I just got my Wolverine back from the dealer after having the engine rebuilt at 1550 miles after seizing due to lack of oil pressure. It was all covered by warranty and was called an oil pump failure. There was also another Wolverine in there with the rod sticking out the block, due to oil pump drive nut coming loose.
It had never occurred to me that Yamaha hadn't include any sort of oil pressure safety on these things. No light, no shut down, not even a check engine light. A $300 pressure washer shuts down if looses oil pressure, how does a $15k SXS not have anything?
Here is the fix. $25 may save you $4k. There are way too many external oil lines and a know problem with the oil pump on this engine not to have some type of warning for loss of oil pressure. After getting it back I only ran it long enough to load and unload before doing this.
You will need;
M16x1.5 to 1/8 npt adapter. These are common as they fit the GM LS engines. I used this one. https://www.summitracing.com/oh/parts/ear-at9919aujerl/overview/
1/8 NPT 90. I got this. https://www.summitracing.com/oh/parts/vpe-11340/overview/
Wells/Duralast PS117 pressure switch. https://www.autozone.com/external-engine/oil-pressure-switch/duralast-oil-pressure-switch/123828_0
A 12v light of your choice and 6ft or of wire.
The oil pressure test port is a plug on the front of the engine just below the dipstick. It takes an 8mm allen. Oil pressure spec is 7.3 psi at 1600 rpm. Fair warning, the trained gorilla that installed the factory oil filter used this plug to keep the whole damned engine from spinning around. It is unreasonably tight, way beyond the spec of 25 ft lb.
I didn't think to take many pics. This is where the sensor goes. The adapter is in and the 90 is started in this pic.
![Image]()
There is very little room to work in here, you will learn some new words. You need to get the 90 tightened up and pointed to about 11 o'clock.
Here is the pressure switch.
![Image]()
Adapter, elbow and PS117 installed.
![Image]()
Oil lights work by powering the light whenever the key is on. The pressure switch is NC and provides the ground. It opens at a set pressure, in this case 3-5 psi, and the ground is lost causing the light to go out.
I used a 3/4 led trailer marker light. Very bright, easy to mount and very low amp draw.
![Image]()
Wiring is simple. Hot side of light (matters with leds) to keyed power source, in my case the helmet light wire that now powers my switch lights, ground side of light to oil pressure switch.
It had never occurred to me that Yamaha hadn't include any sort of oil pressure safety on these things. No light, no shut down, not even a check engine light. A $300 pressure washer shuts down if looses oil pressure, how does a $15k SXS not have anything?
Here is the fix. $25 may save you $4k. There are way too many external oil lines and a know problem with the oil pump on this engine not to have some type of warning for loss of oil pressure. After getting it back I only ran it long enough to load and unload before doing this.
You will need;
M16x1.5 to 1/8 npt adapter. These are common as they fit the GM LS engines. I used this one. https://www.summitracing.com/oh/parts/ear-at9919aujerl/overview/
1/8 NPT 90. I got this. https://www.summitracing.com/oh/parts/vpe-11340/overview/
Wells/Duralast PS117 pressure switch. https://www.autozone.com/external-engine/oil-pressure-switch/duralast-oil-pressure-switch/123828_0
A 12v light of your choice and 6ft or of wire.
The oil pressure test port is a plug on the front of the engine just below the dipstick. It takes an 8mm allen. Oil pressure spec is 7.3 psi at 1600 rpm. Fair warning, the trained gorilla that installed the factory oil filter used this plug to keep the whole damned engine from spinning around. It is unreasonably tight, way beyond the spec of 25 ft lb.
I didn't think to take many pics. This is where the sensor goes. The adapter is in and the 90 is started in this pic.
There is very little room to work in here, you will learn some new words. You need to get the 90 tightened up and pointed to about 11 o'clock.
Here is the pressure switch.
Adapter, elbow and PS117 installed.
Oil lights work by powering the light whenever the key is on. The pressure switch is NC and provides the ground. It opens at a set pressure, in this case 3-5 psi, and the ground is lost causing the light to go out.
I used a 3/4 led trailer marker light. Very bright, easy to mount and very low amp draw.
Wiring is simple. Hot side of light (matters with leds) to keyed power source, in my case the helmet light wire that now powers my switch lights, ground side of light to oil pressure switch.
