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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2016 rspec eps. Was working on finishing my street legal kit, and getting ready to do an oil change. I checked the oil level, and it was low, looked closer and it appears to be leaking through the valve cover gasket, and the side engine cover right where the cap usually is, but according to the parts manual its a set of seals and a bearing. Anyone else have a similar issue?? Do you have to remove the bed to replace the valve cover gasket? Does anyone use yamabond to help seal them? Do you have to remove the fuel tank to replace the engine cover? I also noticed some recall's. I haven't received any information in the mail. I will have to get a hold of my local dealer to see if they have any know recalls. I was wondering, since I also have a cab coming in and was wondering If I will have to remove it down the road to do more work. Also, before I order a bunch of parts I thought I better get some more information. If it is the cap, most likely the oring went bad. I used to work at a yamaha dealer. So I am familiar with their reliability and set up. I also did purchase a service manual for it. I am looking to see if other are having similar problems and if they were easy fixes...
 

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To do anything of significance to the engine (708), the bed has to be removed. Spark plug change is about the only service not requiring it although snug can be done. I tried and with the right socket and ratch its can be done.

There is an oil burning TSB covered and if not done may repair the issue. That would be if the dealer gets the green light to order the kit and do the top end rebuild.

I use Rotella T6 oil for its long life and protection myself. I only used Yamalube when breaking in was required.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Update, looked at it and the valve cover and timing caps seem to be seeping oil. Not sure if it is burning oil. Usually ride by myself. Will contact my local dealer about 2 hours away and see what they say.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
To do anything of significance to the engine (708), the bed has to be removed. Spark plug change is about the only service not requiring it although snug can be done. I tried and with the right socket and ratch its can be done.

There is an oil burning TSB covered and if not done may repair the issue. That would be if the dealer gets the green light to order the kit and do the top end rebuild.

I use Rotella T6 oil for its long life and protection myself. I only used Yamalube when breaking in was required.
I was wondering about that so once the cab is installed, and if I need to do any major engine work, everything has to come back off. That will aid in making descisions on my wiring. I currently use yamalube.
 

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Facts are important. Mileage, original owner or not, usage etc all help assess the problem, possible cause and or repair. Its tough when we don't have eyes on it though.
 

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Update, looked at it and the valve cover and timing caps seem to be seeping oil. Not sure if it is burning oil. Usually ride by myself. Will contact my local dealer about 2 hours away and see what they say.
He'd have to see it I am sure. Photos would help him if you can get good photos for their mechanic. Sounds like it all at the engine top. I think this is the first for this kinda problem. Maybe oil is originating somewhere else. Just a guess.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Facts are important. Mileage, original owner or not, usage etc all help assess the problem, possible cause and or repair. Its tough when we don't have eyes on it though.
Original owner, has 5250 miles on it. I mainly use it for riding in the mountains. from low speeds to higher speeds depending on the trail, road or two track I am driving on. So far, I see oil seepage around the valve cover gasket and the timing caps on the engine cover. I was getting ready to change oil and the oil was way low. last few times I checked it before the change it was right on the mark. I don't know if it seeped out that much or is starting to use the oil. Some day's I could be up to 200 miles a day and other days 20 or 30. Right now I am looking at replacing the valve cover gasket and the two orings. But, looking closely the breather on top of the cover appears to have some oil on it, so I am not sure whether to change those gaskets also...
 

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I wouldn't touch anything or change. Have the dealer assess it and indicate is was low on oil. These engines don't like going below the add mark. FYI, the dipstick was changed in the 2016 to different level indicators because of that. Maybe a top end rebuild will be called for by the dealer.

good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I wouldn't touch anything or change. Have the dealer assess it and indicate is was low on oil. These engines don't like going below the add mark. FYI, the dipstick was changed in the 2016 to different level indicators because of that. Maybe a top end rebuild will be called for by the dealer.

good luck.
The problem is the nearest dealer is about a 2 hour drive away. which makes it hard to bring it in.
 

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Its an hour to my dealer here and others much further. Powersport dealers are rarely close to most owner. You got to do what you have to if you want their help.
 

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I would bet that with the vast amount of units affected with the oil consumption issue, that the seep you see is only a drop in the bucket and the real issue is that it’s drinking oil.

My gasket seeped a little just like yours did but it wasn’t the problem. I had the TSB performed at 5000 miles.

