‘20 X2 XT-R, Perfex 2” Lift
Wow! Thanks for the thorough reply! That’ll make this venture way easier on me 😁. I’ll look around for some matching thread pitch components. Although, you know what they say, cross threaded is better than loctite lol!Thanks! So far so good also. I've disconnected/reconnected them multiple times now, and it's fast and easy. Very pleased with the way they turned out. I use my machine around town (pavement) a lot and I leave them connected for that purpose, then disconnect them when going onto the trial. There is a very good chance that one day I might just remove the whole sway bar (rear) eventually, but for now, I like it's street manners with them connected!
So the biggest issue I found was making them SHORT enough. I didn't want anything longer than stock length and I ordered, received and sent back quite a few variations before I settled on the components I ended up using.
That said...it's not perfect. The "tie rod ends" have a different internal thread (female) than the heim joint threads (male). I'm not sure what the big deal is, but I literally could not find males/females with the same threads. So I tried them anyway and surprisingly...this was a non issue. The heim joints threaded into the tie rod ends with slightly more effort than normal and cut it's own threads as it went...likely due to the softness of the tie rod end metal. The lock nut was really not even necessary at that point since it was fairly tight, but I put the lock nuts on anyway. I think they exist out there somewhere, and maybe I even just overlooked the link on amazon...but as mentioned, this works great and no issues. It might even be a little tighter than if the threads were the same! Ok, now that I've made that disclaimer...here are the links/parts list, that I used:
2 of these. These are the HEIM JOINTS. Be sure to get the "SA10T/K (10mm) $8.99 each. Sydien SA10T/K Right-Hand Rod End Bearing M10 Male Thread Economy Self Lubricating for Machinery, Automation Equipment & CNC (2 Pcs): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
2 of these. These are the TIE ROD ENDS. Be sure to get the "M10*1.25" Right Hand Thread. Again, this is a slightly different thread pitch, but they screw together just fine, likely tighter than if the threads were the same. Curious to see if you can find the ones with the correct threads! $11.49 each. Sydien Carbon Steel SQ10-RS Rod End Ball Head M10x1.25 Right-Hand Female Thread Bearing Economy Self Lubricating with Stud for Cylinders & Linkages (2 Pcs): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
1 5-pack of these. These are the bolts. Cut the ends off, file them down a little, then drill a hole in them. The Heim Joints (above) slip onto these. Only 2 required, so you will have 3 extra (I ruined 1 experimenting) $6.69. Amazon.com: The Hillman Group 3467 Hex Cap Screw Metric M10-1.25 By 75mm, 5-Pack: Home Improvement
1 10-pack of these. $7.68. These are the nuts. You really only end up needing 4 of these, since you will also re-use your original 4 sway bar link nuts, so you will have a few extra, but it saved me a trip to Home Depot. Amazon.com: Prime-Line 9088205 Finished Hex Nuts, Class 8 Metric, M10-1.25, Zinc Plated Steel, 10-Pack: Home Improvement
Other than that, 2 "Everbilt Hitch Pin Clips, 3/4" From Home Depot for the pins and then these small copper washers for spacers on either side of the Heim Joints. (Washers didn't work...they interfered with the movement of the heim joints, I later cut a couple of spacers from a hollow aluminum tube but the copper washers worked fine...just had to stack them each time). Amazon.com: Crush Washer Karcy Copper Crush Washer 10mm Ring Gasket Copper and Alloy Copper Stone Pack of 50: Home Improvement
That's the stuff I used. A little over $50 or so. I figured that was worth the gamble and wouldn't have been out much had they not worked out. Again, so far, absolutely no issues. They are exactly the same dimensions/length/etc. of the original links when installed so no re-engineering was necessary for anything.
Hope this helps!