Yamaha Wolverine Forum banner

1 - 20 of 31 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
796 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Got tired of my rear differential pinion seal having a slight leak so decided to replace the seal. Removed differential from the Wolverine and first thing I discovered upon looking in the end of the differential was that the rubber "Damper" was completely destroyed where the center of the Damper with the protrusion had broken apart from the washer surface of the Damper with the protruding part still in the drive shaft going to the engine and the rubber washer looking part of the Damper was stuck around the "Final Drive Pinion Gear" (see picture below of broken damper). Removed the "Rear Drive Shaft Coupling Gear Nut (final drive assembly side) and it was not tight at all and is supposed to be torqued at 70 ft/lbs. The nut came off with very little pressure except for the nylon locking insert (it is a Nut with a Nylon Insert). After removing the "Rear Drive Shaft Coupling Gear the seal appeared to be in good condition and I contribute the leak to the loose Drive Shaft Coupling Nut, which more than likely also is what ruined the Damper. Going to replace the seals anyway since everything is apart.

I do have one question, there is a rubber material inside the Rear Drive Shaft Coupling Gear that is gray in color with a very irregular hole in it (see I.D. of Drive Shaft Coupling Gear in pictures below). It appears to be some type of sealant, can anyone verify this for sure, or is this rubber material part of the Rear Drive Shaft Coupling Gear and the Coupling Gear is also bad? Thanks for any input, since this is my first time into the differential.

From researching on various forums before I started this project, I had read on the Viking Forum that the Coupling Gear Nut can become loose and will let the pinion seal leak. This explains why my diff. oil was only leaking from the inside of the Dust Cover. I'm sure it would have just steadily gotten worse and may have caused more damage with the loose nut. To anyone else that has diff. oil coming out from under the Dust Cover (boot) I would suspect that you will encounter the same things I have here. If the seal itself is bad you will more than likely have a lot bigger leak with a lot of diff. oil leaking.

Broken Damper
Damper broken.JPG

Rear Drive Shaft Coupling
Drive Shaft Coupling Gear - side view.JPG

Front View of Drive Shaft Coupling
Drive Shaft Coupling Gear - Front view 2 (toward motor).JPG

Rear View of Drive Shaft Coupling
Drive Shaft Coupling Gear - Rear view (diff. end).JPG

Front of Rear Differential
Front of Diff.JPG
 

·
Registered
2017 Wolverine SE
Joined
·
2,437 Posts
Wow, good catch,

Looks like big job though.

Good luck
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,150 Posts
I’ve been waiting for you to do yours before deciding if I’m going to do mine. My diff seal there was leaking at about 500 miles and changed on warranty at the dealer. Now it’s leaking again and slowly getting worse but this time it’s coming from inside the dust cover. I figured you would do a picture tutorial and then I might have an idea of what I’m up against, so thank you! Please keep posting as you progress with any new info!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
796 Posts
Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
It's not really to hard of a job, just time consuming with everything you have to disassemble. I would definitely replace all 3 seals in the diff. (front pinion seal and both axle seals) while you have it out. All (3) seals are the same part and cost $5.62 each from Partzilla.com, plus you might as well replace the rear Dust Seal that is about $6, since it is probably gotten hard from heat, washings, and normal use.

You need to follow the Service Manual especially for parts of the reassemble. Such as using a sealant on the pinion gear splines and at the end of the splines where the Drive Shaft Coupling mates to the pinion gear shaft, plus the Service Manual says to use Loctite on the Drive Shaft Coupling Nut, not sure how much good it would do on a nut with a Nylon Insert. Permatex makes a Gear Oil RTV silicon sealant p/n 81182 made just for differentials/gear oil that I think would be the same as the Yamalube product. I am using the Permatex product, is gray in color and looks the same as what was used from factory. While ordering parts I would also order the Damper since it is less than a $2 part. Might as well replace it regardless if yours if good or bad, looks like it would take a lot of punishment from normal use.

For removing the rear differential:
1. Remove bed
2. Drain differential oil
3. Remove rear wheels
4. Remove Brake Calipers from knuckles and tie up out of the way.
5. Remove upper and lower A-Arm bolts attached to knuckle
6. Disconnect sway bar from A-Arms (I always prefer to unbolt the upper joint on each side of the Sway Bar, is easier to get to and reassembly than the lower ball joint on the sway bar)
7. Swing upper A-Arms up as high as possible to be able to get a straight pull for popping out axles (can secure with small ratchet strap or rope to hold up)
8. Remove axles (you do not need to remove the axle nuts from the axle just leave knuckle and axle together)
9. Disconnect parking brake cable at Differential, can leave Parking Brake Arm/Lever attached to the Differential (can loosen cable at Parking Brake Handle to provide enough extra length to get cable out of arm/lever on Differential
10. Disconnect vent line from Differential
11. Remove (4) bolts holding Upper Differential Mounting Bracket to frame and remove (2) bolts attaching Differential to Upper Mounting Bracket. Remove Upper Mounting Bracket.
12. Remove (2) bolts attaching Lower Differential Mounting Bracket to frame. Do not remove bolt going through Lower Differential Mounting Bracket to Differential yet.
13. Differential will now be loose and you can slide differential backwards to slide diff. gear coupling off of drive shaft coming from engine.
14. With Differential slid backwards a couple of inches you can now get a ratchet with socket on the bolt attaching the differential to the Lower Differential Mounting Bracket. Remove Lower Bracket.
15. Swing Driver's Side upper A-Arm down as low as possible to give more room for removing differential from frame.
16. If looking at Differential from the rear of Wolverine roll Differential 90 degrees Counter-clockwise while also rotating it to the left 90 degrees (Driver's side) to remove it on the Driver's side just in front of where the wheel would be and above the upper A-Arm you swung down. (Passenger side rear axle opening/seal will be pointed straight up to remove differential fairly easily.
Some of what I listed above, the Service Manual does not mention and you have to figure it out as you go, so this may make it easier for the next person.

