spacers for a square set up secured as I may order my new tires/wheels today.

On a stock wheel it’s really close to 61mm or 2.4”
It’s pretty irrelevant because my spacers have a 130mm center and everything I’ve seen is comparable.
They may be thinking Yamaha is hub centric like Kawasaki, but Yamaha is lug centric.

 

Is this OP's tekst also for my GREEN 2021 RMAX2 SE, cause I live in Belgium/Europe???

RMAX2 1000 OEM Wheel and Tire Specs:
Front and Rear (square setup on all models):
14X6.5 ET34 4/156 Lug Wheels
30X10X14 Tires

Cause I can't see the info on the stock bronze rims. Or do I have to take them off the machine and watch inside the rim?

 

The OP had a 4 seater but it shows your 2 seat info right in the OP and yes your 2 seat is the same as ours here in the states!

You have a 34mm offset 6.5” wide wheel.

 

That was my thoughts exactly. The tires look like they have a lot more wear on them than just dealer parking lot back and forth. The sharp corners on all of the tread blocks have been worn off. Plus the pictures makes it look like the left rear wheel has paint peeling off of it, due to location may have been from a pressure washer and a poor paint job.

 

Someone threw thoes on at the dealer, no way you could ride with thoes. They rub if you look at them to hard!

 

I went to my dealer today to drop off my Rmax4. Hoping they will warranty drive shaft u-joints. YES expires in November. As I was walking back to my truck I saw a 2023 Rmax4 new for sale on the lot. Tires tires looked pretty big. Upon further inspection I noticed they were 35's! My dealer is pretty reputable so I was surprised someone thought that was a good idea. Thought you might get a chuckle.

 

Ya, that's a little tight. My 32's clear everything even in full turn and hard compression. The 4+3 probably helps with that some as well.

 

Even when all stock, I bent a tie rod. I probably would have been better being wider. Stock I didn't have enough width to straddle some boulders and the front tire fell between them. A little wider I could have been able to get both tires on top and slid over the rocks.

 

Your over thinking it. I guess technically there is a little more stress on some components but not enough to worry about it. In the olden days, it would be the wheel bearing that was affected first but I don't think I've heard of wheel bearing failure on an RMAX 4 +3 wheels.

 

I have 4+3 offset on system 3 beadlock 14" wheels with Roxzilla 32x10x14.... standard ( non - sticky) Machine is incredibly stable and climbs like a mule. Good luck in choosing their is a lot to choose from.

 

I am really torn between 5+2 or 4+3! Just in the last couple posts some mentioned an overall width of 4" and some mentioned an overall width of 2"? I would love to know which one it is definitively?

Also for anyone running extra width at 4+3, isn't that more stress on the components, studs etc? Is anyone concerned about that?

 

NEED HELP…NEW TO THIS…Studying and reading and my head is spinning trying to grasp a solid understanding.

I purchased a used 2022 RMAX4 1000 LE. It came with System 3 non-beadlock 15” wheels and QuadBoss 808 32x10x15 tires. It has Bandit tender springs installed.

Do I need to be concerned with the offset and size of the wheels and tires?

I have a set of System 3 XT400s (32x10x15) without wheels. I would like to pick up a set of wheels for them so I can do the changeover myself. What wheels do you recommend? I don’t want cheap wheels, but don’t need the top-of-the-line either.

 

Pretty hard to beat the price and quality of the Tusk beadlock wheels. They have a few different styles and colors to choose from.

Your main concern with the current offset of your wheels would just be that if it’s much wider than stock then you can bend tie rods pretty easily.

If you want to stay close to stock width order 5+2 wheels. Some people run 4+3 which is about a 2” overall wider stance.

Lots of us run a wider stance but we have also added HD tie rods.

I have a set of Quadboss 808s, If you measure the width across the contact patch of the tread itself on your quad boss tires outer lug to outer lug (not outside tire pooch) I can give you an idea of what your wheel offset may be currently. Measure the front end not the rear.
65-66” will be a 5+2, 67-68 will be a 4+3. Exact width will vary based on what ride height is set at.
Also look to see if you have any spacers. Some people put them on the rear of the four seater.
You can also look to see if it already had HD tie rods.

 

Thank you for your reply. I was looking at the mm offset, from factory to what the new (4+3) wheels would be and I came up with 1.25" wider per side. I don't trust my math on that though. Thank you for your response!

 

For discussing and sharing pics of various wheel and tire options for the Yamaha RMAX 1000 2 & 4 seat models.
(Specs thanks to MASSIVEOVERKILL)

RMAX2 1000 OEM Wheel and Tire Specs:
Front and Rear (square setup on all models):
14X6.5 ET34 4/156 Lug Wheels
30X10X14 Tires

RMAX4 1000 OEM Wheel and Tire Specs:
Front:
14x6.5 ET34 4/156 Lug Wheels
29X9X14 Tires
Rear:
14X8 ET48 4/156 Lug Wheels
29X11X14 Tires

( wheel stud size is 12X1.25 mm for all 2 & 4 seat RMAX 1000 models )

Massive here adding wheel bearing specs (both are DAC) and held in my circlips:
Rear are 72 mm
Front are 62 mm

I've read through the 10 pages here, what still isn't clear to me is how much wider will a 4+3 setup make the Rmax4 from it's stock offset? One website said 3" wider per side, so that would be 6' wider in total, which I find hard to believe.

If anyone knows, how much wider the 4+3 setup made your machine from stock, that would be helpful!
I have very little room on my trailer for width but love the 4+3 stance.
Thanks for any feedback on this !

Anyone have any idea how much wider the 4+3 all around would make my machine?

Patience Grasshoppa, give the forum time to respond.

Heres how I calculate the math, may be overlooking something but this should get you in the ballpark.

Stock RMAX4 Front wheels are 5.09 + 1.41 - Going to a 4" back space wheel adds 1.09 to the front width per side Plus an extra .5 on the outside due to going with a 7" wide wheel from a 6.5 So a total of 1.59 "

Stock RMAX4 Rear wheels are 6.39 + 1.61 - Going to a 4" back space wheel adds 2.39 per side minus an Inch going to a 7" wheel from an 8 So a total of 1.39 per side.

Then you need to factor in tire section and tread width which will likely be around .5 inches wider per corner wider

That being said likely looking at just over 4" (2.09 + 2.09) wider total in the front and Just under 4" wider (1.89 + 1.89) in the rear.

 

Anyone have any idea how much wider the 4+3 all around would make my machine?

 

I've read through the 10 pages here, what still isn't clear to me is how much wider will a 4+3 setup make the Rmax4 from it's stock offset? One website said 3" wider per side, so that would be 6' wider in total, which I find hard to believe.

If anyone knows, how much wider the 4+3 setup made your machine from stock, that would be helpful!
I have very little room on my trailer for width but love the 4+3 stance.
Thanks for any feedback on this !

 

you're gonna love em in our terrain