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Thoughts On SuperATV Rhino 2.0 Axles - Knocking Already

14132 Views 177 Replies 32 Participants Last post by  wolvymanx4
So a few weeks ago on the RMAX FB group there was a guy with an RMAX4 that had just installed Rhino 2.0 axles and was having a CV knocking on his rear passenger side. One other person also chimed in with a video of their Rhino 2.0 doing the same thing. I had chimed in on that post saying that I had just installed them without any knocking issues. I would put a link to that video but it was a FB upload not a Youtube so I couldn't figure a way to do it. But three rides after my installation I am now having the same issue on my drivers side rear axle. I already changed the passenger side twice because the first one I put in had a hole in the inner boot right out of the box. SuperATV was awesome and warrantied it right away but now this on the drivers side. I am tired of changing axles and not being able to ride. I haven't contacted them on this one yet due to my work schedule lately but here is a video of me going down my street. You can hear it distinctly though. I'm not sure if they had received a bad batch or what but so far I am not impressed with these axles.
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SATV has a history of being outstanding with these situations and for working with companies like Slick Rock who continually test the limits of there products, find the weak points and then work on improving the product.

I can understand the frustration on Wolvymans end for sure, however we should all be patient on this on not draw any early conclusions. If there’s lots of these axles going bad I’m sure they’ll get it resolved. A poor one here and there is just going to be reality. That goes for leaking boots too. I just fixed an OEM boot that began seeping under the band at 700ish miles. I’ve bought a brand new boot that was leaking from a defect from factory on the first ride, after all the trouble of changing it. I’ve bought a HD replacement axle (not SATV) that made all kinds of noise after 700 miles of easy riding and then replaced it with the cheapest possible replacement available, and had it going strong after thousands of miles when I sold the machine.
It’s sucks but it’s part of the imperfect world we live in.

I’m not on Facebook and I don’t know if there is a common issue here but it’s possible lightning struck twice at once for Wolvyman.
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So, clicks are OK?
I'm a noob to noises, and would expect a click not to be an issue.
Let the debate begin!
I’ve had 2 different axles through the years begin to click.
I disassembled and cleaned the CV joint on both looking for the smoking gun.
While a hairline crack in the inner cage that holds the ball bearings in place can be the culprit, I never found anything wrong with either one.
One of them was on standby for a spare after that but I never needed it or ran it again. With the other one, I turned the inner cage around the opposite direction and changed the order of the ball bearings from the waythey came out. It quit clicking for about another 1000 miles but eventually started again.

It’s annoying if there bad. Both of mine only did it in a tight turn. Wasn’t to big of deal. I’ve always told everyone on the forum that got one and were panicked before a big ride, to go ride and not let it stop there fun. Typically nothing happens.

It can get in your head however because the circumstances do arise where a CV gets injured on a ride but is working, then on the next ride under stress it’s fails. You never really know till you tear it apart.

The clicking axle discussion has been going on since before the side by side was invented. If you do a search, it’s just as common on the ATV forums.
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What click? LOL. My CV was knocking like one in a front wheel drive car that had a hole in its boot, lost all its grease and was ready to explode. Plus I have never heard a knock like that from any axle in any SXS that I ever owned. Now I have only owned 3 SXS's so far but they've all been Yamahas. I think that is enough to form an opinion though. My Rhino was still on original axles that never made a sound. On my X4 I had changed out one OEM due to only a leaky boot but changed the boot after I switched the axles to have an extra that went with it when I sold it. But they never made a sound after the 3,600 miles I put on it. As far as the RMAX4 goes we all know the story. Hahaha. But those axles never made a sound either after 2,600 and I just put one of the 2 originals back in that still doesn't make any noise. The other will eventually have the boot replaced to use as a spare if I ever need it. Not saying it can't happen but to me it's anything but normal. It was definitely embarrassing to drive the machine that I probably am into 30K down to road when its making noise like that. Especially after I supposedly just installed upgraded parts. Not gonna put up with that.
I don’t think anyone could live with the sound I heard on your video!!!!
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Just wait till people start buying these EV SxS's that are coming. They're silent, and you're going to hear everything.... :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:
Nailed it!!!!!!
Suddenly loud exhaust and cvt whine will be welcomed!
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Polaris suspension squeaks and creaks are bad enough over the drive train noise. Silent engine might drive many over the edge.
Worst I’ve ever heard are some of the CanAm Mavericks and X3s. Let’s just fill a pond with WD40 and put them on soak!
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One more thing about SxS axles....

These are considered a "fuse," and considered a sacrificial part on these machines. The 2.0's are way stronger than stock, but are still designed to break just before damaging your diff or trans. Its way cheaper and easier to replace an axle than to replace your transmission...etc. Breaking an axle isn't a scary bad thing. Its totally normal in this sport. The clicking is fine...annoying, but fine. Not normally covered under the warranty, but I'd cover it in a heartbeat on a fresh install.