For replacing Pinion Seal:
1. Securely hold outside of Drive Shaft Gear Coupling (I used a Vice Grip Style oil filter wrench) and remove Drive Shaft Coupling Nut and thick washer inside coupling (22 mm deep socket)
2. Slide Drive Shaft Gear Coupling off of Pinion Gear Shaft (may take a little persuasion or may just slide right off easily, Sealant was used between Gear Coupling and Pinion Gear Shaft so Sealant may have the 2 stuck together slightly).
3. Seal is now where it can be removed. If you don't have a Seal Puller it is definitely worth buying the Harbor Freight $7.99 Seal Puller, since you will be doing all 3 seals, and the Seals will easily pop out and not really damage them or risk scratching the seal's mating surface in the differential.
4. Light coating of grease on new seal and you can press the seal about half way in by hand, to get it started straight. Use old seal, on top of new seal, to tap new seal into place.
 

·
Registered
2017 Wolverine SE
Joined
·
2,437 Posts
Where was the offending bolt that cause the problem you mentioned.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Tracen8r

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
796 Posts
Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
It was the 22 mm Nylon Locking Nut that screws onto the end of the Pinion Gear Shaft and holds the Differential Gear Coupling on the Pinion Gear Shaft. A very thick washer goes under the nut and both go inside of picture number 2 and 3 in my post above. Service Manual says to put Loctite on Nut and to torque it to 70 ft./lbs. Personally, I don't think Loctite would have much effect on a Nylon surface.

Edit: After thoroughly cleaning the I.D. of the nut so I could see the inside better, only the top 2 threads have a nylon insert.

The trick may be trying to hold in place the round surface of the outside of the Gear Coupling while trying to torque it to 70 ft./lbs. may end up having to put an axle in the diff. to be able to hold it, will cross that bridge when I get to it. This is still a work in progress.

Order of parts to get to seal
Order Parts go on Front of Differential.JPG

New Yamaha OEM p/n 1XD-E511B-00-00 Oil Seal with numbers on face of seal, might be able to cross it over.
Seal with number.JPG
 
  • Like
Reactions: Tracen8r and Budro2

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
796 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
I’ve been waiting for you to do yours before deciding if I’m going to do mine. My diff seal there was leaking at about 500 miles and changed on warranty at the dealer. Now it’s leaking again and slowly getting worse but this time it’s coming from inside the dust cover. I figured you would do a picture tutorial and then I might have an idea of what I’m up against, so thank you! Please keep posting as you progress with any new info!
Ha Ha, I was waiting on ATCDan to do his, with pictures, but I couldn't wait any longer since I'm getting ready for a trip to Paiute in a few weeks.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Tracen8r and Budro2

·
Registered
Joined
·
502 Posts
Service Manual says to put Loctite on Nut and to torque it to 70 ft./lbs. Personally, I don't think Loctite would have much effect on a Nylon surface.
The nut isn't nylon. It is in addition to the nylon insert. Plenty of steel on steel for the Locktite to hold.

Nylon only good for one use usually on big fine threaded nuts.

I would clean it and the shaft good and coat it will blue Locktite for good measure.

Seal is not very common. Oddly sized. 35 mm X 61mm X 9 mm
 

·
Registered
2017 Wolverine SE
Joined
·
2,437 Posts
An assemble pic might help see where it is. Can it be inspected without taking out the diff?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
796 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
An assemble pic might help see where it is. Can it be inspected without taking out the diff?
No, Not at all. The nut is about 2" down inside the Differential Gear Coupling and the Drive Shaft from the engine goes into the Gear Coupling (covering up the nut) making the nut impossible to see until the Differential is out, or at least until the Differential is completely unbolted from the frame and slid back to the point where the engine drive shaft is out of the coupling and then you would have to use a mirror. You might as well just say you have to take the Differential out to see it adequately and to be able to tell if the Nut is tight.

If your not leaking a small amount of diff. oil from under the Dust Cover/boot I would say the nut is probably tight and don't worry about. If your leaking a small amount from under the Dust Cover and not from around the front of the differential itself, (yet), then I would say the nut is loose.

