[therebel19]

I don't have a clunk but my passenger side front CV boot is starting to leak. Yamaha replaced the whole axle last winter. I'm going to plumper tape it and ride on. I don't have any noises so they probably won't warranty just a leak but I'm not waiting weeks or months for Yamaha's solution either. Hell, I'm still waiting on my AV pro mount from last year that Yamaha has failed to send to my dealer.

 

[DWRAT]

I don't have a clunk but my passenger side front CV boot is starting to leak. Yamaha replaced the whole axle last winter. I'm going to plumper tape it and ride on. I don't have any noises so they probably won't warranty just a leak but I'm not waiting weeks or months for Yamaha's solution either. Hell, I'm still waiting on my AV pro mount from last year that Yamaha has failed to send to my dealer.

Why not take it in and have them order you a replacement under warranty.They don't need to keep your bike while the axle is on order.
Bring it back when the part comes in.
No tape in the world will keep the grease from coming out.

 

[therebel19]

I've fixed many with boots with rubber plumbers tape. All my Wildcat boots had it and never leaked again. I don't feel like them keeping my machine 2 or 3 weeks to diagnose and get the OK is justifiable for my time spent hauling it and leaving it there just to get denied.

 

[therebel19]

It's electricians tape not plumbers tape. This is what I use.
Black 3M™ 2155 Rubber Splicing Electrical Tape

https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b00017540/

Clean around the boot with carb or brake cleaner and then stretch the tape while applying. I've only tried this around where the clamp is. I don't think it would work further down to boot but mine is sipping around the inner clamp.

 

[Sid]

I don't have a clunk but my passenger side front CV boot is starting to leak. Yamaha replaced the whole axle last winter. I'm going to plumper tape it and ride on. I don't have any noises so they probably won't warranty just a leak but I'm not waiting weeks or months for Yamaha's solution either. Hell, I'm still waiting on my AV pro mount from last year that Yamaha has failed to send to my dealer.

I repaired a slice in my passenger side front outer cv boot months ago and haven’t had any grease leak since. I cleaned it with brake clean and used black gorilla duct tape

 

[Timboslice]

So when I ordered my axle I selected all the Rmax 4 options on website. Are these 2 seater axles? The website I believe allowed this. Look at the box your axle came in that you ordered for your 4 seater, if it matches the number below, its was wrong. @SuperATV Please explain this if I am wrong, but it says "front only" for Rmax 4

 

[wolvymanx4]

Front axles should be the same on the 2 and 4 seaters. I have 3 SuperATV 4 seater rear axle boxes. I'm about to get off to work right now but I'll check the part numbers for ya later.

 

[SuperATV]

So when I ordered my axle I selected all the Rmax 4 options on website. Are these 2 seater axles? The website I believe allowed this. Look at the box your axle came in that you ordered for your 4 seater, if it matches the number below, its was wrong. @SuperATV Please explain this if I am wrong, but it says "front only" for Rmax 4

View attachment 109477

View attachment 109475

Yeah, same axles. I brought this thread up, and mentioned that the OEM rears are popping on lifted machines and that I've seen a few of ours starting to pop too. My testing engineers just turned it off for the 4 seater and they want to try to replicate it here. So far, no luck. Our OEM rears were popping though. Can't get them 2.0s to pop yet. We'll probably turn them back on on the website soon.

I also checked the warranty numbers and we're running at about 1%, so that's pretty awesome.

 

[Timboslice]

Yeah, same axles. I brought this thread up, and mentioned that the OEM rears are popping on lifted machines and that I've seen a few of ours starting to pop too. My testing engineers just turned it off for the 4 seater and they want to try to replicate it here. So far, no luck. Our OEM rears were popping though. Can't get them 2.0s to pop yet. We'll probably turn them back on on the website soon.

I also checked the warranty numbers and we're running at about 1%, so that's pretty awesome.

