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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As we all know the KYB shocks ( I assume the Fox are similar as well) have 3 adjustment points but to be honest I am not real sure what any of them exactly do. So if someone would like to fill me in I would appreciate it and I know there are several others who have the same question.

What is the factory setting for each?
What exactly does each adjustment point (1,2,3 below) do?

For example; I like to rock crawl and will take all of the articulation and drop-out I can get, what can I do to get the most out of these shocks?


Feel free to add more questions or whatever. I figure this would at least get the conversation started.

Here is a pic of a KYB shock (not necessarily on a Wolverine but I know it is very similar) labeled as 1,2,3 maybe this will help keep all of this straight.

Shocks.jpg
 

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IMG_20151205_095410.jpg IMG_20151205_095344.jpg the shock you are showing is not the same as the ones on the wolverine,the three adjustments on the wolverine are spring tension,compression (top screw)and rebound(bottom screw )turning screws clockwise stiffens the compession and rebound and turning anticlockwise softens these settings.your operating manual explains this
 

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First the shock settings are high speed compression low speed compression and rebound ... not spring tension that's just preload on the spring ... the manual describes everything you need to know to start adjusting .. then youtube has a few videos that give you a good idea on how to dial it in

Low speed compression- shock moving slowly, body roll, slow speed bumps and articulation
High speed compression - sharp bumps and jarring
Rebound - how fast the shock returns to nutral state
Preload- amount of weight needed to start spring movement (more preload stiffer ride in initial spring travel. So say stock preload is at 100 lbs the spring will not move for the first 100 lbs of force turn it up and the spring has say 150 lbs of resistance then 200lb equalling stiffer ride (meant for balancing load not ride hight )
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Guess I could have looked at the operators manual first but didn't... I completely understand the preload portion of all of this just trying to figure out which screw/nut/knob does what. Which is the low compression, high compression, and rebound?

They look pretty similar to me... Is 1,2,3 not all adjustable? Maybe I should wait unil I get home to double check but I thought it was and I completely forgot about the lower adjustment screw.

1-21-2016 9-29-36 AM.jpg Shocks.jpg
 

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1 and 2 are your high speed compression (can't remember which is which). 3 is not an adjustment. The screw at the bottom is rebound.
 
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1 is low speed compression - rock crawling, articulation, etc. R turns will stiffen it, L turns the opposite
2 is high speed compression - fast trail riding, jumps, etc. R turns will cause less bottoming on bit hits, L turns will soften it and allow it to travel UP faster...can cause easier bottoming.
3 is not an adjustment, leave it be.
Rebound is at the bottom of the shock, it adjusts the speed at which the shock travels back to its natural state. Too much will cause bucking, to little will cause bottoming because the shock never has a chance to fully re-extend.
 

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I took mine out today for the first time and I thought it had too much body roll. So if I turn #2 R, clockwise, it will help?
 

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I believe High Speed and preload should help with that, someone correct me if Im wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
No spanner wrench "required"... I jack up the machine to relieve the pressure and use a hammer and slotted/straight screw driver to adjust the preload. I'm sure there are better ways but that's how I do it and it works great.
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Glad it worked for ya! You should be fine, I'd just snug it up and forget about it. I've adjusted mine a few times now and have never had an issue with it coming loose.
 

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Is the Wolverine's Owner's Manual (LIT-11626-29-03) wrong on the Spring Preload measurement for both the front and rear shocks or am I measuring something wrong?

The numbers my manual specifies as Minimum , Standard, & Maximum spring lengths are not possible per how the manual shows to measure the Spring Preload length. Page 4-24 of the manual shows measuring just the actual length of the spring and calls this 1 with 1 = to Distance A. Front Min. = 12.34", Std. = 12.03", Max. = 11.75".

Rear Spring Preload on page 4-29 shows measuring the same way. Rear Min. = 15.20", Std. = 14.88", Max. = 14.65". The pictures of my Spring Preload (Front and Rear) below show what my spring lengths are. These are how it came stock from the factory and have not been adjusted.

The numbers stated in the manual are not obtainable, the length is to long. See my pictures below.

The only other possibility is that the numbers are correct and the lower to point to measure from is incorrectly marked in the diagram in the manual.

I'm wanting to adjust the Spring Preload but before I do, I want to know what the correct Min., Std., & Max. Spring Preload lengths are for both the front and rear springs. Does anyone have the correct numbers? Thanks

Edit: After Deeyoh said the measurements must be made with the machine jacked up and no load on the shocks (fully extended) I remeasured and the factory settings were spot on per the manual, on the Standard measurement of 12" on the front and 14 7/8" on the rear.

Owner's Manual, Front Shock Spring Preload, page 4-24
Manual Front Shock Specs.JPG

Front Shock Spring
Right Front Shock Spring Length.JPG

Rear Shock Spring
Right Rear Shock Spring Length.JPG
 

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Many thanks, Deeyoh.

It would have been nice if Yamaha had stated in the Owner's Manual to measure the Spring Preload with no weight on the shocks (jacked up).
 

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I do a lot of trail riding and mud park riding. when i have weight in my bed my back tires bottom out and rub the bolt on the inside of the wheel well. This only happens when i hit bumps or am going over anything really and its ruining my tires. what would i adjust to fix this problem?
 

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I do a lot of trail riding and mud park riding. when i have weight in my bed my back tires bottom out and rub the bolt on the inside of the wheel well. This only happens when i hit bumps or am going over anything really and its ruining my tires. what would i adjust to fix this problem?
Increase preload.
 

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what are the recommended adjustments needed from stock on rspec for someone who only rock crawls and trail rides. no jumping, mudding, or major hill climbing... I thought it did great on my first trip but I always wondered about the adjustments available and how they have them set from factory.

benderdundat
 

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For just rock crawling and slow trail rides, just put everything to the soft settings. I wouldn't touch the preload though since you want the clearance. Maybe even unhook or remove the sway bar. Someone said it gives another 4 inchs of articulation in the back. That'll even soften up the ride more just be careful taking fast turns.
 

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always wondered if you took the sway bar out, if you would loose side hill stability??
 
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