Yamaha Wolverine Forum banner
1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has any one made up there own secondary clutch spring compressor bell to remove the nut from the secondary clutch and if so would they have the inside and outside measurements of the ring that sits on the washer just below the nut or have a place where you can purchase just the bell
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,634 Posts
Has any one made up there own secondary clutch spring compressor bell to remove the nut from the secondary clutch and if so would they have the inside and outside measurements of the ring that sits on the washer just below the nut or have a place where you can purchase just the bell
I cut the bottom off my old one for the Gen 1, widened the wings out and forged a new, bigger bottom ring on the anvil. Here’s a pic of the new modified version with measurement. 2 1/2” inside probably works but don’t be smaller. Mine doesn’t clear the nut by much. It’s about 2 9/16”. 2 5/8 would work but there isn’t a lot of room outside the nut to sit on the spring retaining washer. This is 1/2” stock so add 1” for the outside dimension. This of course is unimportant really. You could use narrower stock or round stock. I think the outside of mine is slightly wider than the retaining washer is.


Wood Gas Audio equipment Personal protective equipment Circle
Door Wood Automotive tire Font Gas
Automotive tire Wood Crankset Bumper Font
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,908 Posts
I made mine out of all-thread and bar stock with the bell from a worn-out wire cup brush with a window cut in side of it. Of course you can but a new cup brush in the size needed and sacrifice it to the CVT god lol.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
485 Posts
Stock wheels will do it, there is a YouTube video out there somewhere that I saw a few years ago where you take one of your stock wheels and the center hole centered over the spring then put your full body weight on the tires, this compresses the spring so can loosen the nut with a impact wrench. Put it back on the same way. I did this when I changed my secondary spring on my Kodiak 700. Works well, would have been a little easier if I was fatter 🤪
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,634 Posts
Stock wheels will do it, there is a YouTube video out there somewhere that I saw a few years ago where you take one of your stock wheels and the center hole centered over the spring then put your full body weight on the tires, this compresses the spring so can loosen the nut with a impact wrench. Put it back on the same way. I did this when I changed my secondary spring on my Kodiak 700. Works well, would have been a little easier if I was fatter 🤪
Not on the x model, the spring is to stiff!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
917 Posts
Nothing says the cup has to be round. I made mine for the Gen. 1 Wolverine out of 2 pieces of angle welded together as required, to get the correct inside measurement, and cut the 2 legs of the angle the same length. I made the width of the welded angles where I could get an adjustable wrench / Crescent Wrench around the angle's width so I could loosen the nut easier with a wrench and also makes it easier to torque to spec.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Budro2

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I cut the bottom off my old one for the Gen 1, widened the wings out and forged a new, bigger bottom ring on the anvil. Here’s a pic of the new modified version with measurement. 2 1/2” inside probably works but don’t be smaller. Mine doesn’t clear the nut by much. It’s about 2 9/16”. 2 5/8 would work but there isn’t a lot of room outside the nut to sit on the spring retaining washer. This is 1/2” stock so add 1” for the outside dimension. This of course is unimportant really. You could use narrower stock or round stock. I think the outside of mine is slightly wider than the retaining washer is.


View attachment 99788 View attachment 99789 View attachment 99790
Thankyou Budro2 for your responce I will go and see what i can find for material
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top