I’m aware the fronts are the same but the rears were sold by super atv with the same superatv rear part number for both 2 and 4 seaters, before it was removed as a 4 seater rear option on the site. My rhino shaft box shows the 2 seater part number(then 4 seater also), that rear axle was sold as a rear 4 seater axle option. Its not a 4 seater option now but remains a 2 seater option for a rear shaft. That’s proven above in my photos.
After further research and speaking to other members on Rmax Facebook group. It was said that superatv is honoring the return because the rear axles were being sold 2 both platforms. I will be calling tomorrow to confirm. I will also be measuring the rear rhino I was sold by superatv as a rear rmax4 shaft, and the new Yamaha rear I just purchased. If these lengths are different, there’s a lot of people that were sold wrong parts by superatv, and dealers for their Rmax 4.

 

[Timboslice]

Crude measuring for sure, but it does not even need a tape to see how far off these 2 are. I am not trying to bash a product, my main concern is that the integrity of this machine is being taunted due to the fact that consumers (myself included), bought these rhino axles either in need of a repair or in a panic to have a spare. Yamaha dealers even pointed them in this direction. They are now removed from your website as a rmax 4 rear option, but still and always have remained a rmax 2 rear option. Others with these axles and 4 seaters are posting about popping after replacing, some have said they are not staying inside the diff fully. Its clear to me why we see problems still with new rhino axles and rmax 4's. If I am wrong, then I am wrong and have no issue being shown why. If superatv is wrong, I hope they will do the right thing.

 

[wolvymanx4]

I’m aware the fronts are the same but the rears were sold by super atv with the same superatv rear part number for both 2 and 4 seaters, before it was removed as a 4 seater rear option on the site. My rhino shaft box shows the 2 seater part number(then 4 seater also), that rear axle was sold as a rear 4 seater axle option. Its not a 4 seater option now but remains a 2 seater option for a rear shaft. That’s proven above in my photos.
After further research and speaking to other members on Rmax Facebook group. It was said that superatv is honoring the return because the rear axles were being sold 2 both platforms. I will be calling tomorrow to confirm. I will also be measuring the rear rhino I was sold by superatv as a rear rmax4 shaft, and the new Yamaha rear I just purchased. If these lengths are different, there’s a lot of people that were sold wrong parts by superatv, and dealers for their Rmax 4.

Crude measuring for sure, but it does not even need a tape to see how far off these 2 are. I am not trying to bash a product, my main concern is that the integrity of this machine is being taunted due to the fact that consumers (myself included), bought these rhino axles either in need of a repair or in a panic to have a spare. Yamaha dealers even pointed them in this direction. They are now removed from your website as a rmax 4 rear option, but still and always have remained a rmax 2 rear option. Others with these axles and 4 seaters are posting about popping after replacing, some have said they are not staying inside the diff fully. Its clear to me why we see problems still with new rhino axles and rmax 4's. If I am wrong, then I am wrong and have no issue being shown why. If superatv is wrong, I hope they will do the right thing.

View attachment 109518
View attachment 109517
View attachment 109520

View attachment 109519
View attachment 109516
View attachment 109515

Wow. I knew something was wrong. There's no way a 3 brand new axles, especially on a stock height machine, are going to start knocking or popping after basically one or two rides. I do drive hard but like I said before. The OEM Yamaha axles have never had anything close to an issue like that for me. You know I still haven't contacted them since I went back to stock axles. The whole thing stressed me out too much. Mainly due to the 2 months of riding season I lost due to it all. Made my blood pressure high. LOL

Keep me posted and definitely let me know what you find out when you contact them.

 

[Timboslice]

Yeah, same axles. I brought this thread up, and mentioned that the OEM rears are popping on lifted machines and that I've seen a few of ours starting to pop too. My testing engineers just turned it off for the 4 seater and they want to try to replicate it here. So far, no luck. Our OEM rears were popping though. Can't get them 2.0s to pop yet. We'll probably turn them back on on the website soon.

