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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Edit 12/27/20...see post #8 below. Built some disconnects...


This was my original post a while back.
Well, went on a ride with my wife today and for the first time hit some rugged trails with lots of whoops, rocks, droppoffs and switchbacks. Overall, EVERYTHING was better than the Rhino, and the ride is WAY superior, but my Rhino did not have swaybars...and I can tell the X2 does. We ride it on the street and I really want to keep the swaybars for a lot of the riding we do, but today it would have been a lot nicer without them. Pretty sure I hung a tire in the air every now and then.

Has anyone come up with disconnects?...I had the tools with me that I needed to disconnect them the hard way, but decided to just live with it. Would have been nice to have disconnects. Can one just undo ONE side only and wire tie it out of the way?....seems like that would be a fast(er) manual disconnect than undoing both sides?....

Thanks in advance.

These machines are awesome by the way! Wife loved it a lot more than the Rhino. She especially loved seats and the grab bar. She said it was quieter, smoother, faster and "less clunky" than the Rhino! The power steering is nice also. As I said, the ride is superb...other than those sway bars would be nice to get rid of quickly when I wanted to. Sigh.
 
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I found a site a while back that makes nothing but quick disconnect hardware, but never followed up on it.
Some have also drilled it out and made their own using a bolt w/ cotter pin. Think there is a thread on here somewhere.

Glad the settings worked out for you.
You may want to get a few more rides in for it to become the new norm then try softening the Slow Speed Compression to full soft and see how that works with the sway bars.
The bars may be less noticeable for you that way and it will also get you use to a little body roll before you try the disconnect.
Something to think about.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I found a site a while back that makes nothing but quick disconnect hardware, but never followed up on it.
Some have also drilled it out and made their own using a bolt w/ cotter pin. Think there is a thread on here somewhere.

Glad the settings worked out for you.
You may want to get a few more rides in for it to become the new norm then try softening the Slow Speed Compression to full soft and see how that works with the sway bars.
The bars may be less noticeable for you that way and it will also get you use to a little body roll before you try the disconnect.
Something to think about.

Thanks again for the help with the settings! Right out of the gate I could tell that had I left them alone the ride would have been too stiff! I didn't realize how accustomed I was to not have sway bars with the Rhino...I could really tell they were there on the X2. I have a funny feeling that if I remove them I won't miss them at all but just a little hesitant as this machine will go faster than the Rhino did on the street and we do use this machine on the street. I'm going to look into the sway bar disconnect thing. Thanks again!
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
...so I just found out something. I was watching a youtube video on the Rmax2. Apparently the Rmax2 does not come with a rear sway bar...only a front one...the Rmax4 does come with a rear one.

I went ahead and found some stuff to make disconnects, but in the meantime I think I'm going to just disconnect it manually (the rear one) for now and see how I like it...as mentioned, my Rhino never had a sway bar (by the time I got it) and I never missed it or wanted one...
 
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I disconnected mine and put limit straps on so the shock wouldn't fully extend and bang on the shock mounts. Works great on the trail. Only time I notice it is on the road. But I usually stay under 45 because the 30's and beadlocks don't like pavement. They shake pretty bad. Even with 10oz and balance beads.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Went for a about an 8 mile ride today around our neighborhood (IE: paved roads). Grocery store, Del-Taco for lunch, gas station for a big gulp refill, etc. I had the rear sway bar disconnected the whole time. (Front sway bar still attached and connected) I still have my shock settings all on full soft. First impressions are that I didn't feel like I was every going to roll over or fall over and it didn't really feel too tippy either. Going into driveways off camber at speed I could definitely tell it was disconnected, and going around corners I could feel it also. I got it up to about 52 mph going down one road and it felt fine, but then again, I didn't do any sudden lane changes or anything. Some of the sway bar disco parts arrived today from Amazon. I am likely going to go ahead and put the disconnects on and leave them but I'm guessing that most of the time they will be disconnected. I like the idea of limit straps above (@Ghost23)...did you put them on the Fronts/Rears or both? Which ones did you get and what length? Any "installation kit" items necessary, or can they bolt directly to the shock mounts? Thanks in advance...

I'm kind of glad I got this when I did and and am working thru all the bugs during the off season so that when it's time to really hit the trail, I'll be ready to go and not have to worry about accessories, adjustments, add-on's, etc.

