Revisit as of 1/2023.. Received my RMAX4 flip windshield a few days ago. First, it did not come with written instructions and the online instructions/video are for a RMAX2. Close enough but obviously the seals are different and no guidance for the mirror bracket if that what it is. I have been around race cars, etc for a long time and although my elevator may not go to the top, my tool box is pretty full.
Re installation, after 8 full hours and a 2nd set of hands my windshield is still not fitting. Those two plastic bumps in the in the roof hitting the upper windshield that were mentioned in another thread are still a big issue. The partial solution is to leave everything loose, then force the windshield top seal to the middle of the crossbar before tightning the strap clamps. I used windex to help the seal slide. This lowers the top section enough that those two bumps dont interfere as much. THEN you have to deal with the two outside "bumps" where the cutouts are that are part of the formed roof. I was grinding/scaloping the windshield edge to try to gain some clearance here before I quit for the nite. The next contact point is the top edge seal where two other roof molded ribs hit....I will likely thin out the seal with a blade/*****. I am not in favor of cutting/trimming the roof as a few others might have. All of the above is just get the roof back in its original position without sitting on the roof, heavy weights, etc and putting it under permanent stress.
I did use a mallet to seat the bulb seals. You know you're done when the hammer makes a "tang" instead of a "thud". I thought the mirror bracket replaced the original so I tried to remove it and guess what....the two bolts are torx security types...with the pin in the center so you can't get a regular torx to seat. This is not in anyones toolbox so the socket should be included. I ended up removing the top crossbar so I could work on it flat...another hour wasted drilling out the torx pins and three broken drill bits later. Also you can't use the SATV bracket for the mirror....the hole is drilled off center and the mirror's threaded post will hit the plexi first and the nut CAN'T center because it also hits the plexi. Another point, you MUST remove the OEM mirror bracket otherwise you can't lower the upper plexi referenced above. I will space the OEM mirror down if I get to that point.
Everything is still loose and the bottom sections appear close to nesting at the flat seal. In my opinion the entire top seal is not necessary because you can likely push a round 1" seal across the entire front from the out side to guarantee no wind or leakage. I will say the product quality is very good, lots of custom brackets, etc and the ultimate fit could be to a high tolerance if you don't go madman destructo first.
Final thoughts...I have been in a few installation wars and this one ranks right at the top. I just noticed that SATV site promotes it for a RMAX4 then in fine print says it will not work with the OEM roof on their website..CYA??? You do have to partially remove the blue plexi covering in any attempt thereby nullifying a return if you encounter what I and most everyone has. In the other major installation thread, SATV offered a 20% refund, or to replace damaged parts or full refund providing you destroy it. I'd like to know if that still is available because in this case it is buyer beware to the extreme. SATV??
Re installation, after 8 full hours and a 2nd set of hands my windshield is still not fitting. Those two plastic bumps in the in the roof hitting the upper windshield that were mentioned in another thread are still a big issue. The partial solution is to leave everything loose, then force the windshield top seal to the middle of the crossbar before tightning the strap clamps. I used windex to help the seal slide. This lowers the top section enough that those two bumps dont interfere as much. THEN you have to deal with the two outside "bumps" where the cutouts are that are part of the formed roof. I was grinding/scaloping the windshield edge to try to gain some clearance here before I quit for the nite. The next contact point is the top edge seal where two other roof molded ribs hit....I will likely thin out the seal with a blade/*****. I am not in favor of cutting/trimming the roof as a few others might have. All of the above is just get the roof back in its original position without sitting on the roof, heavy weights, etc and putting it under permanent stress.
I did use a mallet to seat the bulb seals. You know you're done when the hammer makes a "tang" instead of a "thud". I thought the mirror bracket replaced the original so I tried to remove it and guess what....the two bolts are torx security types...with the pin in the center so you can't get a regular torx to seat. This is not in anyones toolbox so the socket should be included. I ended up removing the top crossbar so I could work on it flat...another hour wasted drilling out the torx pins and three broken drill bits later. Also you can't use the SATV bracket for the mirror....the hole is drilled off center and the mirror's threaded post will hit the plexi first and the nut CAN'T center because it also hits the plexi. Another point, you MUST remove the OEM mirror bracket otherwise you can't lower the upper plexi referenced above. I will space the OEM mirror down if I get to that point.
Everything is still loose and the bottom sections appear close to nesting at the flat seal. In my opinion the entire top seal is not necessary because you can likely push a round 1" seal across the entire front from the out side to guarantee no wind or leakage. I will say the product quality is very good, lots of custom brackets, etc and the ultimate fit could be to a high tolerance if you don't go madman destructo first.
Final thoughts...I have been in a few installation wars and this one ranks right at the top. I just noticed that SATV site promotes it for a RMAX4 then in fine print says it will not work with the OEM roof on their website..CYA??? You do have to partially remove the blue plexi covering in any attempt thereby nullifying a return if you encounter what I and most everyone has. In the other major installation thread, SATV offered a 20% refund, or to replace damaged parts or full refund providing you destroy it. I'd like to know if that still is available because in this case it is buyer beware to the extreme. SATV??
