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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey y’all, I have a host of installs to do. I have the Trail Armor full skid plate, a-arm guards, and bash plate in the garage and intend to install it this weekend. I have in order, the glass OEM windshield and lift rear window, the side mirrors that work with the glass windshield, the OEM cargo box, a Tusk hitch mount rear spare tire carrier, and the xtr front wheel and tire for a spare. The carrier is supposed to be compatible with the rear window lifting. Most of our rising will be in southwest Colorado each summer. We have an RV site in Creede, and sold our two door ‘18 Ranger XP1000 a few weeks ago. We needed 4 seats and a friend talked me into looking at the Yamaha. Having owned two Yamaha jet boats, I felt very at home getting this. It has only 4 miles on it now! In any regard, I’m looking forward first hand tips and tricks that you have discovered or run across in your install of these items. Please feel free to add any tips to this thread…and thanks!
 

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2021 RMAX4 1000 LE
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You are going to love it. I have the accessories you mention, and all good choices 👍.
You shouldn't have any issues installing them. Those are all fairly simple ones to do. Enjoy your new YAMAHA !
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I got the Trail Armor skids, bash, and arm guards installed today. The bash plate metal mounting plate with the 6 holes drilled in it, didn’t line up with the RMAX4s threaded holes. 5 worked, 1 was out a half hole. Wallowing that side out after drilling oversize 3 steps, was a PIA. It’s cut j hi okra didn’t align with the two steel 40mm bolts they included and after installing the bash plate, I had to remove it and start over with it. I had an issue with one hole in plate C also. I modified them all to work, as there is just no such thing as plug and play on aftermarket, although it was close. They apparently modified the access holes and they all align now. It looks good, I hope the loas of clearance isn’t an issue, it should still have as much as my 2.5” lift with SuperATV skids on my previous Ranger. Thanks for the help and thread links!
 

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Let Trail Armor know about the holes no lining up. As far as clearnce goes, you can adjust the shocks preload to get some of it back. In the manual it gives you the measurements you can use for both max and min for both front and rear (although you could probably go over Yamaha's max settings). Mine were somewhere in the middle but I adjusted to max and got my clearence back. Actually I went over max but decided it was too much for me so went back the the manuals recommendations.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Is this in the owners manual or the service manual? I don’t have a service manual…yet. I read the owners manual cover to cover. I have a slight recollection of preload adjustment, but I thought I saw that on this forum, not in the manual. lol but I don’t remember like I used to! Are you shortening the spring to increase lift?
 

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Owners manual. Massive has it in one of his threads too. Your adjusting the collar down. It does but put more pressure on the springs but I didn't notice much if any change in the ride quality. If your adjusting the suspension, I recommend trying it with the sway bars disconnected and 9-10 psi in the tires. Some think it feels tipsy but I don't. However, I also very rarely drive on pavement. The added suspension articulation is what I need for my trail riding.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
It’s confusing to me about the springs. It seems to me the softest ride would have the most height. But I guess that adjusting the spring down tighter, probably makes the ride both stiffer and gives the most height on the shock…otherwise I don’t get it.
 

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2021 Red-neck Edition RMAX2 XT-R
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It’s confusing to me about the springs. It seems to me the softest ride would have the most height. But I guess that adjusting the spring down tighter, probably makes the ride both stiffer and gives the most height on the shock…otherwise I don’t get it.
It seems those adjusting their springs because of the extra weight of the skid plate are only doing so to regain ground clearance, thus making the ride a little stiffer by compressing the spring. I hear that Bandit helper springs "Help" regain some of that softness.
 

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It’s confusing to me about the springs. It seems to me the softest ride would have the most height. But I guess that adjusting the spring down tighter, probably makes the ride both stiffer and gives the most height on the shock…otherwise I don’t get it.
Not necessarily. Not enough pressure will also make the ride harsh. Then your putting all the weight on the shock and not letting the spring do the work its designed to do and can end up with a clunk. The spring adjustment is easy enough to try that. I recommend experimenting and if you don't like it, go back to where you started. In my experience it's better to adjust the spring height for the needed ground clearance vs adding a lift kit for ride quality. In other words lift kits have made my rides harsher than adjusting the springs and letting the suspension do its work.
 

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Adjusting spring preload only changes ride height, it does not effect the spring tension. The spring never changes , it remains the same spring. It also does not compress further. The shock absorber simply moves in or out depending on if you add ride height or subtract it. You do not want to remove all of your sag by cranking preload to max and overextend your shock absorber. That will give the "feeling" of a stiffer ride , but only becouse of the lack of sag.. That is another subject.

Ride height will effect ground clearance and center of Gravity (body roll) characteristics. It will not make spring "stiffer" or "softer". That is a common misconception.

However, Adjusting the settings on the valve rate for the shock absorber WILL effect ride stiffness , hence the FOX shocks with 3 valve settings. This controls the shock absorber rate of travel in compression and rebound. The shock absorber doesn't "carry" any weight. It simply controls the speed of which the spring compresses and decompresses.