To be continued...
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Built a set of these today using stuff ordered from Amazon. It was easy and it wasn't expensive at all. Going to install them tomorrow on my rear sway bar and see how they hold up. The original Yamaha one is on the left. Still uses the original M10x1.25 nuts and washers to attach to the machine and is the same length and geometry. As mentioned above, there is a very good chance that it's going to be disconnected most of the time anyway, but if I know I'm between rides and am just going to be using on the street around my house or going on a long dirt road drive to GET to a trail (we do that a lot around memorial day) I'm hoping this solves the problem without having to get the wrenches out. I tried to get the spring loaded ones, but couldn't find any that were short enough. Had to go with the pin type disconnect.

90757
 

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Heim joints are a good choice.
Tractor supply has secured D-ring clips which would probably work better than the Hair Pin clip.
Don't forget about securing the sway bar up and out of the way. ;)
Looking good (y)
 

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I have had the sway bars disconnected since March. Limit straps on all 4. Bought longer bolts with nuts. Used delrin or some kind of really hard plastic spacers to space the eyelet of the PRP straps out away from the springs. There is about an 1/8" of space between the straps and the springs. Measure shock eye to shock eye at full droop and call PRP or any place that sells limit straps. I think on my X2 it was 20" front and 19 something, just shot of 20, rear. 18" straps should work.
 

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If you look into limit straps, call them and find out how much stretch that manufacturer has.
The 2 that I emailed told me to expect 1" stretch per foot of strap.
So a 18" strap will eventually stretch to 19-1/2", which Ghost23 pointed out, travel is right around 20"
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
How did they work out N.E.T.O. ?
...thanks for the reminder, I totally forgot to follow up on this! I've got about 40 miles on the machine with the sway bar disconnects installed. I already knew I like them disconnected when I'm off road (I disconnected them manually then went on a short test ride) so my big concern was how these were going to last when connected. During my 40 miles of testing over the last couple weeks or so I am 100% satisfied with their performance. All miles are basically around my neighborhood and I've focused on really pounding them going around corners thru gutters, etc. and into driveways at an angle trying to see if they are going to fail in any way. I've disconnected them, and then reconnected them multiple times and it is fast and easy. It takes longer to wire/bungee the sway bar up to the frame than it does to disconnect them. Reconnecting them is just as easy. Once once side is connected, the other side connects easily with slight rocking motion of the machine. I really like them connected around town (mine is street legal and I use it a lot for errands, trips to home-depot, etc. and grabbing lunch) but I really like them disconnected on the trails.
I was really kind of stressing about this. After driving it around town with it disconnected I knew I wanted to retain the sway bar, especially when letting the wife drive it. But after driving it off road with it disconnected, I knew that I wanted it OFF when off road....this is the best of both worlds for me. There may come a day when it disappears completely but for now I like the option to quickly have it connected or not. This is for the REAR only.
The FRONT...to be honest, not sure if it really does that much...I did a few crude articulation tests and that front is so thin that if anything it just slows everything down a little...so I'm leaving the front one on. Might save an axle since I've got a Perfex 2" lift on the FRONT only of my machine! I eventually want to get limit straps (as detailed above in this post) but haven't done that yet.

Here are some pics of them installed, and hanging when disconnected...hard to tell from the pics, but I have small spacers on each side of the heim joint that keeps everything in place and the heim joint from sliding back and forth on the bolt.
91176


91177


91178
 

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Good job! I took both front and rear off the RMAX4 the second week I had it. I don't drive on pavement though.
Huge improvement in the Rmax as well or less so with its already decent suspension?
 

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Disconnecting them the rear on the 4 seat probably shows a bigger difference than disconnecting the front on the 2 seat.
I disconnected my front on the 2 seat for a days ride doing some moderate crawling. It seems to flex a bit more but it’s not that drastic change like on the previous 2 models. I haven’t done an RTI test to see how much difference. For general riding I see no need to have it disconnected like I did on he Gen 1 but I’m going to try to do a quick disconnect like in this thread for the times when I want to do something pretty technical.
Body roll wasn’t significant like it was on the earlier models with stock springs. I doubt anyone will complain about it like some have on the Gen 1 and X models.
One thing that was quite noticeable was I commonly heard the front shock pop hard as it came to full extension after going over a big rock or something so the front sway bar does aid in that not happening.
 

