Fixed Primary stock wear marks:

Fixed Primary first cut wear marks, can still mill some more:

Good for an extra 3 MPH (barely hit 56 MPH). Unfortunately we received 10 inches of snow so I'll have to wait for better weather to safely try again. Will disclose weights used at a later date.

Even with this first cut, she's like a bulldozer plowing snow compared to stock and I couldn't restrain myself:

 

So URBS brags 55mph max with OD weights, we are already hit 56mph with HV weights, first cut on the sheave. Going for more!

 

Also to note, we hit this speed with a full windshield and canopy. We also have my X4 ecu programming and my fuel mapping from my dyno runs back in November. Removing the canopy should boost our top speed further.

 

Those of you who have upgraded and still have your stock rollers laying around, please inspect them for me. I just inspected my stock rollers (ran in grease from the factory) and I don't like what I'm finding (what you're looking at is flat spotting):

My X4 has been driven in sub 40 F temps for it's 870 some miles. Most of that has been low speed with occasional plowing, most of the plowing in 20-30 F temps.

UPDATE 2: the flat spotting is due to the rollers being scalped when they reach the end of the cam plate ramp, which has a sharp edge.

UPDATE (disregard this update): I believe the flat spotting is probably due to my secondary spring cup being gouged by the guide pins:

https://www.wolverineforums.com/for...vt-sheaves-wet-clutch/25412-x4-3000-mile-sheave-service-also-applicable-x2.html

 

Those of you who have upgraded and still have your stock rollers laying around, please inspect them for me. I just inspected my stock rollers (ran in grease from the factory) and I don't like what I'm finding (what you're looking at is flat spotting):

My X4 has been driven in sub 40 F temps for it's 870 some miles. Most of that has been low speed with occasional plowing, most of the plowing in 20-30 F temps.

UPDATE: I believe the flat spotting is probably due to my secondary spring cup being gouged by the guide pins:

https://www.wolverineforums.com/for...vt-sheaves-wet-clutch/25412-x4-3000-mile-sheave-service-also-applicable-x2.html

Is no one else experiencing the roller flat spotting?

 

63 MPH baby!!!!!!!

 

I really don't care about us being the first to hit 60 MPH in a Wolverine X4, but the fact that URBS isn't and that Timmmaaay and Jamie will have a coronary makes my day. Maybe they'll shut up, just for a little while. I hit 63 MPH, but since I don't have it on video (yet) we'll concede to only doing 60 MPH. This is our very first sheave machining attempt. Needless to say, you can get results by testing, or doing research, or both. Obviously we did more research on our first attempt than the other guys despite them having months of testing (as well as an X4 in-house) head start ahead of us.

 

Do you guys have a video of how you machine the sheave?

 

It's my sheave, so I care a little, haha. When finished testing, full sheave will be available through Hunterworks. :burnout:

 

Excellent!! You guys are def taking care of business!
Can't wait for the X4 sheave to be available from you guys.

 

Thanks, at this point I'm worried about belt cooling (scratch that, after 3000 miles I'm no longer concerned about it). My stability concerns at those speeds aren't as big. I don't know what it is but she seemed stable once you get past what seemed like a boundary layer.

 

You can see it hit 60 a little better in this run. She'll hold 55 MPH pretty easily without straining. Best part, listen to how quiet she is going around 45 MPH. Even though there's room for improvement, I'm really happy with the top speed, cruising speed, and noise improvements.

I don't know about you guys, but my goal is to be able to keep up with car traffic on highways, not drag race other SxS'. 65 MPH is a reasonable speed to not hold up traffic. I don't need to get there in record time but if she'll hold that speed sustained, that's good in my book. Are any of you looking for higher top speed wanting it so you can race your buddies or is your goal like mine, to keep up with car traffic as well as cruise at lower RPMs, improve fuel economy, and lower noise while cruising between 45-55 MPH while on paved roads?

In this run I have the CVT cover and paneling reinstalled, whereas they were removed in the first video.

 

Took a pic of my old R-spec primary sheave next to the X4 while I was getting ready to switch over to HV weights. Not too surprised with how much larger it is.

