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I just tried to set my preload to totally soft on my R-spec Wolverine. In using the measurements shown in the manual, I ran out of threads at the top, to get it to specs. has anyone run into this problem?

ATVsam
 

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I just tried to set my preload to totally soft on my R-spec Wolverine. In using the measurements shown in the manual, I ran out of threads at the top, to get it to specs. has anyone run into this problem?

ATVsam
Are you adjusting it with it jacked up all the way? My 2017 was close, but had enough threads to adjust to proper length. Tires should be off the ground at full droop when adjusting springs.
 
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Discussion Starter #3
Preload

Are you adjusting it with it jacked up all the way? My 2017 was close, but had enough threads to adjust to proper length. Tires should be off the ground at full droop when adjusting springs.
Jimbo, I was wondering about that myself. At the time I was doing so many things to the Wolverine; 2" lift, front & rear lights, various switches etc. I really don't remember. My mother in law called it Old timers disease. I might as well do it again to be sure. Thanks for the reply.
Sam
 

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If I am not mistaken, notice that this is spring length so do not include the collar in the dimension. I found it easier to turn the spring so I could hook my tape end on the square ground face of the last coil at the seat area.
 

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If I am not mistaken, notice that this is spring length so do not include the collar in the dimension. I found it easier to turn the spring so I could hook my tape end on the square ground face of the last coil at the seat area.
YES YES, springs only in the measurement, not the locknuts.
 

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My nephew in the atv racing shock business tells me you can set the preloads down as low as (or high- however you want to say it) you want just make sure you keep full threads showing at bottom of bottom nut. I pretty much did that before I changed springs and added some height.
 

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Setting it to the softer setting would have the arms out flat with little travel left for compression of the shock bottoming out. Already its quite low IMO. I have set both front and more recently the rear to less than 1/4" of the Max compression. I have good travel for the dips I encounter and with slightly softer tires (just changed tires so PSI may have to be lowered). But after initial setting the height gained appears to return close to the original height. When you jack up either front or back you can clearly see how much the spring have already compressed with the vehicle load on them. It huge and the number of inches left before the shock shaft is fully compressed is small. Whether the spring bottoms out fully compressed first or the shock in my case is unknown. I have hit a few dips hard and felt the front bottom out. A firmer and/or variable rate spring should have been used and looking back at a lot of old threads. Knowone has every mentioned this in a thread I found relating to springs.

The dealer says the spring will push the wheel down into the hole or depression when it encounters it this way rather than the whole vehicle dropping. I may to a degreed but running near bottomed out or rather fully compressed springs is a poor setup as it leaves very little travel left for further compression. Some have bent mounts and may be contributing factor if running soft setup of the springs.
 
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