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Built a set of these today using stuff ordered from Amazon. It was easy and it wasn't expensive at all. Going to install them tomorrow on my rear sway bar and see how they hold up. The original Yamaha one is on the left. Still uses the original M10x1.25 nuts and washers to attach to the machine and is the same length and geometry. As mentioned above, there is a very good chance that it's going to be disconnected most of the time anyway, but if I know I'm between rides and am just going to be using on the street around my house or going on a long dirt road drive to GET to a trail (we do that a lot around memorial day) I'm hoping this solves the problem without having to get the wrenches out. I tried to get the spring loaded ones, but couldn't find any that were short enough. Had to go with the pin type disconnect.

View attachment 90757
Those look awesome! I’ve been searching through Amazon trying to find the hardware to make a set myself but no luck. Any chance you could drop some links?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Those look awesome! I’ve been searching through Amazon trying to find the hardware to make a set myself but no luck. Any chance you could drop some links?
Thanks! So far so good also. I've disconnected/reconnected them multiple times now, and it's fast and easy. Very pleased with the way they turned out. I use my machine around town (pavement) a lot and I leave them connected for that purpose, then disconnect them when going onto the trial. There is a very good chance that one day I might just remove the whole sway bar (rear) eventually, but for now, I like it's street manners with them connected!
So the biggest issue I found was making them SHORT enough. I didn't want anything longer than stock length and I ordered, received and sent back quite a few variations before I settled on the components I ended up using.
That said...it's not perfect. The "tie rod ends" have a different internal thread (female) than the heim joint threads (male). I'm not sure what the big deal is, but I literally could not find males/females with the same threads. So I tried them anyway and surprisingly...this was a non issue. The heim joints threaded into the tie rod ends with slightly more effort than normal and cut it's own threads as it went...likely due to the softness of the tie rod end metal. The lock nut was really not even necessary at that point since it was fairly tight, but I put the lock nuts on anyway. I think they exist out there somewhere, and maybe I even just overlooked the link on amazon...but as mentioned, this works great and no issues. It might even be a little tighter than if the threads were the same! Ok, now that I've made that disclaimer...here are the links/parts list, that I used:

2 of these. These are the HEIM JOINTS. Be sure to get the "SA10T/K (10mm) $8.99 each. Sydien SA10T/K Right-Hand Rod End Bearing M10 Male Thread Economy Self Lubricating for Machinery, Automation Equipment & CNC (2 Pcs): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

2 of these. These are the TIE ROD ENDS. Be sure to get the "M10*1.25" Right Hand Thread. Again, this is a slightly different thread pitch, but they screw together just fine, likely tighter than if the threads were the same. Curious to see if you can find the ones with the correct threads! $11.49 each. Sydien Carbon Steel SQ10-RS Rod End Ball Head M10x1.25 Right-Hand Female Thread Bearing Economy Self Lubricating with Stud for Cylinders & Linkages (2 Pcs): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

1 5-pack of these. These are the bolts. Cut the ends off, file them down a little, then drill a hole in them. The Heim Joints (above) slip onto these. Only 2 required, so you will have 3 extra (I ruined 1 experimenting) $6.69. Amazon.com: The Hillman Group 3467 Hex Cap Screw Metric M10-1.25 By 75mm, 5-Pack: Home Improvement

1 10-pack of these. $7.68. These are the nuts. You really only end up needing 4 of these, since you will also re-use your original 4 sway bar link nuts, so you will have a few extra, but it saved me a trip to Home Depot. Amazon.com: Prime-Line 9088205 Finished Hex Nuts, Class 8 Metric, M10-1.25, Zinc Plated Steel, 10-Pack: Home Improvement

Other than that, 2 "Everbilt Hitch Pin Clips, 3/4" From Home Depot for the pins and then these small copper washers for spacers on either side of the Heim Joints. (Washers didn't work...they interfered with the movement of the heim joints, I later cut a couple of spacers from a hollow aluminum tube but the copper washers worked fine...just had to stack them each time). Amazon.com: Crush Washer Karcy Copper Crush Washer 10mm Ring Gasket Copper and Alloy Copper Stone Pack of 50: Home Improvement

That's the stuff I used. A little over $50 or so. I figured that was worth the gamble and wouldn't have been out much had they not worked out. Again, so far, absolutely no issues. They are exactly the same dimensions/length/etc. of the original links when installed so no re-engineering was necessary for anything.

Hope this helps!

Randy
 
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