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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I went riding over the weekend and for the second trip out in a row, I completely sheared my Right, Rear, Outside CV Boot, right at the band clamp. The first time, it was the stock axle, stock boot and clamp. This time it was an aftermarket replacement axle that I had swapped in, keeping the stock one for a spare after replacing the boot. Both exhibited signs of something rubbing on the boot until it wore through, then completely separated. I checked everything possible that could have any remote chance of contacting the boot under any suspension position, and there is nothing on the machine that could cause this. You can see in the pictures the suspension in the normal loaded position, and then when jacked up in the air and full extension. The fact that it was two different manufacturers of boots, clamps, and axles, should rule out those as the cause. This means there is some environmental aspect causing this. Heat doesn't make any sense, as the other boots would have the same issue, and none are. It honestly looks like a rock got wedged under the boot and just wore it away, but what are the odds of it happening twice in a row to the exact same location's boot? I do recall a few other individuals here mentioning tearing boots, and I know at least two said it was this same location. I had thoughts that somehow the lift kit was causing this, but I can find zero evidence to point to that. I ordered a few more boot kits and some CV Savers as well, hopefully they will help mitigate the issue. Maybe it is just a coincidence, but it's still really weird. I'm curious how many more of you have torn boots and which ones you have torn.

 

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I am on my third rear boot. All outer boots two left and one right. I do belive it is also environmental (rocks sticks or anything rubbing the boot) once I looked and there was a stick in there beating the boot. All mine have split just like yours right at the band. Yamaha used to make cv boot guards that wrapped around the boot and we're made from kevlar I thibk. . These worked really well to protect against pokes and rubs .. thinking about adapting a pair to the Wolverine
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I am on my third rear boot. All outer boots two left and one right. I do belive it is also environmental (rocks sticks or anything rubbing the boot) once I looked and there was a stick in there beating the boot. All mine have split just like yours right at the band. Yamaha used to make cv boot guards that wrapped around the boot and we're made from kevlar I thibk. . These worked really well to protect against pokes and rubs .. thinking about adapting a pair to the Wolverine
That is what I have been thinking about. I am going to give these CV Savers a try, see if they help.
 

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I have never had good luck with a-arm guards, unless I do some heavy mods, I believe they retain to much crap in inside and cause CV boot issues
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I have never had good luck with a-arm guards, unless I do some heavy mods, I believe they retain to much crap in inside and cause CV boot issues
I hear ya there...But these a-arms are so wide that the guards don't seem to ever get packed full for me. It seems like whatever is causing this is probably wedging between the cv hub and the a-arm below it. I suppose time will tell.
 

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Just punch a hole in my rear boot, this past weekend aghhh
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I wonder if those cv savers install without removing the axle. It may be worth it even if I have to remove the axle. I have not had one tear yet..
Sorry I haven't updated this thread. The CV savers turned out to be a waste of time, at least for me. They are so big and bulky that they will not fit on the outer CV without worrying about contact with the a-arms and ripping off. The inner CV they would fit, but honestly after having them in my hands I decided not to even install them there, they just dont seem like they would help that much. Very bulky and seem like they would get ripped off and cause more harm then good.


As for the a-arm guards causing damage to the boots, that's definitely not what is happening with mine. The a-arm itself is causing the issue. There is such a small space between the arm and the CV, rocks and sticks get wedged there whenever going through a mud hole. I found this out a few trips ago, so now I am staying out of the deep holes.

As a side note, I did manage to grenade a CV joint the last trip out. Cruising at 35mph, low gear, pinned throttle, slight uphill over nasty rutted out trail, caught some air and all of the sudden the machine want to go left even when steering right. Thought I had a flat, got out and all tires were good. Gave it light gas and it started digging a hole in the rocks with the right wheel. Felt the CV on the left rear and while the boot was intact, the joint was completely gone. I limped back in 4wd(thank god I don't have a Polaris) and when I opens the boot it was just a pile of shards. This was an aftermarket axle too, but hey, that's what happens when you don't let off the throttle in the air lol.
 

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ditch the a-arm guards, they hold the crap in there


No A-Arm guards, here but I figure it happened bush whacking on a over grown trail last week, Ordered me an aftermarket boot, and plan to tear into it soon, not a fan of the pinned nut Yamaha uses, makes trail repairs a impossibble I like the castle nut and carter key system oh well, its what I got.............
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
No A-Arm guards, here but I figure it happened bush whacking on a over grown trail last week, Ordered me an aftermarket boot, and plan to tear into it soon, not a fan of the pinned nut Yamaha uses, makes trail repairs a impossibble I like the castle nut and carter key system oh well, its what I got.............
Not sure why the staked nut on your stock axle would prohibit you from a trail repair any more than the castle nut with cotter pin would?? If you are carrying tools to replace an axle on the trail anyway, throw a small pointed punch and hammer in the tool box; problem solved. The benefit of having the staked nut in my eyes is that you can tighten the nut properly every time, and not worry about a hole and the castle nut lining up for the cotter pin. Not too mention the staked nut has less likelihood to back off in my experience.
 

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takes one heck of a torque driver to spin that nut off, Had to break out the big ass Torque driver on that thing my 250 ft/lb one wouldn't touch it but the 700/1200lb Dewalt XR spun it off with no problems, though I prefer not to buzz around the trails with a $350 driver in my box. IMO
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
takes one heck of a torque driver to spin that nut off, Had to break out the big ass Torque driver on that thing my 250 ft/lb one wouldn't touch it but the 700/1200lb Dewalt XR spun it off with no problems, though I prefer not to buzz around the trails with a $350 driver in my box. IMO
Ohhh...I think I see the problem here. You know you can use the punch not just to create the stake(dimple in the nut) but to remove it as well?! Just use a pointed punch and drive it between the key in the axle shaft and the staked part of the nut. It will push it up enough that the nut will spin right off with the same amount of force required to put it on. I carry in my tool box an extendable lug wrench that is basically nothing more than a 24" breaker bar with a goose neck on it and a 1/2" drive head. Just set the parking break good and firm and I guarantee you will have no trouble breaking that nut loose. The bar cost me like 15$ from walmart several years ago.

EDIT:
Here is the bar I am talking about. Super handy.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Torin-Jacks-Extendable-Lug-Wrench/14560053
 

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Oh I did push up on the dimple, It didn't move even with a same type bar you detailed above, manual states something like 250 or 273 ft/lbs. Using the cheater bar I could lift up machine off the ground and that thing would not budge, thus time to bring out the XR dewalt and spin that thing off
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Oh I did push up on the dimple, It didn't move even with a same type bar you detailed above, manual states something like 250 or 273 ft/lbs. Using the cheater bar I could lift up machine off the ground and that thing would not budge, thus time to bring out the XR dewalt and spin that thing off
Oh wow. I can't say I had that problem. Though, to be fair, I did not lift up, I pushed down. And I did so with my foot and standing on the bar with a quick jerk to break it loose lol. I used a milwaukee cordless impact at home, that thing is a beast haha! Oh and yes, factory spec is 253 ft/lb. I suppose you could pack a cheater pipe too lol!
 
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