 

She'll still do 60, but not as easily with my new 27" Tusk Terrabites, time for some slightly lighter roller weights:

 

I got around to getting the primary/secondary sheave ratio, which is roughly 2.66:1

I don't want to get anyone's hopes up. Todd has been inundated with orders from his new Polaris belts so until things slow down in that market, we may not see a Hunterworks X2/X4 sheave for a bit. The Yamaha fan in me is greatly disappointed, but the businessman in me fully understands. When you have to get out 30 orders a day for belts in addition to the other products you sell, that's a lot of orders to get out and doesn't leave much time for much else if you're a 1-2 man operation. The fact that there's not much labor involved in selling belts like there is in machining sheaves, it's a no-brainer what you need to focus on for time and $$$ to pay the bills.

Couple that with the market for those that want to go 60 MPH in their X2/X4's..........the market just isn't there. Sure getting more grunt down low is great, but it's not like it's a necessity like the Viking/Gen 1 Wolverine. You add bigger tires/do mudding in an X2/X4 you simply use low more often, which was barely used if you were stock. Adding lighter weights (14 grams is too light btw) and is a cheap/sufficient solution if you only need more low end and don't care about top end.

Make sure you check out my 3K mile sheave service thread: https://www.wolverineforums.com/for...vt-sheaves-wet-clutch/25412-x4-3000-mile-sheave-service-also-applicable-x2.html

 

Just some recommendations based on my experience so far (this is using HV greaseless weights, stock secondary spring, no shim, and swiss-cheeesed air filter lid):

26" stock tires:

Stock 22 gram or 21 gram weights are fine for trail riders. If you're using SpeedoHealer, you need to stick with heavier weights if you want maximum top speed......60 MPH plus

27" tires:

18 gram weights give you plenty of torque but your gas mileage will suffer. Mine went down to 15 MPG. With machined sheave and SpeedoHealer you'll still be able to hit 60 MPH
21 gram weights are great cruising weights. You'll notice a little torque loss. Gas mileage is great at 19 MPG. With machined sheave and SpeedoHealer you'll be down to 58 MPH

With 18 gram weights my engine temps ran hotter vs the heavier/near stock 21 gram weights.

19-20 gram weights I think will be perfect for the non-mudder. Will try and experiment with this weight next.

28" tires:

16-18 gram weights depending where you want the majority of your power. Choose 16 if more low end is desirable, choose 18 if more top end is desirable (beyond stock speed limiter).

Anything bigger and chances are you're running portals, which already has built-in gear reduction.

 

Just some recommendations based on my experience so far (this is using HV greaseless weights, stock secondary spring, no shim, and swiss-cheeesed air filter lid):

26" stock tires:

Stock 22 gram or 21 gram weights are fine for trail riders. If you're using SpeedoHealer, you need to stick with heavier weights if you want maximum top speed......60 MPH plus

27" tires:

18 gram weights give you plenty of torque but your gas mileage will suffer. Mine went down to 15 MPG. With machined sheave and SpeedoHealer you'll still be able to hit 60 MPH
21 gram weights are great cruising weights. You'll notice a little torque loss. Gas mileage is great at 19 MPG. With machined sheave and SpeedoHealer you'll be down to 58 MPH

With 18 gram weights my engine temps ran hotter vs the heavier/near stock 21 gram weights.

19-20 gram weights I think will be perfect for the non-mudder. Will try and experiment with this weight next.

28" tires:

16-18 gram weights depending where you want the majority of your power. Choose 16 if more low end is desirable, choose 18 if more top end is desirable.

Anything bigger and chances are you're running portals, which already has built-in gear reduction.

Hey Massive. I have to ask because I googled it and came up empty. What brand are the 18g HV weights you have? Are they Hunterworks? I can't seem to find them on their site if so.

 

Some more data for you

Stock belt width is 35 mm
Minimum width is 34.5 mm

My belt after 3K miles was 34.8 mm

Figure the math and my wear was .1 mm per 1500 miles so you can expect at least 7500 miles on an X2/X4 belt based on my results remembering that I do a bunch of high speed running.

