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Ok. I was looking for a section for the X2/X4. So these are listed in the original wolverine/viking section and in the Rhino section. They must be have the same outer dimension as the oem. I am by no means an expert at these clutch setups and I would feel more comfortable if they had a listing in a section for our X4 AND X2's.
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
Ok. I was looking for a section for the X2/X4. So these are listed in the original wolverine/viking section and in the Rhino section. They must be have the same outer dimension as the oem. I am by no means an expert at these clutch setups and I would feel more comfortable if they had a listing in a section for our X4 AND X2's.
If/when he does machined sheaves for the X2/X4 you'll probably see that section added but yes, the rollers for the previous gen and current gen are the same dimensions and in most cases, same weight.
 
That's good info right there. Thanks again!!!
 
So if that is the case then I should be able to run EPI weights if I wanted to stick with metal weights. These say that they are for all Viking and Rhino models. They don't say wolverine 700 though. They do have a clutch kit though for the Wolverine 700 as well as Rhino and Viking. So I guess they all use the same weights. They also have many different sizes to choose from. 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20g and so on up to 32g.

https://epiperformance.com/roller-weights-18-grams-we241018/
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
So if that is the case then I should be able to run EPI weights if I wanted to stick with metal weights. These say that they are for all Viking and Rhino models. They don't say wolverine 700 though. They do have a clutch kit though for the Wolverine 700 as well as Rhino and Viking. So I guess they all use the same weights. They also have many different sizes to choose from. 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20g and so on up to 32g.

https://epiperformance.com/roller-weights-18-grams-we241018/
I suppose you could. You realize that you'll have to transfer your plastic sleeve over to those metal inserts? If you don't you run the risk of gouging your sheave. I take it you want to stick with grease? After seeing my stock weights flat-spot WITH grease, I wouldn't want to go back to stock weights.

https://www.wolverineforums.com/for...-x2-x4-cvt-sheaves-wet-clutch/21066-wolverine-x2-x4-clutch-mods.html#post218409
 
They have the plastic housings for them too on the same website. I just never had any problem with the metal rollers and grease ever in my Rhino and I had done a lot to it. I had that little 450 hitting 41-42 mph by the time I was done with it with the motor all stock. My buddy had even drilled the weights to lighten them for me. I dont want to drill X4 though. A lot more torque is coming from this 850 than from the little 450 I used to have. I want everything to stay strong.
 
Ok I just found something interesting. Yamaha is now showing a second part number under their big tire kit. It is for the X2. Part # B8K-E63H0-V0-00. It shows the 2019 X4 as listed to be the original part # along with the 2018 X4 models. The clutches should be the same in both models so could these be a different weight option?
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
The X2 big tire kit is 16 grams vs the X4 big tire kit which is 14 grams. If you like your OEM grease, you can use the HV weights with grease. The HV weight material is superior to the plastic Yamaha uses on the OEM weights.
 
Ok. I just got done reading the tech article on the HV weights and at the end it talks about using them with their coated sheave. I could use these with my stock sheave too though right and why do I need to change the cam plate sliders? Sorry to be a pest I just want to do this right as well as understand why Im doing what Im doing.
 
I think I figured the cam sliders out. If your going to run greaseless, you need greaseless cam sliders as well. Still puzzled about the coated sheave thing.
 
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Discussion starter · #31 ·
Getting the coated sheave is ideal as it's a pretty thick application of the dry lube. Believe it or not my prototype sheave didn't get that application and only got the benefit of the coating that was on the HV weights. I would do the HV sliders, especially on a non-coated sheave, but if you're going to use grease anyways, you can stick with the stock sliders.

I personally use Liquid Wrench's dry lube spray (with Cerflon) to touch up all my moving parts and coated sheave after I've serviced them. It's not as good (nor could you apply it as thick) as the dry lube Hunterworks uses, but it's close and certainly better than nothing. It's important you don't get it on the sheave faces but I'll treat all the rubber seals and sleeve inserts with it and work them back and forth before applying grease to them.

I'm a huge fan of dry lube coatings. I use dry lube coating on my AR-15 and Shield 9 mm with excellent results. I don't get it into the combustion chamber and repeated treatments increase its effectiveness.

This is the shot group from my dry-lubed AR-15 (I am also using a nitrided bolt carrier and nickle teflon trigger groups). I don't consider myself a marksman either and rarely get the chance to fire my AR on a regular basis. Once I figure out where my brass is landing, I can put a bucket or blanket in that area and the brass consistently lands in the same spot.



Shot group from my dry-lubed Shield 9mm, only mod is an SS guide rod spring. Obviously I trust my life to the stuff as this is my everyday CCW.

 
Thanks so much for your knowledge. I think Im gonna give the greaseless setup a shot. Seems to make sense.

Nice shooting too and nice CCW choice as well. Im partial though because I carry the same. Shield 9 in FDE. Got it last year when they were doing the $75 Shield rebate and love it. GOOD STUFF!!!
 
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So got the cam slides and weights in hand finally and can't wait to get them in. I hoping to do them next week because I'm on vacation from work but also want to do some fall leaf peepin' before all the colors gone so not sure if I want the down time. We'll see though.
 
Discussion starter · #34 · (Edited)
My thoughts on Yamaha's X2/X4 wet clutch.

Reference video:


First of all I'm going to give credit to JBS for discovering that the X2/X4's wet clutch uses rubber bushings like Kawasaki Teryx's wet clutch. I don't like stealing other's information (as my own) and am willing to give credit where credit's due. Here's where we'll disagree. You'll see in James' (JBS) Teryx wet clutch video that he tries to move the clutch shoes in and out and has difficulty doing so vs the Yamaha (Rhino\Gen1\Viking) wet clutch which doesn't use grommets. The problem is that he's doing this on a new clutch that is dry, without the benefit of oil. I'm very confident that the clutch shoe will move in and out much easier with oil present. He sees these grommets hurting wet clutch performance. I see the opposite.

