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Discussion Starter #1
After installing the 2" Perfex lift I noticed my steering either pulls left or right, the machine does not want to track straight.

It is most noticeable on pavement or hard surfaces. I think I may remove it.
 

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I didn't have that issue at all. Maybe double check your alignment?

If it had messed up my steering, I would certainly be considering removing it too. That said,the lift has had many favorable reviews. So there is potentially something else at play here.

I know installing the lift, typically shouldn't change your alignment at all, but you are monkeying with suspension etc, so there is potential.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
only about 1000 kms on it, no abuse. It was fine before I put the kit on, check air pressure, all tires equal.

I know on many truck lift kits, you get a long steering arm.
 

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No steering issues after Perfex lift noted.
 

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I’ve noticed nothing different with mine. Hopefully one of the technical guys will weigh in


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I've had mine for a while now with no issues.
 

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heck I don't have a lift and I am constantly having issues with pulling one way or the other. at this point im wondering if the brakes are releasing completely. i hit the brakes hard a couple days ago in the woods and i didn't have a good grip on the wheel an it yanked the wheel so hard to the rt the buggy slid sideways.
 

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If the alignment is toe-out too far the steering will fight to each side as it darts back and forth trying to correct. When one side is straight and trying to track, then a rut or slope will shove the other side back in line, etc, etc, etc. Alignment is the place to start, a 1/8" to 3/16" toe-in is what I do, but IIRC the manual calls for more. Needs to be adjusted with wheels on the ground, sometimes a couple sheets of cardboard on a concrete floor under each wheel will help tires move depending on your technique and there are several different ways to align. After string-lining (w/jack stands) one side off frame and adjusting that side front tire, I will get a buddy and use two straight edges on front tires and measure front and back of the front wheel/tire until I have it where I want it. My $.02, please let us know final determination.
I would like to add that the lift can magnify your frame geometry if it was different. I would encourage you to check the front and rear heights of frame above floor and adjust to get them equal. That is the best handling attitude position for the unit. After height adjustment it may help if it was off. But then I would still encourage an alignment.
 
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When u lift the front end it toes in so u haft to toe back out . The wolvy comes from factory with a lower ride hight in the front and higher ride night in the rear this is called rake wich gives a better handling geometry.
 

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I believe the Wolv 'rake' is probably OEM setup just a result of maximizing the travel of the shocks and anticipated heavy loads in bed. Which is probably a best initial generic setup for this litigious society. However, I would respectfully submit that when you think of how the center of gravity reacts to a vehicle in motion with dips and bumps and how that affects the change of direction of the mass, then I want to keep it about level and balanced side to side to react to the forces encountered. I could not find that the OEM manual addresses this matter. But I did find in the Fox Shock manual for their upgrade shocks that they say in print, the shocks should be preload adjusted so that "the FRONT should always be 1/2" to 1" higher than the REAR". (that's not exact wording but close-should have cut and pasted it lol). My nephew is an atv racer and has a racing shock business and that is the way he has taught me to setup my machines. Even though we Wolvs typically don't come close to racing stresses, cutting a 20 mph path down a wooded, rutted, bumpy trail makes me want all the advantage I can get. I would encourage all to test different configurations and adjust to what your riding style and load carrying configurations are. (btw- the Fox Manual has some good primer and glossary on what the compression and rebound adjustments can do for anyone interested)
 
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I believe the Wolv 'rake' is probably OEM setup just a result of maximizing the travel of the shocks and anticipated heavy loads in bed. Which is probably a best initial generic setup for this litigious society. However, I would respectfully submit that when you think of how the center of gravity reacts to a vehicle in motion with dips and bumps and how that affects the change of direction of the mass, then I want to keep it about level and balanced side to side to react to the forces encountered. I could not find that the OEM manual addresses this matter. But I did find in the Fox Shock manual for their upgrade shocks that they say in print, the shocks should be preload adjusted so that "the FRONT should always be 1/2" to 1" higher than the REAR". (that's not exact wording but close-should have cut and pasted it lol). My nephew is an atv racer and has a racing shock business and that is the way he has taught me to setup my machines. Even though we Wolvs typically don't come close to racing stresses, cutting a 20 mph path down a wooded, rutted, bumpy trail makes me want all the advantage I can get. I would encourage all to test different configurations and adjust to what your riding style and load carrying configurations are. (btw- the Fox Manual has some good primer and glossary on what the compression and rebound adjustments can do for anyone interested)
Good info here thanks! I noticed that my rear was higher than the front, and wondered about that. I may do some testing and lower the rear some like your suggesting. I have noticed a difference in the way the front and rear react to bumps and ruts but haven’t messed with anything yet.


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(btw- the Fox Manual has some good primer and glossary on what the compression and rebound adjustments can do for anyone interested)
Thanks for that info jim, where would one find this fox manual, sounds like interesting reading.

thanks.
 

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Just went to the 'Fox Shocks' site and I believe I found it under 'Support' for the 2.0 QS-3 that is the Wolv upgrade shock they have IIRC
 

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Sorry to open an old thread... But, I just got my lift installed and also am noticing a "darting" feeling when turning on blacktop that didn't exist before the lift. I had always thought my machine had quite a visible negative camber. Now, with the lift on, the camber seems to be pretty neutral. I don't believe camber can be adjusted anyway...

Is there something to the Toe being changed with the lift that I should look at then?
 

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After installing the 2" Perfex lift I noticed my steering either pulls left or right, the machine does not want to track straight.

It is most noticeable on pavement or hard surfaces. I think I may remove it.

Your alignment was probably off before installation, now it's just more noticeable. Mine runs fine, never had any issues.
 
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Sorry to open an old thread... But, I just got my lift installed and also am noticing a "darting" feeling when turning on blacktop that didn't exist before the lift. I had always thought my machine had quite a visible negative camber. Now, with the lift on, the camber seems to be pretty neutral. I don't believe camber can be adjusted anyway...

Is there something to the Toe being changed with the lift that I should look at then?
Yes. It's probably toed in after the lift.
 
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