Whatever is spec'd for it. Check the manual and/or ask the deal. Its cold now so a light oil such as 5W40 might be ok.

 

i can’t find in manual where it even says to use different oil for your first oil change........ dealership said 0-50 which seems odd

 

10W40 is what you'd want and ensure its Jasco MA certified for the wet clutch drive. I wouldn't got to 30 weight nor recommend it. especially now.

@Jimbo
He is in breaking post oem oil. No synthetic just yet IMO. Next change yeah go synthetic.

 

This is what you want. It is good oil, and no argument from Yamaha if something bad would happen. It's what they recommend I believe. I would not go synthetic till next change.

 

am I good to go with synthetic diff and trans fluid?

 

Didio done. Keep the purchase receipt!!!

 

I would use the same methodology with the differentials also. Get a 1000 miles or so on them then switch to synthetic. This is what you want now. Don't get too itchy to get into the synthetic. And yes, like Tripplec said, keep your receipts.

 

I've run synthetic on 1st service on all my brand new SxS and I've put over 4K miles on a Viking and 11K miles on my famous X4 and trust me, they're broken in. Our SxS with only 2 cylinders have to work a lot harder going up and down per RPM than a 4, 6, or 8 cylinder engine going the same distance. Cars don't have engine braking like our Yamahas do either (driving an automatic). You're seating your rings every time you let off the gas because of Yamaha's engine braking.

We're not talking old school cast iron cylinder bores with chrome plated piston rings anymore either. Just my opinion.

 

I've run synthetic on 1st service on all my brand new SxS and I've put over 4K miles on a Viking and 11K miles on my famous X4 and trust me, they're broken in. Our SxS with only 2 cylinders have to work a lot harder going up and down per RPM than a 4, 6, or 8 cylinder engine going the same distance. Cars don't have engine braking like our Yamahas do either (driving an automatic). You're seating your rings every time you let off the gas because of Yamaha's engine braking.

We're not talking old school cast iron cylinder bores with chrome plated piston rings anymore either. Just my opinion.

yeah I can’t find it in that manual...... only reason I even questioned it was I called dealership to ask if they had my oil I
dealership said don’t do synthetic first oil change.... but, I could probabaly ask another guy and their answer would be different... so don’t really trust them

might just do 10-40 semi synthetic..... just to be safe .. thoguhts?

also HOW do you know when your rings are seated and break in is complete?

 

yeah I can’t find it in that manual...... dealership said don’t do synthetic first change....
might just do 10-40 semi synthetic..... just to be safe .. thoguhts?
also how do you know when your rings are seated and break in is complete?

 

Synthetic is too slippery to really break-in properly. Hence why its a commonly accepted No No. Never the less its your decision.

 

After proper break in and at first oil change it's broken in.

 

I always play it safe and go longer than factory recommendations for break in. Yamaha manual said 200 miles or 20 hours, I went 400 miles and 40 hours before switching to Amsoil full synthetic ATV/UTV 10w-40. I also did 3 oil changes of Yamalube 10w-40 Dino 🦕 oil during the first 400 miles. I did the same thing in my 2017 Kodiak 700 with great results in that 708 and never had it burning any oil like so many have had issues with.

 

I saw a video on YouTube from Big Pine Sports. They said that their RMAX’s came with an oil change kit from Yamaha and it was full synthetic oil in the kit. The part number for this kit is LUB-SXSCG-KT-35.

 

Semi synthetic in the kit
hopyamaha.com/product/details/side-by-side-10w-50-semi-synthetic-oil-change-kit?b=Search&d=30&ls=yamaha-motor-company

 

Spoke to several dealerships today included a seasoned and reputable engine builder in Michigan and he told me they run synthetic and if I have a 140-150 miles it’s broke in. He told me Belray or Amsoil.

 

Man, hate to pick on ya, but you're going thru a lot of effort to find someone who'll give you info that you want to hear. Lol.

So now you heard from the professionals, just change the darn oil. Make a vid if you can, and let us know how it went.

 

@Maggot

LOL

 

+1

Most quality conventional or synthetic 10W40 with wet clutch compatibility will be fine in these engines.

Changing the oil/filter at least as soon as recommended or sooner and checking the level every ride is the best thing you can do oil related for the machine.

 

At the the end of the day running with Dino wet clutch oil for two changes of any mileage is not going to negatively affect the engine. A quality approved oil is what is key. Then going to full synthetic is a long term and especially winter requirement for us.

 

I was going back and forth on this as well, and after taking a second to think about it, it doesn't matter. Unless you are drag racing this thing, or doing the Cannonball Run, you likely will not put on 10% the miles the engine is capable of anyway for the time you have it. Using the recommended Yamalube stuff is going to be just fine for an engine that is getting at most 1000 miles per year for 95% of the units.

 

Read through this thread just now. When it comes to 'break in', seemingly everyone has there on theory. Very few of these theories seem to be based on facts, just tradition or what someone else relayed as effective. I'll also add that when it comes to maintenance, even some Yamaha dealers are full of crap. I requested synthetic oil on the first oil change, no questions. I also put synthetic gear oil in the front and rear diffs and transmission when I changed them myself. note i changed it myself because the dealer that did my "break-in service" said that is all that was required. They were wrong (see note about dealers being full of crap).

Assuming you average 4000 rpms, after 20 hrs, you have ~5 million full movement cycles on your engine components. This is at varying conditions (hot, cold in between) and under various loads. My personal, non-fact based theory, is that I don't think there is a lubricant in existence that could prevent whatever break-in wear is going to occur in engine components from occurring in that time frame.

 

I am just with getting it done and preferred the dealer do it. Giving it a look over as well while it was in with them. they'd be or should be up to speed on what to look at including what wasn't normal. If they say or heard something. For me it was my first SxS and this Gen 1 had symphony of sound not indicative of a fine tuned machine. All was claimed to be normal symphonic sounds, LOL But for lubing I stuck with their oils on the 1st service as it would ensure no warranty issue with something I'd done.

I went to full T6 Synthetic about 600km of driving after that oil change they'd done. Not the full 2000 ~ approx as in the manual.