We will continue seeing this with the Rmax. The same is going on with the Talon OE axles. The rear end suspension doesn't play will with any axle angle. They also don't respond well to much side load. Since this has been brought up, I've started noticing a TON of complaints on popping OEM axles. A lot of guys are buying ours, and it fixes it most of the time....but sometimes they still pop. This will happen the other way too, I'm sure. Our CV's are much bigger...allowing more angle. This should be the fix, technically, but there will always be exceptions.

A few years ago we decided to build a line of unbreakable axles. They were going to be called the White Rhino (white powdered shaft and white boots). These were going to be the last axle you'd ever buy...mostly for the GIANT tire mud guys. Well....we decided to kill the line before releasing them because all they were doing was grenading differentials and transmissions in testing. We figured having the unbreakable axle that wrecked machines was probably not the best thing for the guys that thought the unbreakable axles were what they needed.
Are these Rmax axle complaints mostly related to the Four seater?
With the OEM axles it seems that the rear of the 4 seat is where the vast majority of problems have existed.
Im just curious if it’s the same with the 2.0 axles as well?
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I'm kidding. I had to replace one if my front axles with a rhino 2.0. So far so good.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
This is what I’m wondering. Is this just a rear of the Rmax 4 issue on clicking.
Are front axles of both machines and rear axles of the 2 seat typically fine, OEM and/or Rhino.
Let’s not as a group get scared away from the only other axles we can get if it’s pretty much just an Rmax 4 rear axle thing!
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I was referring to the 4 seaters being heavier than the 2 seaters on the rear. Which would have the CVs freewheeling and hooking up in my scenario above. I said nothing about speed. Not sure if your trying to be funny or screwing with me. I don’t feel what I said is stupid. Just giving my input.
Trust me, he’s being funny!
He s never rude!
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So i finally got around to lowering my preload to see if it changed anything with the clunk. It was at the max. I went to the middle of the range and it’s still making the clunk sound. So I guess I’m in the bad axle club with less than 1000 miles.

Question for those who’ve fixed this already. It clunks on right turns but not left. I’m assuming it’s the passenger rear axle that’s faulty. What do you think? Don’t want to pull the wrong side for no reason.

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Based on my past with a different machine I’d agree with that, however it should be easy to confirm if you just have someone drive it in a tight circle slowly while you walk along side and listen.
I took my 22 RMAX4 into the dealer for knocking stock cv joints after about 1300 miles of riding. Initially they tried ordering Yamaha axles but found they were on an infinite backorder. They asked me if I'd be ok with them ordering the Rhino axles instead so a agreed. Upon installing the new Rhino axles they had the same knocking experience as in your video and returned the axles to SuperATV.
Luckily my dealer tried a new set of factory axles off one of their managers machines and no more noise. I'm now waiting almost three months for Yamaha to find some stock axles so I can actually ride my machine again very frustrating.
Did they re-install the OEM clicking axles?
That’s what I would do, I then I’d be riding the whole time I’m waiting on replacements.
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Read clear through this thread this morning. One thing that is not clear at all, is what exactly is 'clicking'? . CV joint? Axle spline?... Locked Diff?

Seems to me that if angle is causing some of this, you apply some weight to the rear.. make it squat a bit... even the CV angles out... and if it was the angle, that click should go away... but the fact that this is happening more in turns on hard pavement... just screams diff at me. Anybody have a parts breakdown of the rear diff on these? I'm going to go through my service manual and check as well...
Just seems that if there was a hard click... you would be able to see some metal to metal contact somewhere... ?

Gonna be late for work now.. had to pull the service manual out.. .okay.. not the diff... unless there is some interaction with ring gear clearances and axle length...
It’s the CV joint.
The quickest way to get a CV joint to click when uncertain is to put the machine in a tight turn.
I have heard what Bumblebee is explaining many times in a hard corner with the locked spool.
It is a one time pop and not the continuous click of a CV joint.

What Wolvyman had couldn’t even be described as the common clicker, it was something awful that no ones ears could tolerate and there is no way it would have lasted 1000s of miles before destruction. It was just plain a bad axle from the start.
What…? The diff and/or hubs don’t like the angle? The stock angle, differential, and hub bearings are not a common issue
That’s another scammer, not making a lick of sense!
I got a PM saying the same. Should I pitch a tent by the mailbox? JK. LOL
Not that it’s any of my business but I’ve followed this thread from the start, and since all this has been public anyway, I’m curious if you ever sent a PM to our SATV rep as asked, or were you just suddenly sent a PM that a refund would come?
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