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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey Fellas,

I've been reading about the power commander & the sheave by Hunterworks. I've not looked into nor researched the JBS stuff yet. I'm pretty much making a bucket list of stuff to install down the road (Haven't even installed winch yet), so we're talking 6 months or more down the road.

Here are my questions:

What is the difference between adding a sheave (be it hunterworks or JBS or any other manufacturer) vs. adding a power commander?

What does each do if added alone (ie. what to expect if only the sheave is installed. what to expect if only the power commander is installed. what to expect if both are installed)

Specifically, I'm 100% stock, and really had no intentions of adding performance parts to it. However, I wouldn't mind adding things that aren't going to tear it up if I happen to get in a bind.

My main purpose for the wolverine is for Hunting, Working in the woods, and light recreational use - no hard core mudding. Being in Louisiana, we have very few hills, though I do have the option to hop across the river into Mississippi and ride hill trails there.

Like I said, I've read a bit on the Hunterworks website, and honestly the technical stuff pretty well goes right over my head, so I'd like to ask for the answers in lamens terms. In addition, my research so far has led me in circles. For example, when researching the sheave, it leads me into reading about slug kits and shims and all sorts of other things that I have no clue about. So once I have a grasp on these 2 parts, maybe the other stuff will make more sense to me.

As you can tell, I'm in the research phase, so I ask to please not turn this into a personal attack thread, I've seen some of you guys in action :cool:

Thanks guys!

Todd
 

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Clutching is gonna def do most bang for buck.....you will not gain hp to say but you will feel it seat of pants driving....it will help machine in long term by making it easier on everything else....now how it works is slug kit is lead pieces that lock into your wet clutch therefore causing more friction on the plates and engaging without slipping per say.....the 18, 16, 15,gr weights and stuff per say is going to engage rpms higher therefore getting more peak power but you can also over rev the motor and go past your say power band.....lighter weights higher you will rev this all depends on application.....and secondary spring is based on tire size and weight as it keeps tension on belt therefore helping it not slip in the sheaves.....pretty simple once you figure it all out.....now one company uses grease and other does not.....I have used both in same machine going greaseless makes way more ratchet and is a lot noisier.....then keeping grease in it.....also notice it doesn't get as hot inside the cvt with the grease......going greaseless only has one advantage and it isn't even that.....you can clean it out with water hose but you still gotta take it all apart and if you do that then that takes longer then cleaning the sheave anyways....you have much quieter ride for the next year or so.....according how many miles you put on your machine......I won't state which one is better as this forum is totally one sided anyways but you hang around here long enough you will know which one is better
 

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The Hunterworks clutch is much more maintenance free and does not chatter or make noise. Basically they both accomplish the same thing, except the JBS clutch is only partially machined so you are stuck using OD sliders, where as you can use either slider or rollers with the Hunterworks. Plus, Hunterworks is cheaper, you can send him your stock sheave and he will machine it for $50.00. You won't find a better deal anywhere.

Here is a link to more information on the cvt transmissions.
http://www.wolverineforums.com/foru...ain/3290-how-yamaha-ultramatic-cvt-works.html
 

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You're stuck using OD sliders until you machine the outer clutch. Dropping rollers in a gbs clutch will limit your top end. Hunterworks machines both sides, so you can use either OD or Roller system, and he machines the clutches himself for way less money.
 

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The powercommander with my new mapping increases throttle response right from the bottom. There is up to 29% leaning in the midrange and 10% on top. Exhaust glowing is greatly reduced. Be sure to ask for "Tinken" programming when purchasing the powercommander.
 

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The "Tinken" programming is GREAT!! I have even less exhaust glow than I did with the old mapping (which improved it greatly over stock) and even better throttle response. It also eliminated 90% of the cold start issue. "Most" of the time it will now start on the first try even when its well below freezing out. I never thought the cold start thing was really an issue to begin with but boy there are a few guys on here it drove/drives nuts!

I won't dare get in the middle of the Hunterworks JBS crap but I will say I am 100% happy with my Hunterworks sheave kit and you couldn't ask for better customer service.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks guys.

So, sheave kit = clutch kit?

The first response lost me right out of the gate.

Maybe I can ask more specific questions.

Say I order the sheave kit. Once installed what does it do?

Please keep in mind that I'm not up to speed with performance verbiage, so for example "making it leaner" pretty much goes right over my head and have no clue what it means.