I also checked the warranty numbers and we're running at about 1%, so that's pretty awesome.

The Rmax2 and Rmax4 rear shafts are different!! Yamaha has 2 different axle shafts for the 2 and 4 seat models. SuperAtv sold the rears as 1 part number for both models until recently. My opinion is that they turned it off because they realized they made 1 style rear shaft instead of 2, assumed it was universal to both models. Lets stop defending the strength at this point, this is a size and research issue.

 

[SuperATV]

You have to measure fully extended and fully compressed. The Rhino 2.0 have a whole lot of plunge on both ends. They are well within the tolerances of both, the 2 seater and 4 seater.

Another thing about the 2.0's... They are all the same, from machine to machine. The only thing that changes from machine to machine is the splined shaft and the shaft length. The CV internals are the same for these as they are for the high HP Turbo machines.

 

[Timboslice]

You have to measure fully extended and fully compressed. The Rhino 2.0 have a whole lot of plunge on both ends. They are well within the tolerances of both, the 2 seater and 4 seater.

Another thing about the 2.0's... They are all the same, from machine to machine. The only thing that changes from machine to machine is the splined shaft and the shaft length. The CV internals are the same for these as they are for the high HP Turbo machines.

So the Rhino 2.0s for the Rmax rear are universal for both the 2 seater and the 4 seater? Is that what you are clarifying? They are universal because they have so much free play in the joint that they meet tolerances for both models?
Why do you have the option to choose a model when purchasing then? Why did you remove Rmax 4 rears as an option, and not just list them as compatible to both?

 

[Vroom]

I could be wrong but most guys I have spoken with(mind you it was three people lol) had issues at higher mileage on oem. Which i think is normal

 

[SuperATV]

So the Rhino 2.0s for the Rmax rear are universal for both the 2 seater and the 4 seater? Is that what you are clarifying? They are universal because they have so much free play in the joint that they meet tolerances for both models?
Why do you have the option to choose a model when purchasing then? Why did you remove Rmax 4 rears as an option, and not just list them as compatible to both?

Yes, the axle plunge of the 2.0 axle exceeds the fully compressed and fully extended requirements of both the 2 seat and 4 seat machines, making them universal for both models. You have to choose a model because that's just part of the software. We can track how many are purchased for 4 seaters or 2 seaters and get a better idea of how many of each model are out there and what their needs are. This is why you will often see a # and letters at the end of a part number on our website. The # means that same part is located somewhere else on the website (fits something else), and the letters after the # indicate what machine it is for. Just for market research. The 4 seat option was removed because I do a report ever week on everything I've read, and my engineers check everything out. So far, we haven't been able to replicate the issue with the 2.0, but we do have some clicking OEM axles. I'm betting we'll turn it back on on the website pretty soon.

 

[Vroom]

Any updates on this?

 

[SuperATV]

Nope. Haven't been able to recreate it. Its been out on the bounty course a few times and out at the farm getting beaten up.

I think the 4 seaters are going to see this with OEM's more...but still the occasional aftermarket HD axle with a bigger CV. The full drop suspension angle on rear on the 4 seaters is way more than it should be for any axle. Limit straps in the rear should help.

 

[Vroom]

so what route did the OP finally go?

 

[Archer01]

Read clear through this thread this morning. One thing that is not clear at all, is what exactly is 'clicking'? . CV joint? Axle spline?... Locked Diff?

Seems to me that if angle is causing some of this, you apply some weight to the rear.. make it squat a bit... even the CV angles out... and if it was the angle, that click should go away... but the fact that this is happening more in turns on hard pavement... just screams diff at me. Anybody have a parts breakdown of the rear diff on these? I'm going to go through my service manual and check as well...
Just seems that if there was a hard click... you would be able to see some metal to metal contact somewhere... ?

Gonna be late for work now.. had to pull the service manual out.. .okay.. not the diff... unless there is some interaction with ring gear clearances and axle length...