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Thanks! So far so good also. I've disconnected/reconnected them multiple times now, and it's fast and easy. Very pleased with the way they turned out. I use my machine around town (pavement) a lot and I leave them connected for that purpose, then disconnect them when going onto the trial. There is a very good chance that one day I might just remove the whole sway bar (rear) eventually, but for now, I like it's street manners with them connected!
So the biggest issue I found was making them SHORT enough. I didn't want anything longer than stock length and I ordered, received and sent back quite a few variations before I settled on the components I ended up using.
That said...it's not perfect. The "tie rod ends" have a different internal thread (female) than the heim joint threads (male). I'm not sure what the big deal is, but I literally could not find males/females with the same threads. So I tried them anyway and surprisingly...this was a non issue. The heim joints threaded into the tie rod ends with slightly more effort than normal and cut it's own threads as it went...likely due to the softness of the tie rod end metal. The lock nut was really not even necessary at that point since it was fairly tight, but I put the lock nuts on anyway. I think they exist out there somewhere, and maybe I even just overlooked the link on amazon...but as mentioned, this works great and no issues. It might even be a little tighter than if the threads were the same! Ok, now that I've made that disclaimer...here are the links/parts list, that I used:

2 of these. These are the HEIM JOINTS. Be sure to get the "SA10T/K (10mm) $8.99 each. Sydien SA10T/K Right-Hand Rod End Bearing M10 Male Thread Economy Self Lubricating for Machinery, Automation Equipment & CNC (2 Pcs): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

2 of these. These are the TIE ROD ENDS. Be sure to get the "M10*1.25" Right Hand Thread. Again, this is a slightly different thread pitch, but they screw together just fine, likely tighter than if the threads were the same. Curious to see if you can find the ones with the correct threads! $11.49 each. Sydien Carbon Steel SQ10-RS Rod End Ball Head M10x1.25 Right-Hand Female Thread Bearing Economy Self Lubricating with Stud for Cylinders & Linkages (2 Pcs): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

1 5-pack of these. These are the bolts. Cut the ends off, file them down a little, then drill a hole in them. The Heim Joints (above) slip onto these. Only 2 required, so you will have 3 extra (I ruined 1 experimenting) $6.69. Amazon.com: The Hillman Group 3467 Hex Cap Screw Metric M10-1.25 By 75mm, 5-Pack: Home Improvement

1 10-pack of these. $7.68. These are the nuts. You really only end up needing 4 of these, since you will also re-use your original 4 sway bar link nuts, so you will have a few extra, but it saved me a trip to Home Depot. Amazon.com: Prime-Line 9088205 Finished Hex Nuts, Class 8 Metric, M10-1.25, Zinc Plated Steel, 10-Pack: Home Improvement

Other than that, 2 "Everbilt Hitch Pin Clips, 3/4" From Home Depot for the pins and then these small copper washers for spacers on either side of the Heim Joints. (Washers didn't work...they interfered with the movement of the heim joints, I later cut a couple of spacers from a hollow aluminum tube but the copper washers worked fine...just had to stack them each time). Amazon.com: Crush Washer Karcy Copper Crush Washer 10mm Ring Gasket Copper and Alloy Copper Stone Pack of 50: Home Improvement

That's the stuff I used. A little over $50 or so. I figured that was worth the gamble and wouldn't have been out much had they not worked out. Again, so far, absolutely no issues. They are exactly the same dimensions/length/etc. of the original links when installed so no re-engineering was necessary for anything.

Hope this helps!

Randy
Wow! Thanks for the thorough reply! That’ll make this venture way easier on me 😁. I’ll look around for some matching thread pitch components. Although, you know what they say, cross threaded is better than loctite lol!
 

