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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Installed Turn Signals utilizing the rear tail lights and the front running lights. The install costs less than $150 using a Curt trailer 3 to 2 wire converter, a Diode Dynamics S1 switchback module and a universal turn kit.


Rear Turn signal install:

1) Remove rear fenders
2) Route a 2-wire extension harness from the switch panel, under driver's seat then back to LH tail light.
3) Wire the Curt Trailer converter. (see wire diagram)

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Converter installed on right side but if I did it again the converter would be located by left tail light. Routing the two turn signal wires from the switch panel to the tail light is much easier down the left side.
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Front Turn signal install:

1) if using the front running light housings for the turn signals then remove both front fenders. If not, then select bullet light location, drill 3/4" holes and insert the lights.
2) Remove both running lights and install bullet lights

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When drilling the running light with a step bit becareful not to run the drill in to deep. The housing has an internal light guide that's 1-1/4" below the outer surface. I cut the first two steps off my bit so it could reach the 3/4" step without drilling into the guide.
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I had concerns about drilling holes in the housings but found that the light housings are not sealed. The OEM wires feed through a rubber grommet so adding the bullet lights with grommets shouldn't be a problem.
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3) reinstall running lights with bullet light wires routed under the hood near the running light wire connectors
4) route a 2-wire extension harness from the switch panel to the front of the machine.
5) Wire the Diode Dynamics S1 switchback module. (see wire diagram). If not using the S1 module then simply wire left and right turn switch wires to the bullet lights.

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Parts List:

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I just bought an RMAX4 exactly like this one and will be giving this a shot. Doesn't look too awfully complicated. I priced all the parts off Amazon and they came to just a hair over $150. Much better than close to $400 for the ready made kits that don't use the factory runnng lights as signals. Thanks for the write up and pics!
 

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Thanks for the very detailed post. I may do this on my next Rmax. I see now that Ryco started using the front running lights for their front turn signals. I wonder where they got that idea. :)
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
yes, I installed a horn kit. It came with a wire harness, relay and switch so the install was simple.
 

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Hi, I have a 22 rmax2 xtr1000. I’m following your lead and installing the turn signal system. I don’t have a wiring schematic for it and am at a loss for the 12 volt access. I’m using a four pin rocker switch that came in the signal kit from Amazon. I put the Kurt box on the left side and now need to take out the interior to run the wires forward. The conversion of the running lights was easy and that is done. The S2 units are also done. I need to find some power for the flasher and I’m lost. I want it to be operational with the ignition on only. I also need power for a horn and a light bar I plan to install on the roof. I’m new to this machine and am aware that there are pre wired circuits but I can’t recognize them. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Augie
 

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Power access

Here is a video showing how to access the 12 volt plugs on a RMAX. There are other videos showing you how to do it but this should work. You can purchase connectors from Amazon or a Yamaha dealer.
I purchased mine on Amazon. They’re a much lower price.
 
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Power access

Here is a video showing how to access the 12 volt plugs on a RMAX. There are other videos showing you how to do it but this should work. You can purchase connectors from Amazon or a Yamaha dealer.
I purchased mine on Amazon. They’re a much lower price.
Thanks! That clears the keyed power issue up. Now, do I really need a relay in line for the little single horn? I’m also wanting to put in a hazard rocker switch next to the turn signal rocker. Not sure how to wire it. I’m thinking it’s just jumper wires to the hazard switch? Thanks again! Augie
 

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Thanks! That clears the keyed power issue up. Now, do I really need a relay in line for the little single horn? I’m also wanting to put in a hazard rocker switch next to the turn signal rocker. Not sure how to wire it. I’m thinking it’s just jumper wires to the hazard switch? Thanks again! Augie
You have to have a single throw double pole hazard switch so the right and left turn signals are isolated from each other. If you jumper both switches together on a single pole hazard switch all signals will flash when you use the turn signals.

You can purchase a low cost horn kit from either Ebay or Amazon that will include everything you need.

I purchased mine from Amazon and the only modification I had to do was change the power connector.
 

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View attachment 107265
Augie, here’s a wiring diagram I found that will work.
That's a great diagram!

Here's mine.
Right above this post is the parts I used.
 
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I'll add, if you have flashers (not everyone does, some just do turn signals), you want them to work whether the ignition key is on or not. As a rule I wire everything accessory direct to the battery with a fuse and a switch. I'll choose whether the switch is on. It's all independent of the ignition key. Light bars, turns signals & flashers, stereo, rock lights... I'll choose to flip a switch if I want them on or off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
A DPST switch for hazards can be difficult to find so I used a SPST hazard switch. This setup requires the hazard switch along with the turn switch to be turned on for the 4-ways to work. Because the hazards are seldom used I didn't think a double switch control was a big deal.

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As I said earlier, I added signals in the steering column cover. It really makes it nice so you aren't cruising along not knowing they are on. Pretty easy, just tap into your signal wires. These are the ones I got...

 

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A DPDT switch for hazards can be difficult to find so I used a SPST hazard switch. This setup requires the hazard switch along with the turn switch to be turned on for the 4-ways to work. Because the hazards are seldom used I didn't think a double switch control was a big deal.
I had trouble finding a double pole rocker switch. I was finally able to source one on Aliexpress. It’s a double pole double throw. I wanted a double pole single throw but couldn’t find one. I also ordered dash lights from the same website. I have everything on the way so it will be here when my new RMAX arrives.
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I had trouble finding a double pole rocker switch. I was finally able to source one on Aliexpress. It’s a double pole double throw. I wanted a double pole single throw but couldn’t find one. I also ordered dash lights from the same website. I have everything on the way so it will be here when my new RMAX arrives.
I corrected my previous post. I original said the DPDT hazard switch was hard to find but meant to say DPST. Did the DPDT switch you found have the hazard emblem etched in and was it backlit blue to match the other switches?

I also added LED turn indicators on the steering column but at times still forget to turn the signal off. There's a timed module available that I might add that will auto off the turns. Installation would also require replacing the turn rocker switch with a moment rocker switch.
 
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No the switch I ordered doesn’t have the hazard symbol. It is backlit blue top and bottom to show it’s on.
I have a family member that has a vinyl cutter that can make me something to put on or near the switch.
 
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Makes total sense to me. Thanks again.
I bought a nilite single throw double pole 5 pin hazard switc thinking that would work for the hazard circuit you showed me. Turns out that nilite uses the second poles to light the switch! It didn’t work so I got a couple of diodes and installed them on the turn signal wires from the turn switch to the hazard switch input. Works beautifully! The Rmaxis back together now and it was a challenge but I know my machine a lot better now. Thank for all your help. Augie
 
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