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Yah, the guy on the tractor was lucky, he tried to jump off and I yelled at him to sit still and not touch anything, as those lines most always reset after the initial trip, before they fully open, and it surely did, exploding a second time shortly after the first. If it would have reset while he was trying to jump off grabbing the steel, he would have been toast. Dig alert is very useful, that line was not where it was supposed to be.
 
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So I just ordered my new light bar and rocker switch. I am looking for a diagram or very descriptive explanation on how to wire it all up. I’m not an electrical wiz but I have a basic understanding of it. My rocker switch I ordered is led and I want it to only be lit when I turn the key on.
I'll add that it's a good idea to have some extra wire and wire splices when doing electrical mods.
  • Extra wire to match AWG of harness.
  • Tooling. Wire strippers and crimpers depending on you splice connectors

I like the silicone wire myself. Link to 14awg. You can get other AWG wire spools to match. I keep 14 & 16awg on hand.
My buddy loves these connectors and I'm ordering some myself. Link. Saves on heat shrink, but I bought some precut for convivence since I use crimp style, Heat Shrink.
Heat gun that I use, many out there though. Link.
 
skelley would you recommend a relay after each connection or what size would you suggest to power the fuse block here? Looks like youre pulling power from an accessory lead?

Switch would need ground for lights. I like it though Jim, nice and simple.
I added a relay with key power-on.
Makes it easier to add more items later like Maggot mentioned.
.
View attachment 92781
 
The relay connects all the devices in the fuse block to the Battery.
No need for a relay after the fuse block. Just use the recommend fuse size for each device.


I'm using one of my Accessory Power-On plugs to trigger the Relay. It doesn't take much power to trigger it and it's on a 7A fuse with the car.
I have a 40A relay powering a Fuse Block with 3 devices on it at the moment. A 10A; 7A & 1A. I could still add more if I want.
I like to stay under the Relays Amp rating, so I'd add another Relay / fuse block once I get close to 30A on the first one myself.
I use the 3 or 6 slot fuse blocks.

Did that answer your question?

Edit: The Accessory trigger power just makes a magnetic field in the relay which activates the switching arm that connects the fuse block to the battery.
It doesn't use hardly any amps from the accessory power source as it just need the DC voltage for the field activation.
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
Switch would need ground for lights. I like it though Jim, nice and simple.
I added a relay with key power-on.
Makes it easier to add more items later like Maggot mentioned.
.
View attachment 92781
I am liking the idea of adding a fuse block for future add ons. Just like you showed me here skelley. Do you have any links for the relay and block as you showed here? Is there a specific kind or power of a relay I should get?
 
Look for a 12 AWG wiring, 60 amp waterproof relay with 1 lead.
I'm using a 14 awg, 40 amp waterproof relay with 1 lead at the moment, but have the other harness on the shelf.
I've had good luck with MICTUNING brand from Amazon.
You just need a 1 lead for the fuse box. So check as some are 2 lead for light pods, etc.

Blue Sea Systems makes nice components. Fuse Block Link. They have a selection to choose from, just look at wiring diagram before purchase.
A 40A relay is usually rated for 32A continuous usage and 60A is 52A, so keep that in mind.
They do that for a safety factor I think, but still worth noting.
 
What'd I miss?
I was removing floor joist, so all's fair in love and remodeling.....lol
 
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Looking on Amazon, the 60A relay harnesses seem to be all be sold out.
I'm only finding 40A 14awg waterproof, 1 lead.
 
This is how I've been wiring accessories for the past 20 yrs. Blue sea makes nice blocks, but generic types of the same are around for 1/3 of the price.
View attachment 92795
I'd add a in-line fuse for each device. If something shorts and blows the main fuse, you loose power to all devices.
 
$16 is hard to pass up for a harness though.
It's already sealed for water proofing the relay connection, get a extra switch for something else later and fuses.
 
Discussion starter · #35 ·
Look for a 12 AWG wiring, 60 amp waterproof relay with 1 lead.
I'm using a 14 awg, 40 amp waterproof relay with 1 lead at the moment, but have the other harness on the shelf.
I've had good luck with MICTUNING brand from Amazon.
You just need a 1 lead for the fuse box. So check as some are 2 lead for light pods, etc.

Blue Sea Systems makes nice components. Fuse Block Link. They have a selection to choose from, just look at wiring diagram before purchase.
A 40A relay is usually rated for 32A continuous usage and 60A is 52A, so keep that in mind.
They do that for a safety factor I think, but still worth noting.
the light bar ordered comes with a 40a relay. It does have 2 leads but can’t I just cap one off and use it for my fuse block and then wire any goodies from there? If Install the fuse block, I won’t need a separate relay to my light bar so if it will work, I can just take the relay from this.
Does this sound correct?
can I use the relay from my light bar wiring?
 
For sure you can use it.
You can use 1 set of leads for the bar if you want and the other set for a smaller fuse block too.
Just remember how many Amps the Light Bar uses so when you add items to the fuse block.
Or just use 1 set like you mention.
If it came with multiple fuses, select the right one for the inline fuse holder.
 
If you put a relay upstream from the fuseblock, you won't need a second relay downstream to the lightbar. If you're relay only has 2 leads it won't work. You'll need the 4 pin like in my post above.

the light bar ordered comes with a 40a relay. It does have 2 leads but can’t I just cap one off and use it for my fuse block and then wire any goodies from there? If Install the fuse block, I won’t need a separate relay to my light bar so if it will work, I can just take the relay from this.
Does this sound correct?
can I use the relay from my light bar wiring?
 
Discussion starter · #38 ·
If you put a relay upstream from the fuseblock, you won't need a second relay downstream to the lightbar. If you're relay only has 2 leads it won't work. You'll need the 4 pin like in my post above.
I will get my light bar in the mail today. I will look if it is a 4 or 5 pin. If it is 5 will it not work? Skelley seems to think it will work.
 
You should get a complete harness assembly. It will be put together already and have the wire leads ran in different directions.
It'll make more sense once you get it in hand.
 
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Your switch wires in the harness will probably be Red, White & Blue or sometimes Black.
Verify with a multimeter, but normally the Red is (+) power, White is the Trigger (+) and Blue or Black is ground.
Something to think about and verify.
 
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