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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey folks so when I first got my Wolverine rspec this summer it would top out at 50 no higher and more recently only 48!
What could cause this belt wear? I’m under the impression it’s the original with 5,000 miles but Yamaha does not typically have an issue destroying belts
Why am I so much slower then the typical 52-53

I did recently install a power commander and no acheive the factory top speed would like to figure this out so I can fully enjoy my new improvements. Thanks in advance for any inputs or opinions
 

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We’re there any service records with it when you purchased it?
It sounds like, possibly your sheave is not upshifting all the way.
At 5000 miles it would have needed the sheaves serviced 3 times by now, so if it has never been done or hasn’t been done in a long time then that will likely resolve your problem.

The sheaves reach full upshift long before top speed. Final top speed comes after full upshift by RPMs increasing. The PCV will bypass the rev limiter and help with a bit of top speed but the 708 runs out of power not long after the rev limiter anyway, so in spite of a bit more RPM I’d say it’s the sheaves holding it back by not cycling all the way.
 
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Service your your clutches and change the belt. You'll only top speeds on a fresh belt. 5k is more than enough to notice wear. Clutches need serviced every 1500 miles or so. Belts start to show losses in top speed at under 1k miles. With a power commander, Hunterworks sheave with 12 gram weights I could hit 62 on a perfect day with 27's. 56-58 was pretty normal.
 
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I believe JRA means 16 or 18 gram weights. 12 would be a typo!
 
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Mines always been a little snappier with more top speed in the summer over the winter, I attributed it to difference of the temp of belt, gear case oil, grease in axle joints etc.
 
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I believe JRA means 16 or 18 gram weights. 12 would be a typo!
Could be. It's been years and I've been drinking. I'd remember needing the PC to keep it from hitting the rev limiter before it started shifting when WOT.
 

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Just looked it up and we are both wrong. 14 gram and purple spring. Also slugged wet clutch but that should have nothing to do top speed.

OP, put an oil pressure light on it ASAP.
 
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Could be. It's been years and I've been drinking. I'd remember needing the PC to keep it from hitting the rev limiter before it started shifting when WOT.
Yep, had to have the PCV with 14s or you hit the limiter to early.
16 and 18 didn’t require the PCV.
14s work good with a purple spring.
16s work better with a green spring
18s go good with a gold or the stock spring.
None of those combinations change overall top speed but Noload proved the 18s with gold or stock spring are the fastest drag racer combo.

Here’s oil pressure light info. It’s a must do for that engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks everyone for the info I was defiantly leaning toward belt and clutching. Looks like I get to do some wrenching tomorrow I had planned to upgrade to the hunterworks sheave so looks like I’ll be doing that sooner if I’m gunna tear it down! Thanks again
 

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Hey folks so when I first got my Wolverine rspec this summer it would top out at 50 no higher and more recently only 48!
What could cause this belt wear? I’m under the impression it’s the original with 5,000 miles but Yamaha does not typically have an issue destroying belts
Why am I so much slower then the typical 52-53

I did recently install a power commander and no acheive the factory top speed would like to figure this out so I can fully enjoy my new improvements. Thanks in advance for any inputs or opinions
Where did you get the powercommander from?
 

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Hunterworks
Then you have my mapping. 14g and green spring is the fastest drag racing, have a video of rubber left on asphalt in Wolverine 1st gen. I don't manufacture 14g anymore, so 16 is your option now. Your best option is to do a full service, primary, secondary sheaves and take a look at the wetclutch for wear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Then you have my mapping. 14g and green spring is the fastest drag racing, have a video of rubber left on asphalt in Wolverine 1st gen. I don't manufacture 14g anymore, so 16 is your option now. Your best option is to do a full service, primary, secondary sheaves and take a look at the wetclutch for wear.
And would this be a optimal set up for 28s because hopefully that day is coming soon and figure might as well do it all at once

also sense these are your maps will I need a different map if I change the exhaust rather I do just the tip or hmf slip on
 

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I would stay with 16g and green from Hunterworks. Your mapping is fine until you add the slip on. I can tune your map when that happens. You just need a laptop and wifi so that I can tune you long distance. ;)
 

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Add my new 2nd Carbon Fiber sliders, they make a big difference, especially when greaseless on that clutch.
On the Rmax, Yamaha added twice the number of sliders to increase the surface area. On the 1st gens, I redesigned the slider to have +12 sq mm on the existing camplate and changed the approach angles to fit the cast aluminum sheave.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I would stay with 16g and green from Hunterworks. Your mapping is fine until you add the slip on. I can tune your map when that happens. You just need a laptop and wifi so that I can tune you long distance. ;)
Awesome thanks for all the info I’ll send an update once it’s been gone through and I will be in touch on a new tune when I get the exhaust thank you again!
 

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Yep, had to have the PCV with 14s or you hit the limiter to early.
16 and 18 didn’t require the PCV.
14s work good with a purple spring.
16s work better with a green spring
18s go good with a gold or the stock spring.
None of those combinations change overall top speed but Noload proved the 18s with gold or stock spring are the fastest drag racer combo.

Here’s oil pressure light info. It’s a must do for that engine.
I agree Budro2 with the 18’s, thats what I’m running in my 686cc Viking and have been very pleased. The 708 and 686 power-bands are so much alike. I had the 708 in my 2017 Kodiak and liked the 18’s with 1.5mm of shims. I did not care for the shims in my Viking 686 so I took them back out. Have you experimented with the shims? Do you like any shims behind the primary?
 

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I agree Budro2 with the 18’s, thats what I’m running in my 686cc Viking and have been very pleased. The 708 and 686 power-bands are so much alike. I had the 708 in my 2017 Kodiak and liked the 18’s with 1.5mm of shims. I did not care for the shims in my Viking 686 so I took them back out. Have you experimented with the shims? Do you like any shims behind the primary?
Yes, I played with shims a lot on my Gen 1.
It had a HW sheave with a .5 shim in. I put 28” tires on afterwards and in deep snow the belt ended up hitting the cover. They didn’t have much room in there. Instead of taking the shim out, I modified the cover to have all the room I needed.
Others had tried 1mm of shim in conjunction with the HW sheave but the belt always hit the cover under load.
I tried 2mm of shim knowing there’s no way I’d hit the cover. I disintegrated a belt in 10 miles.
It was simply going to low in the primary and losing to much grip so it was slipping and creating heat.
I tried 1.5 mm and did a couple hundred miles. That was an awesome combo. I loved driving it like that. In heavy snow I blew another belt. The heavy load in snow on the big tires pulled the belt to low in the primary and again it slipped and got hot.
1mm of shim worked trouble free for 1000s of miles till I sold it.
Noload runs .75 mm in his without a modified cover and 27” tires.

One thing I learned in all that was that what I read on the Grizzly forum that guys got away with on a four wheeler didn’t apply to a heavier side by side that had the exact same CVT.
The weight oh the machine is a big factor. So is tire size and conditions it’s driven in.
That CVT is close to maxed out in a wolverine or Viking before we start tinkering.
One can get away with a lot when it’s in a light weight four wheeler.

I’m running a 1mm shim in my Rmax right now. It crawls better with 32” tires than it did stock with 30s.
 
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