[Chevymanrc]

Have a few questions guys. I got the 22gr weights, shims and tink seal from the guy selling on here. I installed the weights for now just to see how much quieter it would be. So far I like it. There are a few shims in the package in both .5 and 1.0 mm I think. Is there a specific combination to install or is it machine specific? I'm assuming the shims help with gaining back a little low end, but honestly coming from an X4 and the fact I mostly just trail ride I don't really feel I lost that much. Also when I do get it like I want, I'm going to stay with grease but most likely use the tink seal. It's there any videos or pictures showing how much to use in the clutch. Here are pictures of my factory one at 370 miles. Looked pretty clean but hovel figured grease would be more spread out across the whole area inside.

 

[Budro2]

Here’s a thread on the matter. It’s an x model but same thing.

Need alternative to Ultramatic Grease

Skelley, I'm too lazy to go back through and like all your posts, so here is one big like for all of them and the ones to come.

www.wolverineforums.com

Opinions vary on greasing but they all work.
Personally I’ll always err on the side of a little much than not to enough.
I Used a full 4oz tub of Tinkseal. I’m almost due for sheave service. Zero issues.
I forget exactly but I think 3.4 3.5oz is enough.
Bear in mind the grease will immediately all be slung to the outside by centrifugal force and stay there just as you see it in your pics.
Its purpose is not lubrication of the rollers but lubrication of the sliders on the towers and primarily a seal around the outer edge of the cam plate to keep dust from getting inside.

 

[Chevymanrc]

Here’s a thread on the matter. It’s an x model but same thing.

Need alternative to Ultramatic Grease

Skelley, I'm too lazy to go back through and like all your posts, so here is one big like for all of them and the ones to come.

www.wolverineforums.com

Opinions vary on greasing but they all work.
Personally I’ll always err on the side of a little much than not to enough.
Used a full 4oz tub of Tinkseal. I’m almost due for sheave service. Zero issues.
I forget exactly but I think 3.4 3.5oz is enough.
Bear in mind the grease will immediately all be slung to the outside by centrifugal force and stay there just as you see it in your pics.
Its purpose is not lubrication of the rollers but lubrication of the sliders on the towers and primarily a seal around the outer edge of the cam plate to keep dust from getting inside.

Thanks man, that's awesome. Thanks for the pic thread.

 

[Paul65]

Is there any videos or pictures showing how much to use in the clutch.

Mine's an X2, but the clutch design is the same. After battling "belt bark" for years I changed from greaseless to Tink Seal. I used the Weller instructions. I have a little over 100 miles on it now and it works great, no belt bark yet. I'll know if it fixed the "belt bark" after another 100 miles.

The consensus was I didn't use enough, so you might want to add a little more Tink Seal.

Expensive time consuming mistake - primary sliders backwards

What's the ratio of Tinkseal to wheel bearing grease? I have mixed 16:1 (1oz to a pound) with Mobil1 red.

www.wolverineforums.com

Weller Instructions

 

[Viking2020]

Yes the shims will give you more low end. You can use one or both of the shims, .5mm for a slight increase in low end, 1mm for more or both 1.5mm for even more low end.
I had 1.5mm in my Kodiak and loved it, any more and you run the risk of the belt rubbing on the case, especially is you have a machined sheave like I did on my Kodiak so I had to use less shims with that. You can check out your sheave ratio by rotating the secondary one full turn and counting the primary rotations. Example in picture attached. all that said I did add 1.5 mm to my Viking thinking that because I loved that in the Kodiak but I hated it in the Viking and after only 5-10 miles they came back out.
At 3.0:1 is where you may/probably will start having a belt rub on the case The higher the ratio the higher the belt rides in the secondary at low speeds.

 

[Budro2]

Yes the shims will give you more low end. You can use one or both of the shims, .5mm for a slight increase in low end, 1mm for more or both 1.5mm for even more low end.
I had 1.5mm in my Kodiak and loved it, any more and you run the risk of the belt rubbing on the case, especially is you have a machined sheave like I did on my Kodiak so I had to use less shims with that. You can check out your sheave ratio by rotating the secondary one full turn and counting the primary rotations. Example in picture attached. all that said I did add 1.5 mm to my Viking thinking that because I loved that in the Kodiak but I hated it in the Viking and after only 5-10 miles they came back out.
At 3.0:1 is where you may/probably will start having a belt rub on the case The higher the ratio the higher the belt rides in the secondary at low speeds.
View attachment 104335

We can’t really compare the Viking ratio with the Rmax
Rmax has lots of room in the cover regarding belt rub and it’s 2.9:1 brand new and mine was 3.05:1 at 1000 miles stock.With a stock sheave a 1mm shim it’s 3.25:1 and no where near contacting the cover.

The limits will be way beyond that with the Weller sheave and shims. Roughly around 3.45:1 and ample cover clearance.

 

[Viking2020]

We can’t really compare the Viking ratio with the Rmax
Rmax has lots of room in the cover regarding belt rub and it’s 2.9:1 brand new and mine was 3.05:1 at 1000 miles stock.With a stock sheave a 1mm shim it’s 3.25:1 and no where near contacting the cover.

The limits will be way beyond that with the Weller sheave and shims. Roughly around 3.45:1 and ample cover clearance.

Yup, I understand…sorry if I was miss leading with that information, I was trying to just give an example and the above photo is actually from my Kodiak 700. I realize they are all different but thanks for sharing that because I never would have thought there was that big of a difference.