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Discussion Starter #81
Good to hear. Thanks for confirming.

Ok hit the seals with WD40 and the CV boots and still have the squeel

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DU6E0_1P22o
I just jacked up my buggy and turned the wheels. Mine makes the exact same noise but only on the driver side where it has the hard stiff OEM boot with many pleats. The passenger side has aftermarket boots that are softer, more flexible and fewer pleats. No noise coming from that side. Sprayed WD 40 on it and it didn’t help.

Went to the front. Have the same scenario up there. OEM on one side aftermarket on the other. Noise happens on the OEM boot only. For me, I am certain that is the boot and a non issue!
 

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Discussion Starter #82
Yes last 2 rides is when this all started happening. I was on a mile 120 of the first ride when the passenger rear blew and the driver side was ready to and was seeping. Factory oem boots. That was when the passenger inner cv was so hot it was smoking. I then got it home replaced both with the lightning boot kits, new poly grease that it came with and changed the rear differential to the Amsoil gl5 with the gear butter. I then blew the passenger inner on mile 60ish of my next ride and the driver is deformed and ready to go. It was this ride that I made the video of the temp readings.

Ok machine is at the dealer now. I made 3 videos. My camera on my iPhone is on its way out so sorry for the focus and background noise. First video is a recap on the suspension how it sits with the eibach springs.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_UBjsJErhhk
I’m pretty sure you have an issue with to much heat and hope they resolve it for you but the thought comes to mind as a question.

Did you only begin to blow up CV boots after changing to an aftermarket brand. I never heard of the brand you mentioned in a previous post after it having happened a 2nd time.

We know they tend to run to hot to touch if driven for a period of time at a decent speed. I just felt mine the last ride and I couldn’t hold my fingers on them for more than a second. I don’t know what the temperature of them is but I wonder about the possibility of a particular aftermarket brand of boot just not being able to take that amount of heat?

We’re they OEM boots that blew up the 1st time?
 

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My buggy was still jacked up this morning. After sitting all night with the lube on it, the noise was 75% gone.
I put petroleum jelly on the boot and at the seal edge and turned it and it went completely away!
 

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Discussion Starter #84
So just the way the boots are. I remember the rhinos sounding like this too.

My buggy was still jacked up this morning. After sitting all night with the lube on it, the noise was 75% gone.
I put petroleum jelly on the boot and at the seal edge and turned it and it went completely away!
 

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Just did mine today

 

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I jinxed myself when I said I haven't had any rear end issues. Blew the rear pinion seal.
Check that your vent is clear first. Hot weather and a clogged vent will push fluid out somewhere.
 

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Something that I found interesting and just passing it on.
In my search for Belray assembly lube for the CVT secondary, as per Yamaha recommends, I talked w/ a guy that races cars and they use it in there CV joints.

""Bel Ray assembly lube approaches a 40% level of molybdenum disulfide content, making it superior to anything else we have found for use in high load CV applications.""

That would be expensive CV lube @ $14.75 + shipping, but I thought it was interesting.
There are more expensive CV lubes out there like Red line, etc.

Just wondering the quality of CV grease that many use and something to look at.
 

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In my 2008, Grizzly 700 ATV, for years I have been using the red, high temp. grease you can get at Walmart for the Primary and Secondary Sheave's ID and then for the Rollers/Weights in the Primary I have used Bel-Ray Waterproof Grease, going on 10 years that way now. Haven't had any problems at all with that set up.

In the Wolverine when I just serviced it last week I used Tinkseal, to see how it does. My primary is grease-less for the rollers/weights.
 

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Discussion Starter #91
Update from the dealer. So they were able to reproduce the temps I was getting. The Problem: they contacted Yamaha and their is no data on what a normal operating temp should be or any technical data for any issues like this. They did test a RZR the same way to reproduce the same but even higher temps in the differential and CV. So at this point they are saying to replace the boots with OEM as they are able to handle the higher temps and better quality. No real answer and for now it sounds like the temps in the low 300’s is acceptable. We will see. To be continued.
 

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I would consider the CV grease also.
We start a world war on any forum over the best oil to use, but a bag with CV Grease written on the side is good....lol.
 
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My vent line was kinked where the top goes into the frame. Unfortunately getting the kink out and blowing the vent hose out didn't fix the issue so I have the seal on order.
A good read prior too would be REPLACING REAR DIFFERENTIAL PINION SEAL in the Gen 1 section transmission and drive train by Papaskeeta!
 

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Update from the dealer. So they were able to reproduce the temps I was getting. The Problem: they contacted Yamaha and their is no data on what a normal operating temp should be or any technical data for any issues like this. They did test a RZR the same way to reproduce the same but even higher temps in the differential and CV. So at this point they are saying to replace the boots with OEM as they are able to handle the higher temps and better quality. No real answer and for now it sounds like the temps in the low 300’s is acceptable. We will see. To be continued.
You may want to contact some oil manufacturers and get the temps that there oil breaks down at and use that to argue your point. I couldn't much online for this.

This was the best I could find.

Eaton conducted tests on oil/component durability during the late 1980s early 1990s Their intent was to maximize seal and gear life and to allow the maximum OCI possible for their Heavy Truck gearboxes and diffs when using 75w-90 and SAE50 gear oils They found; a) components should not be operated at consistent temperatures above 250F b) Intermittent operations to 300F do not harm the components or oils (synthetics) c) Oils with a sulphur/phosphorus additive package activate rapidly above 230F. d) A poor additive package in a synthetic lubricant may not be as good as a (thermally stable) additive package in a mineral oil.
 
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Amsoil severe gear is the ticket. I drive my X2 like I stole it and havent ran to any issues with blowing boots from heat. The Factory clamps are not ideal either as they aren't crimp style and can work loose.
 

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Grease. Quality grease also.
 
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