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2020 X2 XT-R 850
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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Wow! Thanks for the thorough reply! That’ll make this venture way easier on me 😁. I’ll look around for some matching thread pitch components. Although, you know what they say, cross threaded is better than loctite lol!
Lol, yup! I'm an old mechanic by trade and I'm pretty ocd about "exact fit" and such. I didn't realize the internal pitch of the tie rods was wrong until I literally went to assemble them. Out in my garage...late at night...wanted to get it done to try it out the next day, etc. After putting the jam nut on the heim joint, I went to screw the heim joint into the tie rod end by hand...and it only went in about a half a turn then stopped. Unscrewing it, you could see that the pitch was wrong. I decided to try and screw it together anyway and with hand wrenches it screwed together with very little effort, making it's own threads as it went. After I screwed it all the way together, I removed it to see what the threads looked like and they actually look like they were made that way and it now fit tight and secure...probably tighter than if the threads were the same to begin with!
What I'm trying to say is...If I were to make another set right now for a buddy?...I would get the EXACT same components again and just do it. It works that well. No issues at all with the mismatched threads. Non issue.
Good luck! Post pics!
Randy
 

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I just did this to the front of my Rmax. Same parts and worked threading together no problem just as stated. I only ordered the rod end and hiem joint. The rest I got at the hardware store. They actually had the rod end and hiem joint as well but the rod end didn’t look to durable. Neto made it easy to order and they showed up in like 2 days!
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Thanks Neto.
The 2 seat Rmax with no rear sway bar and more travel rides very well and flex’s great for most all my riding. While the added body roll isn’t near as significant as earlier models unhooked I’ve found I prefer it hooked up when I’m really pushing it in corners. It just handles better and my wife really appreciates it. She doesn’t grip the OMG handle quite as hard. This sure would have been nice at sand hollow when we were ripping the dunes after crawling and still had it disconnected!
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
I just did this to the front of my Rmax. Same parts and worked threading together no problem just as stated. I only ordered the rod end and hiem joint. The rest I got at the hardware store. They actually had the rod end and hiem joint as well but the rod end didn’t look to durable. Neto made it easy to order and they showed up in like 2 days!
Thanks Neto.
The 2 seat Rmax with no rear sway bar and more travel rides very well and flex’s great for most all my riding. While the added body roll isn’t near as significant as earlier models unhooked I’ve found I prefer it hooked up when I’m really pushing it in corners. It just handles better and my wife really appreciates it. She doesn’t grip the OMG handle quite as hard. This sure would have been nice at sand hollow when we were ripping the dunes after crawling and still had it disconnected!

Sweet! That looks great! I still need to do that to the front of my X2, glad to know it works on the front also! I love the ability to disconnect and reconnect on the rear!
 

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@ Budro / N.E.T.O. Do you guys think this rod end is plenty strong enough for a sway bar link? I would hate to have one of those pop loose on a hard corner!
 

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@ Budro / N.E.T.O. Do you guys think this rod end is plenty strong enough for a sway bar link? I would hate to have one of those pop loose on a hard corner!
I guess I’ll find out, but yes i think the rod end is if anything more robust than the OEM one. That’s just a visual perception of course but it sure doesn’t look lighter duty and I doubt all the grease will start leaking out from around the edge of the seal like both of my OEM ones already are just from unbolting them on 2 different occasions. My gut feeling is it’s a lot better quality.
 
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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
@ Budro / N.E.T.O. Do you guys think this rod end is plenty strong enough for a sway bar link? I would hate to have one of those pop loose on a hard corner!
Going on a couple of months with my rears. They are attached most of the time since i drive my machine on the street and only disco them when hitting the trail...which has been seldom lately! So far so good. No signs of breakage or fatigue at all. As mentioned above, I think they are at least as good as the originals as far as strength.
 
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Put 5 hours riding in yesterday with it hooked up. Very rough trail with big boulder crawling going through full flex motions. Absolutely no rattling or noise from the link. Worked perfect still looks normal and hitch pin stayed in place. No high speed corners yet but it definitely got flexed a lot.

I think it’s going to be just fine!
 
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...
The "tie rod ends" have a different internal thread (female) than the heim joint threads (male). I'm not sure what the big deal is, but I literally could not find males/females with the same threads. So I tried them anyway and surprisingly...this was a non issue. The heim joints threaded into the tie rod ends with slightly more effort than normal and cut it's own threads as it went...likely due to the softness of the tie rod end metal. The lock nut was really not even necessary at that point since it was fairly tight, but I put the lock nuts on anyway. I think they exist out there somewhere, and maybe I even just overlooked the link on amazon...but as mentioned, this works great and no issues. It might even be a little tighter than if the threads were the same!
...
I'm stealing your idea and excellent execution. Thanks
Of note, I ordered the exact parts you linked to Amazon. Using the ones I received, the ends and joints thread together effortlessly. Must be a different batch of one or the other.
 
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