What the hell are you talking about Massive?!?! Basically you have a rubber grommet installed onto a post behind each clutch shoe. Each clutch shoe has a corresponding cylindrical hole cut out to match that rubber grommet. Under centrifugal force the clutch shoe will break-free and engage the clutch drum. The Teryx wet clutch also uses weaker springs than the Yamaha's.

Massive's thoughts: This makes perfect sense and isn't a flaw in my opinion. By using the rubber grommet design, what you're essentially doing is getting a higher stall speed. This can be done by using stronger springs, but if you use stronger springs, you reduce the clamping force exerted against the clutch drum. To refresh your memory the springs are there to hold the shoe back until the clutch is spinning fast enough to engage the drum.

By using a grommet, you can actually use weaker springs = have your cake and eat it too. The grommet raises the stall speed over a non-grommet design. The weaker springs increase force against the clutch shoe and lower stall speed. They equal each other out so you have a normal stall speed, but increased shoe pressure against the clutch drum for less slippage.

The're aren't any holes in the shoes to add weights so forget adding slugs to your wet clutch unless you're going to drill those holes yourself (which I don't recommend), and how much benefit would you be gaining over the weight of the material removed from drilling that hole in the first place?

What I do see as far as modding is changing either the thickness/size and/or compound of that rubber grommet to increase/decrease your stall speed. Removing it would lower your stall speed/shoe engagement. Also consider that synthetic oil could affect the slipperiness of that grommet, allowing the shoe to slip out easier.

One con: you better do timely oil changes as I can see those grommets eventually breaking down/wearing out and you don't want that crap running through your engine.
 
So got the cam slides and weights in hand finally and can't wait to get them in. I hoping to do them next week because I'm on vacation from work but also want to do some fall leaf peepin' before all the colors gone so not sure if I want the down time. We'll see though. View attachment 71026
So just an update everyone. I got my clutch weights installed yesterday with pleasing results. So far its exactly what I was hoping for. The 18g weights definitely gave be my bottom end punch back as well as the top end when I have extra passengers since putting on the 28" tires. It took all day yesterday to do it and let me tell you its not a horrible job to do but the amount of things you have to disassemble to get to the clutch is kind of a pain but worth it in the end. Sorry I didn't take pictures of the whole process but I was borrowing some good friends of mines garage to do it since we've had rain out here all week and I don't have a garage so I was just trying to work as fast as possible. I still didn't finish until about 1 am last night. We took it out for a middle of the night test session though. Im about 195 lbs andmy buddy is about 275 and it hauled us like it did with the stock tires. I was able to max out the speedo at 51 on a slight up grade on the road with the 28's. VERY NICE!!! It doesn't sound like it's over revving either at top speed. It actually sounds like I have plenty of room to go. So time for this new ECU flash now. I think its exactly what I need to finish her off and end up with the reliable extra performance I'm looking for.....
 
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So just an update everyone. I got my clutch weights installed yesterday with pleasing results. So far its exactly what I was hoping for. The 18g weights definitely gave be my bottom end punch back as well as the top end when I have extra passengers since putting on the 28" tires. It took all day yesterday to do it and let me tell you its not a horrible job to do but the amount of things you have to disassemble to get to the clutch is kind of a pain but worth it in the end. Sorry I didn't take pictures of the whole process but I was borrowing some good friends of mines garage to do it since we've had rain out here all week and I don't have a garage so I was just trying to work as fast as possible. I still didn't finish until about 1 am last night. We took it out for a middle of the night test session though. Im about 195 lbs andmy buddy is about 275 and it hauled us like it did with the stock tires. I was able to max out the speedo at 51 on a slight up grade on the road with the 28's. VERY NICE!!! It doesn't sound like it's over revving either at top speed. It actually sounds like I have plenty of room to go. So time for this new ECU flash now. I think its exactly what I need to finish her off and end up with the reliable extra performance I'm looking for.....
Are you concerned that if you do get a different ecu with the capability to hit 65 mph that the 18g weights will be to light?

My plans down the rode is to get a different ecu, but I also want my clutch to be planned around a higher top speed.
 
Are you concerned that if you do get a different ecu with the capability to hit 65 mph that the 18g weights will be to light?

My plans down the rode is to get a different ecu, but I also want my clutch to be planned around a higher top speed.
I'm pretty confident that it will be fine. But if it does seem to rev too high at that time I'll try some 20g weights are just put the stockies back in.
 
Discussion starter · #38 ·
I'm getting some 19 gram weights to test with. The 21 gram weights I'm using now are just a little too heavy for my liking. 18's are actually 17.5 grams so I think 19's will be a sweet spot weight for slightly bigger tires and top end retention.
 
I'm getting some 19 gram weights to test with. The 21 gram weights I'm using now are just a little too heavy for my liking. 18's are actually 17.5 grams so I think 19's will be a sweet spot weight for slightly bigger tires and top end retention.
Massive are you considering the Weller racing ecu? Potentially with the added fuel 21 gram weights would work out great....
 
Discussion starter · #40 ·
Massive are you considering the Weller racing ecu? Potentially with the added fuel 21 gram weights would work out great....
I'll hopefully have a unit for testing if weather permits. I'm going to try 19 gram weights. 21 were nice but just a little bit laggy and lowered my top end by 1-2 MPH.
 
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