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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
When doing a quick search, it appears the X machines uses several of the same parts as the Gen1 and Viking.
I noticed that wheels bearings are no exception.
Has anyone mic'd the ID & OD of a X2/X4/gen1/viking wheel bearings?
From the pictures that I've seen, they appear to be a sealed bearing w/ the plastic seal. I usually pop these off and inspect & add grease normally.
I've not had any bearing issues, but just something I was looking into as they are a wear component.
 

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I have some Gen 1 front bearings on hand I can measure if you need? Think there the same for the rear but not positive!
They are sealed as you said.
 
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From the pictures that I've seen, they appear to be a sealed bearing w/ the plastic seal. I usually pop these off and inspect & add grease normally.
I've not had any bearing issues, but just something I was looking into as they are a wear component.
+1. I do the same but some say you shouldn't do this.
 

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IIRC the main issue with that is overgreasing. I've read that the old way of grabbing a handful "o" grease and squishing it into the bearing on the palm of your hand get it packed real good, but doesn't leave enough room for heat expansion, which causes seals to leak and when cooling pulls bad juju back under the seal lip which causes premature wear. But then again, I may have read it wrong. OTOH, I've also read that folks have pulled their bearing, popped the seal and had very little grease from the factory which caused premature failure. Maybe a little squirt with the needle fitting top and bottom of the races would work better? More than factory but less than full pack?
 
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Discussion Starter #5
Yes, to much is just as bad as to little. Oil & grease.
They taught us that in bearing class and even the oils from your hand on the rollers cut down on bearing life.
There are formulas to use for proper lubrication, but 20+ yrs of Millwrighting, I've got the 'eye' for it.....lol
 
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I use a needle tip to grease my jackshaft and speedometer bearing on my Yamaha Apex, just shy of 10,000 miles and everything seems good. Those that don't grease them will lose the bearing somewhere between 4-6k miles
 

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When doing a quick search, it appears the X machines uses several of the same parts as the Gen1 and Viking.
I noticed that wheels bearings are no exception.
Has anyone mic'd the ID & OD of a X2/X4/gen1/viking wheel bearings?
From the pictures that I've seen, they appear to be a sealed bearing w/ the plastic seal. I usually pop these off and inspect & add grease normally.
I've not had any bearing issues, but just something I was looking into as they are a wear component.
E0C16987-B4C3-404A-9A3C-23A6094C7B1D.jpeg BC846332-CA66-44B0-B6C8-29BF546B5123.jpeg 6F79BBB2-4BED-4ADE-BA1D-A69EAD3E9308.jpeg
These are for all Viking/Gen1 models!

There is an old thread about wheel bearings where Tinken talks about popping out the plastic seal and replacing the grease with a good quality marine grade grease. Point being water is what kills wheel bearings.

There is also discussion in a thread about how no aftermarket bearings seem to ever last as long. From factory these bearings are pressed in, in a way that is not possible for us to reproduce. Apparently they are aligned better from factory. The reason they don’t last as long is not necessarily the quality of the bearing as much as the quality of installation. With that in mind I’m trying to run the factory ones as long as possible. I don’t do a lot of water so that’s a bonus but I did find the rear seals to be in bad order around 3500 miles and changed them to prevent contamination. I’m at 6000 plus miles now and still on original bearings.

Edit: I thought I was hitting the widest part on that 1st photo but after looking at it, I rechecked it a different way and got 72.10
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Awesome !
Thanks Budro2 :cool:
 
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So the x2 takes 6207rs bearings? Anyone have the outer seal #. It is much cheaper to go to a bearing warehouse and with the proper #'s utv parts houses can be avoided.
 
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Agree on the thought about bearing houses. But I have not been able to easily find the good seals with the wide wing on them, outside of OEM, other than aftermarket kits. Where??
 

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So the x2 takes 6207rs bearings? Anyone have the outer seal #. It is much cheaper to go to a bearing warehouse and with the proper #'s utv parts houses can be avoided.
The bearings I posted specs on came with seals. They are ALL BALLS bearings and seals and the number on the seal is F6485. Maybe that can be cross referenced?

Again that is assuming on my end that the Gen1/Viking is the same as the X!
 
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Agree on the thought about bearing houses. But I have not been able to easily find the good seals with the wide wing on them, outside of OEM, other than aftermarket kits. Where??
I replaced my rear seals at 4750 miles with ALL BALLS seals. They have the big wing on them. I haven’t had good luck with everything from ALL BALLS but I just checked the seals at 6100 miles and they look perfect!
 

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Here is what I ended up using on my 2016, Gen. 1 Wolverine when I replaced my Driver's side Rear Bearing. I started trying to track down the bearing and seal in aftermarket bearing houses and soon realized that I could buy both the bearing and seal for less than it was looking like I was going to end up spending for just the bearing and still hadn't crossed over the seal. Lots of 6207RS bearings available, crossing the seal is the harder part.

OEM Bearing
Wolverine OEM Bearing 1.jpg

OEM Seal
Wolverine OEM Seal 1.jpg

Bearing and Seal combined were $15.00 don't think it is available anymore like this.
DSCN4903.JPG

Seal package numbers
DSCN4901.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I've taken many bearings to bearing houses and they will mic them for you at the counter and search their data base for a exact alternate.
In most cases, they will even be able to offer the exact same bearing from different manufacturers.

I searched the Yamaha bearing numbers and they are the same for the Gen1, X machines and Viking.
 
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Discussion Starter #15
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Discussion Starter #17

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I replaced my rear seals at 4750 miles with ALL BALLS seals. They have the big wing on them. I haven’t had good luck with everything from ALL BALLS but I just checked the seals at 6100 miles and they look perfect!
Yea that's what I meant I have used the All Balls and liked their seals, but have not found the seals by themselves... but then again I have not looked too hard lol.
 

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Yea that's what I meant I have used the All Balls and liked their seals, but have not found the seals by themselves... but then again I have not looked too hard lol.
I ordered mine from ROCKY MTN ATV at the same time I ordered knuckle bushings.
 
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My kid just discovered muddin', heaven help my wheel bearings! Mine only has 600 miles or so on it, so hopefully should still have a while, anything particularly hard about changing them? I've done my Rhinos without a lot of problems. Does anyone have the universal number for bearings and seals for a 19 x4?
 
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