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So I just checked my machine and the hose clamps just towards the rear of this drain look like they are leaking oil, how concerned should I be?
 

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So I just checked my machine and the hose clamps just towards the rear of this drain look like they are leaking oil, how concerned should I be?
1st it shows you they arent even torque down, 2nd it was overfilled.
 

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2021 RMAX4 LE
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Discussion Starter #43
So I just checked my machine and the hose clamps just towards the rear of this drain look like they are leaking oil, how concerned should I be?
They could be loose. Slightly loose isn't catastrophic, but severely loose means you could be ingesting dirty air. Leaking oil means your system is\was overfilled and you need to drain by pulling the inspection drain cover off.
 

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This just happened to mine last weekend because the clear drain plug was missing. :zx11pissed:
Had to pull the plugs to get the water out, but fired right up afterwards.
Well thankfully the dealer just warned me that this may be a potential issue and I should look at putting a proper hose clamp on mine. :neglected:
 

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I did the air filter system check and it passed. This is the clamp that came on my 2020 R-Spec, should I still add a hose clamp for assurance.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
I didn't the air filter system check and it passed. This is the clamp that came on my 2020 R-Spec, should I still add a hose clamp for assurance.
That's the upgraded clamp. I think it's sufficient but if you want to replace it with a hose\worm clamp you can.
 

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What I wish I'd done when my machine was new: Take out the (6) bolts holding your exhaust tip on. Then put anti-seize on them, and reinstall them. You can do one at a time. Then later (hopefully!) when you have to service the spark arrestor the bolts will come back out.
 

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What I wish I'd done when my machine was new: Take out the (6) bolts holding your exhaust tip on. Then put anti-seize on them, and reinstall them. You can do one at a time. Then later (hopefully!) when you have to service the spark arrestor the bolts will come back out.
Looking at mine now I'm lucky if I can even see them under the mud baked onto them. I'll be lucky if I can get one out without breaking.
 

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What I wish I'd done when my machine was new: Take out the (6) bolts holding your exhaust tip on. Then put anti-seize on them, and reinstall them. You can do one at a time. Then later (hopefully!) when you have to service the spark arrestor the bolts will come back out.
Looking at mine now I'm lucky if I can even see them under the mud baked onto them. I'll be lucky if I can get one out without breaking.
Sounds like it’ll be time to get out the blue wrench out for a little assistance. Or B try some ATF/Acetone mixed together it’s amazing what that combo will break loose.
 

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Looking at mine now I'm lucky if I can even see them under the mud baked onto them. I'll be lucky if I can get one out without breaking.
I did manage to get all mine out. They were all easy enough to break loose but it seemed like the last 2/3 of the bolt threads were the most corroded.
I just slowly worked them back and forth with lost of penetrating fluid and none broke.
I then put them all through a 6 mm die to clean up the threads and coated them with copper never seize.
Should be good for awhile now.
 

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There is another one of these spring retainer clips on the bottom of the airbox housing. I had my airbox out today and noticed this and guess what............. I just touched it and it fell right off. :yikes:

Of course this is not like the one on the bottom of the machine where it will get dislodged from brush and whatnot and this one is higher up but this little spring just doesn't do its job at all. I replaced with a nice hose clamp.

Dave
 

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Thanks InfidelMT for doing this video, showing the test:


I've heard of only a handful of new Yamaha SxS that didn't have the engine air intake ducting properly installed or the clear drain check hose installed. The results were that one engine ingested water and hydro-locked and the other had to be rebuilt due to dirty air.

While these instances are rare, you can do a very simple test to see if your engine air tract is sealed properly. Pop the hood off so you have access to your air filter cover and start your engine up. Next place your hand over your air intake or cover it with something flat (don't worry, you have 2 air filters to prevent them from getting ingested into your engine) and your engine should die pretty quickly. If it keeps running and you hear suction from somewhere then it's time to start a visual inspection of the entire air tract system. This is a simple 5 minute test and could save you the hassle of trying to fight a warranty claim later down the road where you didn't notice the problem in time and the dealer tries to deny it.

Here is a picture of the clear drain check hose located underneath and forward center:



Replace that flimsy tension clamp with a proper hose/worm clamp.

View attachment 82188

Location of drain via parts diagram. You'll looking at #29, 30 and 31

View attachment 82198

A member of my FB group has a 2020 X2 XTR and it looks like Yamaha is now putting a beefier clamp on the air intake check/drain. This should be a TSB and all prior vehicles updated, easily done by the owner.

So I was doing my 160 hour service today and found mine was missing completely!!
Harry
 

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It’s a good thing you checked Harry.
I love this forum for discovering information like this.
Amen to that! If not for this community, I never would have checked!
Harry
 

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Skid pan hole, between the seat area underneath.
 

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When I performed this test I first made sure all the hose clamps on the intake were tight which required me to remove the center console which was a pain but worth knowing all the clamps were properly tight. The clamps right under the air box are accessible from the passenger wheel well without removing anything. Snugged them all up.

Then I started it and applied the duct tape. Engine still ran and I had a sucking sound around the air box cover. Turns out I had some plastic flashing poking up on the air box/cover interface. I trimmed/sanded the flashing down and applied a little silicone grease to the gasket in the lid. Bingo! Engine immediately cut out with the duct tape over the intake.

Probably not a big deal that the intake cover leaks a little as the air still has to go through both filters to make it to the engine, however it was causing a false positive on my leak test.

Posting this in case anyone else runs into this issue.
 
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