Also, say I installed the power commander alone, what would it do as far as end result.

I guess the type of answers I'm looking for are along the lines of top end speed, take off, gas mileage type stuff.

Thanks for the replies guys. I've watched the video once already. Will watch again before posting.
 

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Hello Chief7. The wet clutch kit adds weight and helps with take off power transfer. The Sheave kit extends the range of the Yamaha automatic transmission, meaning it will be lower geared and higher geared than the original. The Powercommander improves fueling to the engine, startup, take off and over all power increase. Feel free to contact our support vendor Hunterworks.com which you mentioned earlier in you original post.


 

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The Hunterworks clutch is much more maintenance free and does not chatter or make noise. Basically they both accomplish the same thing, except the JBS clutch is only partially machined so you are stuck using OD sliders, where as you can use either slider or rollers with the Hunterworks. Plus, Hunterworks is cheaper, you can send him your stock sheave and he will machine it for $50.00. You won't find a better deal anywhere.

Here is a link to more information on the cvt transmissions.
http://www.wolverineforums.com/foru...ain/3290-how-yamaha-ultramatic-cvt-works.html
You are right, no noise. Not sure where the noisy with greaseless comes in, I have purpose did several before and after listening and yeah I am a little hard of hearing but I can't tell a difference and can't for the life of me figure our how anything would rattle anyway, all parts are under a load

But on the $50 deal, we stopped machining rhino 700 and wolverine customer sheave, the new process on the bearing side is critical and I ruined two customer sheaves having to give them new ones. So I had to stop, was losing money on that.

Todd
 

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Thanks guys.

So, sheave kit = clutch kit?

The first response lost me right out of the gate.

Maybe I can ask more specific questions.

Say I order the sheave kit. Once installed what does it do?

Please keep in mind that I'm not up to speed with performance verbiage, so for example "making it leaner" pretty much goes right over my head and have no clue what it means.

Also, say I installed the power commander alone, what would it do as far as end result.

I guess the type of answers I'm looking for are along the lines of top end speed, take off, gas mileage type stuff.

Thanks for the replies guys. I've watched the video once already. Will watch again before posting.
This is about as simple as I can make it which is what I say on the phone, the sheave has lower lows, higher highs, lower cruising rpm and you get to go greaseless for easier maintenance

On the power commander the main selling point on a Wolverine is lower exhaust temps. When they said lean them mean the stock computer does not give enough fuel during most of the rpm range and it makes the engine run hotter which makes the exhaust pipe hotter, which makes the rear differential and bed hotter

Todd
 

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Yes I was stating it from the Viking clutch, I only post real world stuff not hearsay, so yes his wolverine might be much quieter but when I had a hunterworks sheave for my Viking it was noticeably louder for sure, but remember Viking and wolverine are same sheave.....if his new stuff is quieter that is a huge improvement over what I had to say the least....which is a good thing
 

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Ah okay. Todd and I worked together to produce his current Wolverine sheave system. The coating gets worked into the metal sheave and into the actual rollers or sliders. Since you no longer use that grease cover or o-ring, you no longer have the issue of the clutch hitting the spider cage when using shims. He also has removed the inside lip of the clutch that was once left on the Viking clutches.
 

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10-4 understood tinken.... yeah sounds like a lot has changed in the sheave machining for sure.....anything for the better is always good.....im happy with my sheave though which we won't get into that since it doesn't belong on this forum, but the power commander i have been thinking about but might just go with the auto tune then i know it will be tuned perfect for my machine...i don't have a place locally that dynes atv or sxs
 

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Pretty easy install, there is a 18mm bung to be welded into the exhaust. Set afr to 12.8. Just ride and accept the trims after awhile. I prefer it over the Bazazz which has no accel programs. Hunterworks has rev codes.

When are you getting a Wolverine?
 

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FWIW...JBS does machine both sides of the sheave. Not sure where your information is coming from...but I had one of the first sheaves he made for the wolverine last year, it is nearly identical to Todd's. Just Sayin.
Unless something has changed he does not machine the end track of the roller weight track, no need when using OD weights they do the overdrive portion.

I will be the first one to say I don't keep up with what any competitor does though so maybe it has changed.

I know he changed from two plastic friction washers to one metal where we use two with lube in them.
 
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