Or

You will need to physically change out coil spring for a different one to achieve a different ride "stiffness". A dual rate spring is a spring with multiple zones of stiffness, which once the "soft zone" is compressed , then the next "harder zone" will begin to compress and so forth. This will give a softer ride , but also keep from bottoming out on a large drop.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I’ve read the entire thread about the Bandit Tender Springs. Long thread. It appears that most of that thread was based on the RMAX2, not the RMAX4. So now I’m looking to see who is putting those springs on the 4, to get back clearance lost with added weight or skids that took the clearance. I do. It want to sacrifice ride quality. And Yamaha and Fox are way smarter than me. I don’t know that I could get the ride back to what they provided me out of the box. But I’m listening👂
 

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Adding weight to the machine will only make it ride smoother , not stiffer , regardless of the shock preload. (think about a bunch of weight in back of a HD truck).
Adding preload only changes ride height (ground clearance) and CG (body roll). The spring will still be the exact same spring rate. You are simply moving the shock absorber shaft in or out. This moves the machine up or down. I know it gets very confusing.. lol
Now it may feel stiffer , if by adding weight you actually bottom out suspension. That is why you may add some preload to gain back the clearance , and put sag back to where it was. you want sag so your wheels keep constant contact with the ground when encountering a dip or hole. This is why guys who do huge lifts , and crank preload to max end up with a terrible ride. They removed all sag.

If you want to get your machine back to normal ride height , add preload. Just know that changing out your springs with new springs with a different rate to deal with your new weight would be the only other way. Adding a small pc of spring (tender spring) would be a type of solution as well.

In short , shock preload is designed to do exactly what you want to do , without buying new springs. Your machine will ride a bit softer with the added weight. One way to get it to ride a bit stiffer , would be to to use the 3-way shock valving that FOX provided. Adding a tender spring would add spring , so if preload was removed again it would be at normal ride height , and provide another spring rate section.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I appreciate the explanations @POHLHAMMER I have not made any suspension changes as of yet. Adding ground clearance is a double edged sword. I see the YouTube vids of the RMAX4 and wonder about traction and softness. Raising the CG would only exaggerate that. I don’t see it as an issue until your more heavily loaded. We won’t have that condition often. The traction issue I see in vids when they are trying to climb a ledge. Seems the stock tires lose traction easier than the stock tires on my ‘18 Ranger XP1000 (3 seat). I know reducing air pressure will help, but the stated minimum worries me a little. So I’m considering my options. It already has a big turn radius so I don’t want to increase that either. Anyway thanks for the insight.

Of all the accessories I have on order, only the skids/guards/bash have come in and I installed them. I also installed the door pockets. I have received the J channel I ordered to stop the rain drop off the sides of the roof. It have not installed it yet. I installed the harbor freight black shackles, a SuperATV 6000# synthetic winch cable, and a winch cable stop block. Still waiting on front/rear OEM glass, OEM cargo box, spare carrier spare tire and wheel. I received a scissor jack but have not installed it. I bought some thin anti fatigue mat to cut to fit between and behind the seats for Jackson, our boxer. He loves the UTV rides. But I worried he could tear up the seats. In our three seater, he was jammed in and wore us out. With all the room now, I need to make sure he has good footing and protect the area from those nails! No idea when my parts will come in. Most on back order.
 

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What kind of terrain are you driving? I run 10 psi in my stock tires and so far haven't had an issue but I don't drive on pavement much or over 55 much. You can run some slime or similar product in your tires that will help hold the bead if your worried about that. Some say the tire sealant product also help balance the wheels and tires. I don't know. I run slime because that is what is local for me but there have been reviews on this forum of stuff that looks like it would work much better.

On the ground clearance, weight, and CG subject. When you add more weight than your suspension is set up for, it going to cause you to lose ground clearance making your CG lower a little. I don't think it is proportional but could be wrong. While your waiting on parts its worth at least trying to adjust your springs to see if you get the ride your looking for. Its very easy and will only take you little bit if time. You don't even have to remove the tires.

I had 900XP 3 seat ranger and ran about 10 psi in those tires and there is no way it would climb what the RMAX4 does. Youtube is nice but you know the faults of social media.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
@ therebel19 , thanks for the reply. We have a summer RV spot in Creede, CO. So the terrain is rocky, fording the occasional creek or stream, very limited mud, and higher elevations of steepness. My Ranger would handle almost anything except the engine brake was literally dangerous going downhill where you wanted to go slow. It would take both brake and throttle to prevent the engine brake from locking your wheels and losing control. So 4 wheel engine braking will have to be practiced. We use the machine almost exclusively up there. I will get some but very limited use in north Texas/southern Oklahoma, and maybe a little sw Arkansas. I’m trying to resist driving it around here, because that would be paved and chew the tires up. I also read that beadlock wheels must be driven, and periods of non us will cause them to leak. Anyway, I’m just wanting the best setup to be dependable for us in the summers. Because out there, you can be out of cell coverage, and farther up and out than you could hike out of in a day. Of the less than 1000 miles I have driven up there on mostly Polaris machines, Ive had one flat that destroyed the sidewall. So I will carry a spare.

I will definitely fool around with the preload and see if I can accept the ride after adjusting back to OE clearance. If not, I may add the other springs.
 
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