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Discussion Starter #101
Did not have enough length on the long bolt and let’s say things got interesting ouch!! But it’s apart getting threaded rod tomorrow !!
 

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GENIUS!
 
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Putting Tinkseal on the cam plate will help install the sliders.

Yeah on bolt length, but it's off and learning curve over.....lol
I put a very thin skim coat on the cup & cap groove where the spring seats, helps insure free movement.
Cup looks good, did you get a new cup, seals and o-rings or gonna reuse?
 

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Well I should be doing the install of mine next weekend once it gets here nice to see what’s coming.


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Discussion Starter #105

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Discussion Starter #106
Putting Tinkseal on the cam plate will help install the sliders.

Yeah on bolt length, but it's off and learning curve over.....lol
I put a very thin skim coat on the cup & cap groove where the spring seats, helps insure free movement.
Cup looks good, did you get a new cup, seals and o-rings or gonna reuse?
Gonna reuse I’m sick of ordering stuff Hahahaha!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #107
Well I should be doing the install of mine next weekend once it gets here nice to see what’s coming.


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It’s honestly a heck of a job to get to this thing in the x4 man o man!!
 

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Discussion Starter #108

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Gonna reuse I’m sick of ordering stuff Hahahaha!!!
I had to reuse seals, after greasing the secondary and before spring install, work them back & forth to see if you develop grease line between the sheaves.
 

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Discussion Starter #110
I had to reuse seals, after greasing the secondary and before spring install, work them back & forth to see if you develop grease line between the sheaves.
If I do I would assume a seal is bad??
 

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Discussion Starter #111
Purchased some half inch threaded rod. Im ready to take this spring on again. No more boo boos
 
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If I do I would assume a seal is bad??
Seals wear and you can get bypass from grease. You don't want Tinkseal or any lube on the belt.
I worked the sheaves back & forth while cleaning until I obtained a 'no grease line'.
It's in my thread. Post #48
 

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Keep at it Brando. Doing good. Got mine all installed today. Hopefully I can get some axles soon to test it fully. I’m going to take the machine to deer camp so a lot of low speed stuff. I shouldn’t have issues with the axles doing that. Let’s just say I will have some stuff for sale soon. 😂

89147
 

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Seals wear and you can get bypass from grease. You don't want Tinkseal or any lube on the belt.
I worked the sheaves back & forth while cleaning until I obtained a 'no grease line'.
It's in my thread. Post #48
I reused the seals they looked good. I did install the new spring cup. I did the same as you worked the secondary until no grease line with the tinkseal
 

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Discussion Starter #115
I reused the seals they looked good. I did install the new spring cup. I did the same as you worked the secondary until no grease line with the tinkseal
Have you tried the sheave yet? I’m curious as to the amount of difference that was felt in the seat of your pants.
 

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Have you tried the sheave yet? I’m curious as to the amount of difference that was felt in the seat of your pants.
Not yet. I will have to wait until I get axles to do a good test. I want to save what’s left of them for deer season. I will say RPM is lower and initial engagement is lower rpm. Seems less jumpy than the Hunterworks.
 

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Discussion Starter #117
Well it’s in!!! Soon as new heat runs are done and windshield is delivered I’ll be in business!
 

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Just as a side note the spring retainer nut is 2 3/16” . If going this route I’d recommend marking your socket with a mark on the secondary to make finding the correct position again easy.


Also got ours put in now the fun part getting everything back together.

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Discussion Starter #119
Just as a side note the spring retainer nut is 2 3/16” . If going this route I’d recommend marking your socket with a mark on the secondary to make finding the correct position again

not following ya?? What ya mean.
 

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If you mark the outside of the socket so it lines up with the lines on the secondary you can run the nut down by hand to start and then place your socket on to finish up tightening by lining up all the marks. On mine it has three marks that all lined up in red I just marked the socket to align with when tightening.



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