Good info here thanks! I noticed that my rear was higher than the front, and wondered about that. I may do some testing and lower the rear some like your suggesting. I have noticed a difference in the way the front and rear react to bumps and ruts but haven’t messed with anything yet.I believe the Wolv 'rake' is probably OEM setup just a result of maximizing the travel of the shocks and anticipated heavy loads in bed. Which is probably a best initial generic setup for this litigious society. However, I would respectfully submit that when you think of how the center of gravity reacts to a vehicle in motion with dips and bumps and how that affects the change of direction of the mass, then I want to keep it about level and balanced side to side to react to the forces encountered. I could not find that the OEM manual addresses this matter. But I did find in the Fox Shock manual for their upgrade shocks that they say in print, the shocks should be preload adjusted so that "the FRONT should always be 1/2" to 1" higher than the REAR". (that's not exact wording but close-should have cut and pasted it lol). My nephew is an atv racer and has a racing shock business and that is the way he has taught me to setup my machines. Even though we Wolvs typically don't come close to racing stresses, cutting a 20 mph path down a wooded, rutted, bumpy trail makes me want all the advantage I can get. I would encourage all to test different configurations and adjust to what your riding style and load carrying configurations are. (btw- the Fox Manual has some good primer and glossary on what the compression and rebound adjustments can do for anyone interested)
Thanks for that info jim, where would one find this fox manual, sounds like interesting reading.(btw- the Fox Manual has some good primer and glossary on what the compression and rebound adjustments can do for anyone interested)
After installing the 2" Perfex lift I noticed my steering either pulls left or right, the machine does not want to track straight.
It is most noticeable on pavement or hard surfaces. I think I may remove it.
Yes. It's probably toed in after the lift.Sorry to open an old thread... But, I just got my lift installed and also am noticing a "darting" feeling when turning on blacktop that didn't exist before the lift. I had always thought my machine had quite a visible negative camber. Now, with the lift on, the camber seems to be pretty neutral. I don't believe camber can be adjusted anyway...
Is there something to the Toe being changed with the lift that I should look at then?