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Anyone else having issues checking the oil accurately? I recently did the first service on my RMAX. I put the recommended amount of oil in for a oil and filter change. 4.39 qts. I ran is as recommended and periodically check the oil level as directed. Warm up the RMAX to operating temperature. Allow to idle for a minimum of 10 seconds and check without screwing in the dip stick. Over full. The next day or two I go back out without warming it up to see where the oil level is and none on the dip stick. I warming up and overfull so I pull some out and still overfull. I plan on relying on the fact that I put in the recommended 4.39 qts in.
 

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Yes it’s learning curve. I went through that exact scenario myself even after reading all about it on the forum.
The 4.39 is a bit much for me because I don’t drain the cooler lines. A lot of people think it’s unnecessary because so little comes out but I simply can’t because my aftermarket skid plates don’t have the holes to access them.
The thing I’ve found to work consistently for me is to warm it up till the fan kicks on. 211 degrees. Not just say 180 degrees. I have tested this and it reads different for me checking it after it’s at 180 than after the fan kicks on and then shuts off. After the fan comes on and turns off I shut it down and wait 10 min. When you change the oil it says to add a specified amount in the valve cover and a specified amount in the oil tank. These two numbers don’t add up to the full amount. It then says start the engine and warm it up, shut it off and wait 10 minutes, check the level and then add the remaining amount to full. If it takes 10 minutes for things to be right to check it for proper level when changing the oil, then why do they not mention to wait 10 minutes when checking the oil? They only say let it idle 10 seconds before shutting it down if you’ve been driving it and then check the oil.
I just changed mine for the second time a few days ago and followed this procedure this time. I found the oil level about 1/2 way up the hash marks and added a bit more to get it to the top. It took 4.25 quarts to full without draining the cooler lines and when I check it as stated above it is always on the full mark and not over full!
 

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Sorry to digress but if you have an aftermarket or extended warranty make sure you doing your own service meets the terms of warranty.
 

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2021 Red-neck Edition RMAX2 XT-R
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Yes it’s learning curve. I went through that exact scenario myself even after reading all about it on the forum.
The 4.39 is a bit much for me because I don’t drain the cooler lines. A lot of people think it’s unnecessary because so little comes out but I simply can’t because my aftermarket skid plates don’t have the holes to access them.
The thing I’ve found to work consistently for me is to warm it up till the fan kicks on. 211 degrees. Not just say 180 degrees. I have tested this and it reads different for me checking it after it’s at 180 than after than fan kicks on and then shuts off. After the fan comes on I wait 10 minutes. I find I get the same result every time this way. The reason I wait ten minutes is because the book says wait 10 seconds for checking oil but when you change the oil it says to add a specified amount in the valve cover and a specified amount in the oil tank. These two numbers don’t add up to the full amount. It then says start the engine and warm it up, shut it off and wait 10 minutes, check the level and then add the remaining amount to full. If it takes 10 minutes for things to be right to check it for proper level when changing the oil, then why does it only take 10 seconds to check it later?
I just changed mine for the second time a few days ago and followed this procedure this time. I found the oil level about 1/2 way up the hash marks and added a bit more to get it to the top. It took 4.25 quarts to full without draining the cooler lines and when I check it as stated above it is always on the full mark and not over full!
So, since you can't drain your oil cooler lines would you guestimate the difference to be 4.39 - 4.25 =.14oz left in the cooler lines? I'm really surprised Trail Armor didn't provide access to the cooler line drains. :unsure:
 

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So, since you can't drain your oil cooler lines would you guestimate the difference to be 4.39 - 4.25 =.14oz left in the cooler lines? I'm really surprised Trail Armor didn't provide access to the cooler line drains. :unsure:
That’s hard to say because I drained them on the 20 hr service before installing skids. 14oz sure didn’t come out at that time. 4.25 is just what it takes for me under those circumstances to be right on full.
The holes could easily be cut out to accommodate the drain plugs. They also only provided one oil pan hole. I had to cut a hole for the second drain myself with a hole saw. Mine were among the first produced and Therebel made mention of the problem to them when his was at their shop. I think they fixed the oil pan hole issue but I’m not sure about the cooler lines.
Either way it’s a choice I’m comfortable with given the very small amount of oil that drains out the cooler lines. They also feel fragile when you are torquing the plugs back down. I worry about striping one or bending the line. I personally don’t want to invite the problem!
 

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I honestly don't remember if they added them or not when they had mine. I'll have to crawl under and check the next time I change the oil but personally I won't be draining the lines. Seems like something I would strip or bend. A good filter and recommended oil change intervals should be good enough in my book. However if something were to come apart, then it would be good to be able to flush the lines but a new cooler and/or lines would probably be needed then.
 

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First oil change on RMAX2: Oil drained:
Tank: 82oz.
Engine: 44oz.
Cooler lines: 6oz.
Filter: 4oz.
Total: 4.25 qt.

Refill:
2 Quarts in engine
2 Quarts in tank
After engine warm up and 10 minute wait, dipstick shows 1/4 inch below max. Good to go.
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This is typical of Yamaha engines. I’ve had 5 of them, all dry sump engines. On both of my previous forums for them, the rule of the day was to only put back the oil quantity that you removed. Yep, just measure it. And make sure it is right where you want to run it before you start this process.

I feel like the procedure to warm it, wait, check it, is adequate to be as accurate as you can, from experience with my previous Yamaha engines, the 1052CC MR-1, and the 1812CC HO. I’m glad the rmax 999CC doesn’t rev as high, lol. But I can tell you that I haven’t changed it in this 999CC yet, I only have 4 hours on the rmax! I plan to just put back what I take out, provided it is on the full
Mark when I start, and I’ll put the correct amount in the head and the rest in the tank. What I want to know is what tricks have you come up with to keep it clean?
 

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That’s hard to say because I drained them on the 20 hr service before installing skids. 14oz sure didn’t come out at that time. 4.25 is just what it takes for me under those circumstances to be right on full.
The holes could easily be cut out to accommodate the drain plugs. They also only provided one oil pan hole. I had to cut a hole for the second drain myself with a hole saw. Mine were among the first produced and Therebel made mention of the problem to them when his was at their shop. I think they fixed the oil pan hole issue but I’m not sure about the cooler lines.
Either way it’s a choice I’m comfortable with given the very small amount of oil that drains out the cooler lines. They also feel fragile when you are torquing the plugs back down. I worry about striping one or bending the line. I personally don’t want to invite the problem!
.14 quarts. Not oz. It comes out to about 4.5 oz. Seems close to me.

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Moderators, what’s going on here?
Post# 10 by this Chinaman is my same post in post #3!
Click on his signature and it takes you to another site?!?!
 
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Moderators, what’s going on here?
Post# 10 by this Chinaman is my same post in post #3!
Click on his signature and it takes you to another site?!?!
What are you talking about? I don't see anything! :p
 
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