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Discussion Starter #1
I stopped by one of the local shops a few days ago and went ahead and got all my fluids for the 200 mile/20hour change when I'm ready. For the differential oil, they sold me the Yamalube shaft drive exclusive oil that says on the label that is specifically formulated for a couple of different street bikes and mentions nothing about the off road machines. Is his what I need or do I need to pick up some of the Friction Modified Shaft Drive Gear Oil?
 

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80w-80 is what is specified I believe, but because of the heat people are seeing in the rear differential I would recommend 80w-90 full synthetic if you can find it in your area.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ok thanks. The Friction modified (stuff I didn't get), says its 80W-90. He stuff the shop sold me doesn't say anything about the weight.
 

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Amsoil has great products but the differential fluid should be at least 80w-80. If it's not listed by Amsoil I would not purchase!
 

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The service manual says 80W GL4 is in it, but can use 80W90 GL4 GL5 Friction modified shaft drive oil which is what i'm switching to.
 

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If you live in the South like many of our members I would recommend 15 or 20W50 full Synthetic engine oil. the engine oil sump also lubricates the gearbox. Also your first oil change is critical. Do not exceed the recommended 20 hours/200 miles. I live in northern Michigan and changed to 15W50 full synthetic oil the first oil change at 11.1 hrs and 201 miles. Our morning temperatures are still dropping into the 40's from time to time and we have seldom seen temperatures above 80 this year but I'm using the best oil I can buy which is the Yamalube 15w50 oil. 15w50 covers the full range of temperatures I will see and the Yamalube oil has a healthy dose of esters which causes the oil to adhere where it's needed most.
 

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For those who have changed the differential oil for the 200 hour maintenance on the wolverine... what did the rear diff oil look like compared to the front? Any noticeable difference in color??
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I went ahead one ordered some of the Friction Modified 80W-90 Yamalube. Ordering my wheels and tires and accessories got me $50 free at Rocky Mountain so I got my oil and a couple of cans of Yamacoat plastic treatment. Bought a can last week and that thing is shining like a diamond in a goats ass now.
 
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Test master, did the oil have a burnt smell to it at all ? Also I've been curious as to the Wet Parking Brake, is it bathed in the same oil as the rear differential? I cant find anything about specs on it in the Service manual or anything in the owners manual.
 

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Test master, did the oil have a burnt smell to it at all ? Also I've been curious as to the Wet Parking Brake, is it bathed in the same oil as the rear differential? I cant find anything about specs on it in the Service manual or anything in the owners manual.
The oil did not have a burnt smell but that would be very unusual for 200 miles during breaking. I'll take a look and see if I can tell where the break cable enters a housing but your guess is a strong probability. One of the magazine testers noted that one of their Wolverines had a stuck parking brake but I'm pretty sure that is not the cause for the heat in the rear end because the wolverine has a warning light that turns on if you try to drive away with the parking brake left on!

Just came in from looking at the Wolverine parking brake actuation. On the left side front of the differential there is a shaft that protrudes and it has an arm attached with a cable running through it. The arm moved forward when the park brake lever was raised in the cab. So the wet brake looks like it is mounted on the front end of the differential. Hope this helps!!
 

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i am of the opinion that routine maintenance for the differentials is to avoid the harmful effects that absorption of water and other contaminants bring to the system.
 

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i am of the opinion that routine maintenance for the differentials is to avoid the harmful effects that absorption of water and other contaminants bring to the system.
Can't argue with your logic, it is one of many reasons for regular changes, especially in the rear diff. Which also has contamination added by the parking brake material and heat degradation of the fluid if temperatures are reaching the levels recorded by our forum members! It's cheap insurance cause I'd rather do the maintenance than loose a differential in mid season even though I have the 5 year warranty!
 

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Changed my rear and front diff oil with the Yamaha gear lube. Front looked like new but the rear was cream color'd. Looks like some water found it's way in there.. I've been through a lot of water and mud though. Think I'll check that much more often.
 

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Just changed my rear diff oil again after another 90ish miles. Pop'd it open and it's creamy again. Appears I must have water getting in there from somewhere. May have a hole in the vent line somewhere down low.. need to check that out. Didn't see anything obvious though.

The rear diff has been submerged a few times but nothing to crazy.
 
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