I wouldn’t get in a hurry to change the gasket until you find out if it needs the top end done. If it does all those parts will be replaced in the process anyway!
 
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Wet around any seal is usually quite nominal and not really measurable in level. It is quite common in auto engines to be wet in various areas but the oil is not flowing out just wet.

As must as I resist. I have to agree with what has be stated by Budro. However, I believe you're in dire need of the Top End rebuild to rectify the engine oil loss. Focus on getting that done and I believe you'll be ok.
 
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You can get your hand up on top of the motor when cold and use a small ratchet (or ratchet wrench) with a 10mm (maybe 8mm?) socket to tighten the four caps that hold the valve cover on. I would recommend you try that and use some brake cleaner to clean top of engine and see if that helps. They are soft O-rings that compress and get hard over time and subject to leakage. Ride a little and see about oil usage.
However with that many miles on the unit if you are going to replace the gasket and seals be sure to check the valve clearances. You can do that. If they need adjusting and you are not comfortable with removing cams and retiming cams then take it to dealer. There is also a decompression spring that needs replacing that dealer will do for you by TSB and it requires them to take it all apart so with a valve adjustment at same time that should save you some money unless the dealer is unscrupulous. They should include new gaskets or at most charge for the part only. A good time to do new valve seals... ask for a price before they perform. If they say they cannot do without a head removal then take it to another dealer as they are not very good mechanics or getting ready to put the screws to you.
The early TSB mentioned was also for a new oil dipstick so if that wasn't done, when you say oil was low, then it was VERY low.
 

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I asked about checking/replacing valve seals when I took mine in for the Top End Rebuild by Yamaha. They said it was a lot of extra work and would be quite expensive as its not related.

I declined and just went with what was specified. I don't have any oil issue now or indication of a seal issue. My machine doesn't sit around wait for vermin to move in which may make a difference. From what I have seen the majority are of 2016 build, few 2017 were logged here. They could have been using older engines than later for that year. Who knows but overall 2017 seems pretty good a few not used I read blew after a new buyer actual got it out and drove on a trail ride.
 
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I did a little more thinking on this.... if you are the Original Owner and have never moved then I would call Yamaha and report the selling dealer for the lack of registration/notification on the TSB business for the two original things that were not problem related but required to avoid problems. My $.02
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
You can get your hand up on top of the motor when cold and use a small ratchet (or ratchet wrench) with a 10mm (maybe 8mm?) socket to tighten the four caps that hold the valve cover on. I would recommend you try that and use some brake cleaner to clean top of engine and see if that helps. They are soft O-rings that compress and get hard over time and subject to leakage. Ride a little and see about oil usage.
However with that many miles on the unit if you are going to replace the gasket and seals be sure to check the valve clearances. You can do that. If they need adjusting and you are not comfortable with removing cams and retiming cams then take it to dealer. There is also a decompression spring that needs replacing that dealer will do for you by TSB and it requires them to take it all apart so with a valve adjustment at same time that should save you some money unless the dealer is unscrupulous. They should include new gaskets or at most charge for the part only. A good time to do new valve seals... ask for a price before they perform. If they say they cannot do without a head removal then take it to another dealer as they are not very good mechanics or getting ready to put the screws to you.
The early TSB mentioned was also for a new oil dipstick so if that wasn't done, when you say oil was low, then it was VERY low.
My current plan is to run it and see if it's still using oil. I noticed the breather by the exhaust had baked on oil and oil around the drive shaft. I cleaned it up pretty good and going to see if I can see all the oil leaks. I checked the rear diff and it only took a little oil. I orginally was going to replace the gasket, but after looking closer, the leak from the gasket is pretty small compared to the oil loss. If I decide to replace the gasket, I will check the valve clearance. Hopefully it will not need adjustment. I currently don't have shims on hand.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
The TSB that requires a top end, where does it get blowby, I assume the piston and cylinder, in which I could do a leakdown test and see how much I have. I am not sure what a dealer does to verify for the TSB to do the top end. If they are not paying for a top end, I would do it myself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I did a little more thinking on this.... if you are the Original Owner and have never moved then I would call Yamaha and report the selling dealer for the lack of registration/notification on the TSB business for the two original things that were not problem related but required to avoid problems. My $.02
Just thinking, I did move. Maybe I will have to visit the yamaha website and see if there is any information out about it.
 
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