 

Here you go:

https://www.hunterworks.com/inc/sdetail/64856/34145

For the cam plate sliders, you can get them here:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-X2-...iders-Set-8/263430167631?epid=9008334751&hash=item3d55a95c4f:g:upcAAOSwMGVaVtft

 

Just to update you all on the misinformation that Timmy is spreading around. The majority of my increase in top speed is from a machined sheave, NOT SpeedoHealer. Now Timmy may be talking about the JBS X2/X4 sheave, but the sheave that Michael cut for me gets me 6-8 MPH over the stock sheave. With SpeedoHealer alone on stock tires and stock sheave, I was only able to get to 53 MPH via GPS from 49 MPH stock no matter what roller weights I used (stock 22 gram were best)

For 2019, Yamaha actually recalibrated the ECU so it's accurate with the stock tires so GPS speed is increased from 49 to 51 MPH with no mods, so SpeedoHealer alone on a stock 2019 X2/X4 is only going to get you 2 MPH increase.

So to summarize: You need SpeedoHealer to get past the speed limiter. ECU hack so far has failed. You can go with larger tires\lighter weights, but that's only going to get you so far, maybe 55-56 MPH and your rev limiter is going to kick in. You need a machined sheave to get beyond that and you need to stay on the heavier side of your roller weight selection to attain max top speed.

I'll also add this non-partisan, politically incorrect statement. For the vendors: Alba, Hunterworks, JBS, etc. the profit is in ECU flashing, so without success in hacking the ECU, there's not going to be much interest in machining a sheave that will take advantage of increased top speed a flashed ECU is going to provide. A machined sheave's biggest benefit is getting you increased top end. Increased low end can be achieved via shims and/or lighter primary weights alone. Selling the alternative solution: SpeedoHealer doesn't have much profit in it.

 

Thanks man!!!!

 

Ok. I was looking for a section for the X2/X4. So these are listed in the original wolverine/viking section and in the Rhino section. They must be have the same outer dimension as the oem. I am by no means an expert at these clutch setups and I would feel more comfortable if they had a listing in a section for our X4 AND X2's.

 

If/when he does machined sheaves for the X2/X4 you'll probably see that section added but yes, the rollers for the previous gen and current gen are the same dimensions and in most cases, same weight.

 

That's good info right there. Thanks again!!!

 

So if that is the case then I should be able to run EPI weights if I wanted to stick with metal weights. These say that they are for all Viking and Rhino models. They don't say wolverine 700 though. They do have a clutch kit though for the Wolverine 700 as well as Rhino and Viking. So I guess they all use the same weights. They also have many different sizes to choose from. 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20g and so on up to 32g.

https://epiperformance.com/roller-weights-18-grams-we241018/

 

I suppose you could. You realize that you'll have to transfer your plastic sleeve over to those metal inserts? If you don't you run the risk of gouging your sheave. I take it you want to stick with grease? After seeing my stock weights flat-spot WITH grease, I wouldn't want to go back to stock weights.

https://www.wolverineforums.com/for...-x2-x4-cvt-sheaves-wet-clutch/21066-wolverine-x2-x4-clutch-mods.html#post218409

 

They have the plastic housings for them too on the same website. I just never had any problem with the metal rollers and grease ever in my Rhino and I had done a lot to it. I had that little 450 hitting 41-42 mph by the time I was done with it with the motor all stock. My buddy had even drilled the weights to lighten them for me. I dont want to drill X4 though. A lot more torque is coming from this 850 than from the little 450 I used to have. I want everything to stay strong.

 

Ok I just found something interesting. Yamaha is now showing a second part number under their big tire kit. It is for the X2. Part # B8K-E63H0-V0-00. It shows the 2019 X4 as listed to be the original part # along with the 2018 X4 models. The clutches should be the same in both models so could these be a different weight option?

 

The X2 big tire kit is 16 grams vs the X4 big tire kit which is 14 grams. If you like your OEM grease, you can use the HV weights with grease. The HV weight material is superior to the plastic Yamaha uses on the OEM weights.

 

Ok. I just got done reading the tech article on the HV weights and at the end it talks about using them with their coated sheave. I could use these with my stock sheave too though right and why do I need to change the cam plate sliders? Sorry to be a pest I just want to do this right as well as understand why Im doing what Im doing.

 

I think I figured the cam sliders out. If your going to run greaseless, you need greaseless cam sliders as well. Still puzzled about the coated sheave thing.