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Wiring a light bar and rocker switch using key on power

26K views 47 replies 8 participants last post by  YamWolvyX2 
#1 ·
So I just ordered my new light bar and rocker switch. I am looking for a diagram or very descriptive explanation on how to wire it all up. I’m not an electrical wiz but I have a basic understanding of it. My rocker switch I ordered is led and I want it to only be lit when I turn the key on.
 
#3 · (Edited)
I don't know if the specs changed for a 21' model year, but this is for my 19'

X2/X4 has a 14 volt, 598 watt stator output
• Do not exceed the Maximum current draw of 7A for a single accessory connector.
• Do not exceed the Maximum total current draw of 20A for all of the accessory connectors.

So devices that draw more than 7A should be on another system, such as a added relay/harness.
 
#4 ·
Hover your mouse over these switch bodies and it should show you the pin connections.
Find one like yours and select it. It will have a wiring diagram that should be similar to yours, but verify.
Did your switch come with directions?
Any pics would help...... gotta love pics.....lol
Rocker Switch Bodies Link.
 
#5 ·
If your light bar uses more than 7 amps, you will need a Relay Harness.
Pics from another thread but apply here also.
.
92761



Pic using a large relay to power multiple devices. Total devices amp draw need to be equal or lower than relay.

92762
 
#7 ·
.....removed for now, I made it sound to complicated.
I'll add later unless someone can continue, sorry.

Sorry if I make it sound complicated, I'm remodeling a bathroom at the moment... lol


92772
 
#12 ·
I always recommend to folks if they think they'll be adding multiple items to put in a fuseblock from the get go.

Little extra work at the beginning wiring it in, but super simple to add too or replace later.

For lightbar wiring at the bumper and roof. I wired it so there's a blank connector just behind and to the side of the grill, and another at the roof. So if I want to change out the light bars, just need to unbolt and unplug.
 
#27 ·
#14 · (Edited)
I do it this way, so load power does not go thru the switch but from the relay to the device.

In this diagram, Replace the + from batt to switch with IG on trigger, and add a GRND if needed for switch lighting.

Sometimes in the pre made kits they also feed the switch from #30 which needs to be IG on trigger or it will be on all the time. And NEVER a chassis GRND, always a seperate GRND wire.

92780
 
#23 ·
skelley would you recommend a relay after each connection or what size would you suggest to power the fuse block here? Looks like youre pulling power from an accessory lead?

Switch would need ground for lights. I like it though Jim, nice and simple.
I added a relay with key power-on.
Makes it easier to add more items later like Maggot mentioned.
.
View attachment 92781
 
#17 ·
Wiring is a funny thing, I was an industrial electrician for 17 years in my first career, give me 480 v 3 phase power that can kill me, and I know exactly what to do with it. Silly as it sounds, I have some sort of mental block with 12v wiring, LOL. I like to use the pre made harnesses and just deal with the trigger wire.
 
#18 ·
My buddy is a retired electrician and he said the same thing Jimbo......LOL.
I was a Electronic Tech in the Marine Corps and repaired Air - Ground Radio and Radar equipment.
I repaired many motherboards at my bench, but point to 12v house wiring or higher voltages stuff and I'm freakin' lost. Like really lost....LOL
 
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#19 ·
Yep, it's fun stuff, pretty exiting when you drill into an underground 16.5 K line with a 24" auger for light poles, ask me how I know, LOL....looked like a mini nuke went off with a little mushroom cloud, and blew the auger in half.
 
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#20 ·
Yup, you're not alone. I'm a Millwright, but have seen the aftermath of that exact situation on Construction jobs that other Sparky's have done.
I even seen where a Boilermaker cut a 6" main using a Lancing Rod. He said it was in his way...... Hello dumbarse....lol
 
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#21 ·
Yah, the guy on the tractor was lucky, he tried to jump off and I yelled at him to sit still and not touch anything, as those lines most always reset after the initial trip, before they fully open, and it surely did, exploding a second time shortly after the first. If it would have reset while he was trying to jump off grabbing the steel, he would have been toast. Dig alert is very useful, that line was not where it was supposed to be.
 
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#22 · (Edited)
I'll add that it's a good idea to have some extra wire and wire splices when doing electrical mods.
  • Extra wire to match AWG of harness.
  • Tooling. Wire strippers and crimpers depending on you splice connectors

I like the silicone wire myself. Link to 14awg. You can get other AWG wire spools to match. I keep 14 & 16awg on hand.
My buddy loves these connectors and I'm ordering some myself. Link. Saves on heat shrink, but I bought some precut for convivence since I use crimp style, Heat Shrink.
Heat gun that I use, many out there though. Link.
 
#24 · (Edited)
The relay connects all the devices in the fuse block to the Battery.
No need for a relay after the fuse block. Just use the recommend fuse size for each device.


I'm using one of my Accessory Power-On plugs to trigger the Relay. It doesn't take much power to trigger it and it's on a 7A fuse with the car.
I have a 40A relay powering a Fuse Block with 3 devices on it at the moment. A 10A; 7A & 1A. I could still add more if I want.
I like to stay under the Relays Amp rating, so I'd add another Relay / fuse block once I get close to 30A on the first one myself.
I use the 3 or 6 slot fuse blocks.

Did that answer your question?

Edit: The Accessory trigger power just makes a magnetic field in the relay which activates the switching arm that connects the fuse block to the battery.
It doesn't use hardly any amps from the accessory power source as it just need the DC voltage for the field activation.
 
#26 · (Edited)
Look for a 12 AWG wiring, 60 amp waterproof relay with 1 lead.
I'm using a 14 awg, 40 amp waterproof relay with 1 lead at the moment, but have the other harness on the shelf.
I've had good luck with MICTUNING brand from Amazon.
You just need a 1 lead for the fuse box. So check as some are 2 lead for light pods, etc.

Blue Sea Systems makes nice components. Fuse Block Link. They have a selection to choose from, just look at wiring diagram before purchase.
A 40A relay is usually rated for 32A continuous usage and 60A is 52A, so keep that in mind.
They do that for a safety factor I think, but still worth noting.
 
#35 ·
the light bar ordered comes with a 40a relay. It does have 2 leads but can’t I just cap one off and use it for my fuse block and then wire any goodies from there? If Install the fuse block, I won’t need a separate relay to my light bar so if it will work, I can just take the relay from this.
Does this sound correct?
can I use the relay from my light bar wiring?
 
#34 ·
$16 is hard to pass up for a harness though.
It's already sealed for water proofing the relay connection, get a extra switch for something else later and fuses.
 
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