When new from factory and after a reassembly/install of the Differential the Service Manual states to put grease on the splines of the drive shaft where the couplings are so when new or after a reinstall it is possible that you may see a small amount of grease drip from the Dust Cover when the drive-line gets it's hottest. This should be easy to distinguish the diff. oil from grease and the amount should be minimal.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
796 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Ok, thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
502 Posts
Make sure to silicone the splines that's where mine was leaking when the nut came loose.
How did you get in there and clean the oil off. Looks like that would be difficult ?

Just a suggestion as silicone will do almost nothing unless completely oil free.

A can of good chlorinated brake cleaner shot on it several times may breakdown gear lube and leave you a clean surface for silicone to seal to.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
796 Posts
Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Used brake cleaner and q-tip with brake cleaner to clean splines on shaft. Ended up cleaning all the parts that would be getting Sealant on them 3 times with Brake Cleaner. Getting ready to put nut/gear coupling on later today and torque to 70 ft./lbs. What did you use to hold the Gear Coupling while torquing the nut inside of it?

Edit: Looking back in hindsight in cleaning the splines, mating surface for washer, and washer for applying sealant to them to prevent diff. oil leakage around the splines, in addition to cleaning with brake cleaner I would also clean them with Acetone since this is such a critical step to insure that the sealant sticks to the surfaces where needed.

Plan to use this sealer by Permatex
Permatex Gear Oil Sealer.jpg

Edit: Generously applied Sealant to splines and mating surface for washer, pushed parts together by hand, and let cure for about 45 minutes per instructions and assembled Drive Shaft Gear Coupling, washer, and nut, on to Differential Pinion Gear/Shaft. Ran a ratchet strap around the Differential and strapped it down on the work bench to keep it from moving. Ended up having to use a Pipe Wrench to hold the outside of the Drive Shaft Gear Coupling to be able to torque the nut to 70 ft./lbs, but the Pipe Wrench worked very well, better than what I was expecting. I did have a friend hold the pipe wrench, would be difficult for 1 person to do, but with 2 people is simple.

Then let sealant fully cure for at least 24 hours before refilling with Gear Oil.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Budro2

·
Registered
2017 Wolverine SE
Joined
·
2,437 Posts
I had the dealer check and grease the shaft and/or confirm it was grease during my first service so I have a bit of wet looking bushing from the greasing. Its not leaking nor oily but just wondering.

Thanks !!!
 
  • Like
Reactions: PapaSkeeta

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,419 Posts
Used brake cleaner and q-tip with brake cleaner to clean splines on shaft. Ended up cleaning all the parts that would be getting Sealant on them 3 times with Brake Cleaner. Getting ready to put nut/gear coupling on later today and torque to 70 ft./lbs. What did you use to hold the Gear Coupling while torquing the nut inside of it?

Plan to use this sealer by Permatex
View attachment 76958

Edit: Generously applied Sealant to splines and mating surface for washer, pushed parts together by hand, and let cure for about 45 minutes per instructions and assembled Drive Shaft Gear Coupling, washer, and nut, on to Differential Pinion Gear/Shaft. Ran a ratchet strap around the Differential and strapped it down on the work bench to keep it from moving. Ended up having to use a Pipe Wrench to hold the outside of the Drive Shaft Gear Coupling to be able to torque the nut to 70 ft./lbs, but the Pipe Wrench worked very well, better than what I was expecting. I did have a friend hold the pipe wrench, would be difficult for 1 person to do, but with 2 people is simple.
I have not looked at the actual setup but from the rust on the unit and the manual, it appears the coupling is exposed before the shaft inserted, so for me the top priority is the torque not the look, so I would not hesitate to use a narrow jaw pipe wrench if the shoulder is were I could grab it.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
796 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
You can put as big of a Pipe Wrench as you want to on the area marked below to hold the coupling while tightening the nut inside of it. The coupling must be made out of a hardened tool steel because my 24" pipe wrench hardly put any teeth marks in it at all. The coupling is very hard. I did take some emery cloth to smooth up a small burr the pipe wrench made, but it was very minimal and I really would not have had to do anything to the coupling from holding it with the pipe wrench and it would not have been noticeable unless you looked closely.
Drive Shaft Coupling Gear - side view Pipe Wrench.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: jimclemjr

·
Far from stock
Joined
·
954 Posts
Ha Ha, I was waiting on ATCDan to do his, with pictures, but I couldn't wait any longer
.

Oh how I want to work on mine. I’ve got about a week left on my house flip I’m doing and then I have a few projects on my own house to do. I’m having a 24x32 building with an attic put in soon as well. It pains me to see my sad looking wolvy sitting idle in the garage with a big puddle of dif fluid under it. I’m glad you beat me to it so I can see how. Lol.
 
  • Like
Reactions: PapaSkeeta

·
Registered
Joined
·
502 Posts
Have to remember to save a old axle if I ever replace one or grab up a old one from someone. Weld a bar out the side of the inner splined hub. Be perfect for holding the assembly while tightening the pinion nut.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
796 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Happy to report that after 600+ miles of riding in Paiute and Moab, UT the pinoin seal (seal on front of rear differential) is not leaking at all, since I replaced it just before leaving for UT.
 
1 - 20 of 31 Posts
Top