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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys almost finished with break in on my Rmax 4..I’m at 120 miles

what oil and weight is everyone using for their FIRST oil change

I know it’s not good to go to full synthetic your first oil change right after break in.. per dealership

whats everyone using? Weight ? Are you doing the same thing for the diffs and trans?
 

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Whatever is spec'd for it. Check the manual and/or ask the deal. Its cold now so a light oil such as 5W40 might be ok.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Whatever is spec'd for it. Check the manual and/or ask the deal. Its cold now so a light oil such as 5W40 might be ok.
i can’t find in manual where it even says to use different oil for your first oil change........ dealership said 0-50 which seems odd
 

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i can’t find in manual where it even says to use different oil for your first oil change........ dealership said 0-50 which seems odd
It's all in the manual, nowhere do I see 0-50 recommended, I use Lucas semi syn 10-40, and Lucas full syn 75-90 in diffs and trans. 10-40 is good from -10 to 110 F.

89949
 
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10W40 is what you'd want and ensure its Jasco MA certified for the wet clutch drive. I wouldn't got to 30 weight nor recommend it. especially now.

@Jimbo
He is in breaking post oem oil. No synthetic just yet IMO. Next change yeah go synthetic.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It's all in the manual, nowhere do I see 0-50 recommended, I use Lucas semi syn 10-40, and Lucas full syn 75-90 in diffs and trans. 10-40 is good from -10 to 110 F.

View attachment 89949
I know that.... I guess I did a bad job at asking my question..... lol
im running amsoil 10-40 full synthetic
dealership and a few ppl on FB forum said don’t go to synthetic right off oil change ..........
tahts What I was asking
 

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Didio done. Keep the purchase receipt!!!
 

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I would use the same methodology with the differentials also. Get a 1000 miles or so on them then switch to synthetic. This is what you want now. Don't get too itchy to get into the synthetic. And yes, like Tripplec said, keep your receipts.

89951
 
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Discussion Starter #12
You seem to be rushed into changing the oil type.

I'd relax a little on the synthetic desperation. You're at 120 miles. I'd run another 600-1000 or whatever on all components.
im just going on a longer ride and don’t want to run the crap that’s in it now......... so trying to get it changed
I, asking because I just went and bought all the synthetic stuff without knowing... trying to see what I can use or no
 

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if that's the case, I'd change it out now with regular stuff, and keep the synthetic fluids for the following change.

im just going on a longer ride and don’t want to run the crap that’s in it now......... so trying to get it changed
I, asking because I just went and bought all the synthetic stuff without knowing... trying to see what I can use or no
 

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im just going on a longer ride and don’t want to run the crap that’s in it now......... so trying to get it changed
I, asking because I just went and bought all the synthetic stuff without knowing... trying to see what I can use or no
Conventional for first 500 miles is a good idea I think. You want some wear to occur during break-in. Too slippery and no ring break in or longer to seat into the cylinder.

Some engines are run brand new with synthetic factory filled so I recon it is doable too.
 

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I've run synthetic on 1st service on all my brand new SxS and I've put over 4K miles on a Viking and 11K miles on my famous X4 and trust me, they're broken in. Our SxS with only 2 cylinders have to work a lot harder going up and down per RPM than a 4, 6, or 8 cylinder engine going the same distance. Cars don't have engine braking like our Yamahas do either (driving an automatic). You're seating your rings every time you let off the gas because of Yamaha's engine braking.

We're not talking old school cast iron cylinder bores with chrome plated piston rings anymore either. Just my opinion.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
yeah I can’t find it in that manual...... dealership said don’t do synthetic first change....
might just do 10-40 semi synthetic..... just to be safe .. thoguhts?
also how do you know when your rings are seated and break in is complete?
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
I've run synthetic on 1st service on all my brand new SxS and I've put over 4K miles on a Viking and 11K miles on my famous X4 and trust me, they're broken in. Our SxS with only 2 cylinders have to work a lot harder going up and down per RPM than a 4, 6, or 8 cylinder engine going the same distance. Cars don't have engine braking like our Yamahas do either (driving an automatic). You're seating your rings every time you let off the gas because of Yamaha's engine braking.

We're not talking old school cast iron cylinder bores with chrome plated piston rings anymore either. Just my opinion.

yeah I can’t find it in that manual...... only reason I even questioned it was I called dealership to ask if they had my oil I
dealership said don’t do synthetic first oil change.... but, I could probabaly ask another guy and their answer would be different... so don’t really trust them

might just do 10-40 semi synthetic..... just to be safe .. thoguhts?

also HOW do you know when your rings are seated and break in is complete?
 

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yeah I can’t find it in that manual...... only reason I even questioned it was I called dealership to ask if they had my oil I
dealership said don’t do synthetic first oil change.... but, I could probabaly ask another guy and their answer would be different... so don’t really trust them

might just do 10-40 semi synthetic..... just to be safe .. thoguhts?

also HOW do you know when your rings are seated and break in is complete?
At first service, 20 hours or 150 miles, if driven per break-in in the manual, it should be fairly broken in.
 
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